Eintrag |
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Kwiamble National Park
Lots of great quality scultped river granite |
MacIntyre Falls
This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park |
MacIntyre Falls |
Above The Falls
This area is quite simply just across the river above the top of the main falls at McIntyre Falls themselves. There is bouldering around the river and up the hill in the bush. The climbing here is some of the best in the gorge. |
MacIntyre Falls Above The Falls |
50m above the main waterfall, in the gorge itself.
50m above the main waterfall, in the gorge itself. |
Unknown crack
A great looking easy crack |
18
Pray For Rain
Rap in off top FH or scramble down. There is a FH for belay at the base. Four FH’s on polished moon rock. |
unknowncurvy arete |
Unknown face next to crack |
On the far side of the gorge above the falls is an impressive featured boulder. 15m behind 'Pray for
On the far side of the gorge above the falls is an impressive featured boulder. 15m behind 'Pray for Rain'. |
V6
★★ What-a-problem!
The highball mega problem, trend up left on pockets |
V4
★★★ Jug traverse
Start far left on jug, the obvious traverse right through slopers back to juggy. |
V4
★ Undercling finish
From the big jugs head directly up, through the underclings and bulge |
V3
★★ Slab finish
Up from jugs, then trend right around the rooflet and up the slab |
Slot reach
The ultimate 1 move ape factor problem. Start matched on big slot, massively long move out to the lip. Over water. With no real feet holds. |
Morning Glory |
Cardiac Arete |
unknown between two boulders |
MacIntyre Falls |
Falls Walls
Routes either side of MacIntyre Falls. If the river is up a packraft is handy for getting across either well above, or below the falls. |
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls |
Falls River Left
The routes on river left of the final drop of the falls and immediately down stream |
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Falls River Left |
23
★★ Clean Slate
Start on a small pedestal on the left near the falls then up seam to traverse 2m right on polished slab then up on edges. Could be a bold DWS if conditions were right. |
20
Medium Density
Best to abseil in from large flat ledge to small pedestal. Offwidth from #4 to #6 and some narrow hand sized cams for the middle. |
17
★ Spiral Cyclone
Abseil to sloping ledge right of the line under roof to belay from micro cams, small wires. Step left into V groove and up |
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls |
Wilde Wall
Cliffs just river right = climbers left of the falls. Topo: http://upskillclimbing.blogspot.com.au/2008/01/climbing-report-macintyre-falls.html |
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Wilde Wall |
24
★★ Wilde slab
The left hand route, facing downstream on large boulder below falls. Lowest bolt has been flattened a little. Start up V groove and sharp flake to slab, and on to top, traverse right to shared anchor |
22
★★ Link it Up
If the slab is proving too slippery, do the start to second bolt, and then finish up arete. The start may prove harder if reach is an issue |
21
★★ Wilde Arete
Cracked flakes to right of arete to first bolt, following arete to anchor |
15
★★★ Corn flakes
Located to the left of crack it up and wide wall, it’s a good flake climb and gets harder on getting to the top. 2 bolts at top with quick links to descend. |
10
★★ Crack it Up
Hand crack 2m to left of Wilde Wall. Move right to single bolt to belay, back up possible with trad gear. |
20
★★ Wilde wall
Centre route on downstream facing wall to single bolt anchor over top. A few tricky mantles. Accessible from top. |
23
★★ Wilde layback
1m right of Wilde wall. Looks equipped with single bolt for top rope directional. Fiddly gear available below this. |
25
Wilde seam
Route up seam on tier above Wilde wall. Some razor sharp crimps. DBB on slab above. |
22
★★★ Iguazu
Starts 2m R of Wilde Seam on upper tier at thin finger crack. Head left to DBB on slab |
19
★ Nell Falls
Offwidth and tight V chimney 1 m right of Iguazu past golden fin of rock. Head to DBB to left up slab |
14
★ Niagara falls
Starts down right of NF up twin cracks past small tree, continue across slab left to anchor |
16
★★ White water Dreaming
Starts above pool, to left of falls, 5 m right and down from Niagara on the right hand side of a pyramid of rock. Up slabby seam under roof, stepping right into right facing corner with hand crack, then up slab to top of block. Belay possible with large ( #5/6 cams) on other side of summit block. |
★★★ Cornflakes
This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park |
MacIntyre Falls |
Rock pool and the Beach
This is the main jumble of boulders below the falls extending down to the next kink in the gorge which is known as the beach. at McIntyre Falls, just below The Beach on the opposite side of the river. Masses of stuff in this labyrinth of boulders. |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Big track boulders |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Big track boulders |
V0
★ Slab
Easy slab |
★★ Brittle nose
Sit start, up then through bulging nose |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Steps boulder
This is immediately in front of you about 10m after the last cement steps. |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Steps boulder |
V2
★★ Welcome mat
A great crimpy problem up the left side |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Deep in the jumble
About 15m right of the 'Steps boulder' in the middle of the jumble is a balanced block with a large shrub behind it. |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Deep in the jumble |
