Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
19 | ★★ Copper Top
5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues. Erstbegehung: Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2005 | 22m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Ginger and Treacle
1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe? Erstbegehung: Lee Cujes & Gareth Llewellin, 1999 | 23m, 5 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
19 | ★★ Sceptre
A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance. Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).
Erstbegehung: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 95m, 2 | |||
19 | Texas Chainsaw Massacre
Start: Directly up from broken stump.
Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008 Erstbegehung: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2) | 25m, 2, 18 | |||
19 | ★★ Texas Chainsaw Massacre (p2)
| 45m, 15 | |||
19 | ★★ Slip
One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before. Erstbegehung: Ken Cox | 23m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Fantastic
Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux. Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence
Erstbegehung: Est. by Pete Schmidt. FFA Darrin Carter & Sean Smith Erstbegehung: Darrin Carter/Sean Smith | 75m, 3 | |||
19 | I'll Be Bach
A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge. Erstbegehung: Ingo the Dingo | 35m | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall) | |||||
19 | ★★ Cloud Catcher
Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.
Erstbegehung: Phil Box, Brad Carmady & Josh Combes, 2006 | 250m | |||
Northern Rivers Old Lismore Quarry | |||||
{US} AU:19 | ★ Ohm
| 12m | |||
19 | LT Direct
| 12m | |||
Northern Rivers Lillian Rock Hanging Rock Falls | |||||
V1 | ★★ Hanging Arete | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks | |||||
V1 | Breaking Rock
Sit start on jugs and continue straight up and top out. Careful of breaking rock Erstbegehung: Ben Send | 3m | |||
V1 | Pinkies traverse
Start as far right as possible and traverse left untill you hit the start of Dumb Decisions Erstbegehung: Ben Send | ||||
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock | |||||
19 | ★★ epic deception
dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side... Erste freie Begeh.: john, 2000 | 150m, 4, 12 | |||
19 | ★ peace tower
like climbing a 12m fridge, fun | 12m, 4 | |||
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||||
V1 | Asshole in the Middle of your Back
Up the right corner, with fun bridging off a finger sized crack. Deadpoint the jug and top out toward the left. Start: While facing 'Bunny Nuggets', turn around and walk into the gully to the left. The right most corner before the short slab. Erstbegehung: Dan Roe, 2008 | ||||
V1 | Bunny Nuggets
Sit start at the base of obvious crack. Erstbegehung: Dan Roe?, 2008 | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
19 | moonlight drive
10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out. | 23m, 2 | |||
V1 | ★ Fish guts arête
Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder. Erstbegehung: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021 | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
V1 | ★★ A4
From shield follow twin hourglass cracks to large rails in centre of steep face, up to find pockets ontop. | ||||
V1 | ★ A6
Thrutchy wide corner crack. | ||||
V1 | ★★ A12.
| ||||
V1 | ★ A13.
Standing start, smear and slap. | ||||
V1 | Behave you bastards
On same boulder as A15. Squat start on horizontal crack. Toe hook to mantle top out. Erstbegehung: Jeff G | 2m | |||
V1 | Ya dickhead
Sit start. From crimpy horizontal ledge on overhang to crimpy flake above. Mantle to top out. Adjacent boulder is out. Erstbegehung: artie G | 2m | |||
V1 | B2
Middle of face | ||||
V1 | B3
Blunt arete. | ||||
V1 | B6
Avoid small block on right at feet, bad landing. | ||||
V1 | ★ Slabs on toast
Balancie.. moving right wards up the face Erstbegehung: Krishna | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Direct left
Avoiding the cracks on both side and moving straight up from the jug into the thin side pull and to the horizontal break at the top of the wall. Fun Erstbegehung: Krishna | 3m | |||
V1 | Egg nostril
On the left face Erstbegehung: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ C2
Will need a good spot! | ||||
V1 | ★★ C3
Highball. Layaway large suspect looking hanging block to jugs and a reach to top, then victory pocket. | ||||
V1 | ★ C5
Start on sharp block in corner, up left face with some bridging for feet. | ||||
V1 | ★ C6
Small arete, some loose rock in corner at top. | ||||
V1 | F4
| ||||
V1 | G4
From crack up jugs, straight up. | ||||
V1 | J1
Layaway | ||||
V1 | J7
Jam | ||||
V1 | ★ J8
| ||||
V1 | J10
| ||||
V1 | J20
| ||||
Northern Rivers Joggly point cave | |||||
V1 | ★ Wet Blanket
| ||||
V1/2 | Lost at Sea
| ||||
V1 | Slippery Mitch
| ||||
Northern Rivers Turners beach | |||||
V1 | Over the crabs
Sit start on the left of the face, on the crimpy bubbly ledge. Make your way to the right and top out Erstbegehung: Pierrix, 21 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island Sandy Corner Sandy Caves | |||||
18/19 | ★ Hole in One
Starts on small ledge, lay away left edge of cave to travel right through large window cave/ tube to lower off on other side of hole. | 8m | |||
18/19 | Holey Moley
Up 'H.I.O' then traverse right under roof (not through hole) to join 'B' then up outside to shared lower off of all three climbs. | 9m | |||
18/19 | Birdy
Up orange rock from small ledge on outside of cave to finish at shared anchor on edge of hole. | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
19 | ★★ The Dark Knight
Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face. | 12m, 4 | |||
19 | Close Encounters
Up left yellow wall. | 8m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog | |||||
19 | Adder
5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay. Erste freie Begeh.: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 20m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room | |||||
19 | ★ Spanking Monkeys
Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear. Erstbegehung: J. Langston, 1997 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove | |||||