V2
★ Jumble sale
Sit start through ledge to nose |
★ Pinch arete
Start on the arete and directly up |
Jungle in the rumble
A much harder line starting lower down |
V1
★ Smearail
Squat start and work up the slopey rail |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
The waterfront boulder
This quality bloc with lots of hard problems is directly across the boulder field from the cement stairs and right next to the large swimming hole. It will yield a lot of hard variants and eliminates. http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Beach_Bouldering_60513.html |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach The waterfront boulder |
V0
★ Warmup
Start on good holds then up onto the left face |
V2
★★ Avoidance
Diagonally up though and mantle |
Hard rail
Nails looking rail and top out |
V2
★★ Jump start
Jump start then campus right and top out |
V5
★★ Crimping iron
Up the right side of the arete |
V0
Lowball
Name says it all! |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Water arrow block
On the far side of the rock jumble as the base of the far wall is a nose feature protruding over the creek. It has 3 distinctive radiating lines forming a large arrow pointing left. It may not be climbable at normal water levels. |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Water arrow block |
V3
★★★ The arrow of time
Sit start and then head left along the shaft of the arrow and delicately mantle. |
V3
★★★ Water arrow
Sit start up interesting sidepulls |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Dark Hueco
This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Dark Hueco |
Dirty rotten scoundrel
Up rail. Needs more cleaning |
V2
★ Dirty dancing
Through round undercling up to stepped jugs |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
The Beach area
A cluster of large featured boulders mostly with good falls onto sand situated at the corner of the gorge. |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach The Beach area |
The Cathedral and the Bazaar |
The Cathedral
A series of rails inside the gable roof |
V5
★★★ The Bazaar
A fantastic mantle problem reminiscent of fontainbleau |
Sand groper boulder |
V3
★★★ Sand groper
A big throw of good side pull |
V3
Sand mantle
Various mantles |
VB
★ Top rails
Fun little top out from the slab |
Fig boulder |
V0
★ Fig crack
SDS in the obvious crack with a fig growing through it |
V1
★ Fig slab
Stand start up the sloper rail |
V2
★★ Blunt approach
SDS on great rail then up right |
Deep water fig
The fig crack extends right through the bolder to the other side |
Water cracker boulder |
Water cracker project
Up the thin finger crack over the water |
Wasp groove boulder |
VB
★ Wasp groove
A fun highball slab |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach |
Rockpool Wall
The 20-40m high walls river left of the Rockpool |
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Rockpool Wall |
20
★ V groove to finger crack
Best to abseil in to large sloping ledge just downstream of large fig. Starts off ledge through small fig at base of v groove with hand crack at back. Continues as finger crack. |
12
★ The Gullet
The inset corner inside the deep trench half way along Rockpool. A canyoning experience. Abseil down trench to water level and climb out with horizontal chimney moves to finish. Tree belay. |
Potential thin line
A Watercraft maybe needed to cross the river in higher water. Some routes are abseil in ( or belay from raft) |
23
Harry the Skunk
The golden downstream facing steep corner capped by a large roof. Originally done with one aid at roof and later freed. |
24
★★★ Gunboat Diplomacy Direct Start
Start 20m right of HTS. Hard moves to get established in the obvious dihedral, lead directly into Gun Boat Diplomacy |
22
★★★ Gunboat Diplomacy
Reportedly one of the best one pitch routes in New England at the time. Right of the obvious low dihedral, 20m R of HTS. Start on the R side of the arete, moving up and left into the prominent finger and hand crack system, leading to an exciting finish. The two carrot bolts were added after the first ascent. Tree belay. |
23
★ Gunboat arete
After the first carrot on GD continue up the arete on FHs and a finger and hand sized cam. Tree belay |
24
★★★ Border Patrol
Middle of face left of ETL, through roof to narrow finger crack. Join Gunboat Arete at its last bolt to top out. Finger sized gear and a #1 cam. |
20
★★ Eddie the Laybacker
The corner right of Gunboat Arete. Possible to step right onto ledge and DBB, 3m below the top. |
24
★★ Skeeta
Left of the HR start is a thin seam to 2/3 height then 3 FHs to the DBB over ETL. Lots of RPs and microcams |
21
Haymarket riot
The corner left of Shapeshifter |
20
Shapeshifter LH finish
Start up Shapeshifter and take the thin left-leaning crack to finish |
20
Shapeshifter
Steep cracked face, finishing directly up the RH crack |
Old pro
Face climb facing downstream, R of Shapeshifter, faded tag on first bolt. |
MacIntyre Falls |
Middle gorge
This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park |
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge |
Shark fin soup bowl |
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge Shark fin soup bowl |
V2
★★ Baby shark
Doo doo doo doo doo doo it |
Run away
This is inside Kwiambal National Park, more details here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/kwiambal-national-park |
V1
★★ Gill slits
Easy moves through polished fractured rock |
V3
★★★ Caudal fin
Classic highball arete |
V3
★★★ Caudal direct
One hold then technical smearing to link into the arete |
V1
★★ The first dorsal
Left along the fin to the chip then mantle and to top |