19 | ★ House of Cards
Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof. Erstbegehung: S Hawkshaw, 2011 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot
1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM. Erstbegehung: Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel, 2001 | 12m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Yosemite Action Hero
The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'. Erste freie Begeh.: Arthur Schultz, 2011 | 6m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Super Grover
A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree. Erste freie Begeh.: Brian Cork, 2011 | 18m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ The Slippery Truth
wall just left of offwidth Erste freie Begeh.: Toby Holmes, 2012 | 15m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Streaked Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Mickey G's
Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF. Erstbegehung: Stephen Hawkshaw, 12 Jul 2014 | 15m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Deliverance Area | |||||
19 | ★★ Sanction of the Victim
Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains Erstbegehung: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011 | 32m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
19 | ★★ Revisionist History
Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors | 18m | |||
19 | ★★★ The Wrong Lime
The fantastic looking crack system seen overhead to the right during approach to the crag, starting in gully off to the right. Scramble down from main crag or alternate approach from main access trail by heading right along base cliff before the fixed roped section. Mantle daintily onto first ledge, place first good gear at back of rooflette then pull bouldery move up and into main crack system. Great protection the whole way. Erstbegehung: rob, 20 Apr 2023 | 20m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Hide and Seek Wall | |||||
19 | Tinker Bells Big Brother
Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains. Erste freie Begeh.: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 Erstbegehung: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012 | 20m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Never Never Dead Mans Cave Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Hydra
The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge. Erstbegehung: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2002 Erste freie Begeh.: 2002 | 30m, 3 | |||
19 | Hydra's Head
Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural. Erstbegehung: Joe Truban & Marc Bailey, 2003 | 17m | |||
19 | ★★ Tinker Bell Direct
As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb. Erstbegehung: Peter Higgs | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Angelina Jollies Jublies
Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR. Erstbegehung: Brice Milne & Marc Bailey, 2003 | 25m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
19 | ★ Deceiving Decisions
Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989 | 8m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Phantom Cockroaches
In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam. Erstbegehung: G. Dean, L. Dixon & Dave ?, 1989 | 8m, 1 | |||
19 | Ballroom Blitz
"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!) Erstbegehung: Al Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon & Neil Crabb, 1988 | 8m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Planet Earth
A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts. Erstbegehung: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988 | 8m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Steamy Windows
This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess" (an obvious, square alcove). 5m left of the "Shower Recess". Tricky off the ground. Up through bulge past a bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 bolts and a 2 bolt belay. Erstbegehung: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1990 | 8m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Wedding Cake Island
2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ I Don't Mind
Named in honor of the great Bob Geldoff. The wall/arete on the far side of the Gazebo that steepens near the top. Avoid the heat of the afternoon. Great. Erstbegehung: A. Stephens & G Dean, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
19 | delete
. | 2 | |||
19 | ★ delete
| 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | |||||
19 | ★★ Exit Right Pursued By Bear
Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out Erstbegehung: Danny Rose | 8m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Denali And Sequoia
5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay Erstbegehung: Marty Scmidt | 8m | |||
19 | ★ Rolling thunder | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ The Scarlet Manuka
SDS. Up central, juggy arete. | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder | |||||
V1 | Blowgirl
SDS, a bit hard but too short to be worth it. | 2m | |||
V1 | Slabblown
Back side of the boulder, couple of techy slab moves. | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Low Boy Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Low Blow
SDS just right of corner. Up to jugs and mantle | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall | |||||
V1 | Footrot
Right side of slab, left of chimney | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress | |||||
V1 | ★ Clucky
Highball face right of crack. Erstbegehung: Travis, 21 Jan 2015 | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove | |||||
V1 | ★ Block Head
Blocky face right of corner/chimney | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Lick My Greasy Crack
Highball, orange crack. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Fallen Figures
Highball arête. Not as hard as it looks, but a couple of scary moves near the top will get you thinking. Named to honour the loss of Marty and Denali Schmitt who passed away on K2 not long before the FA. Erstbegehung: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 6m | |||
V1 | Scared Frog
Highball corner crack Erste freie Begeh.: Brenton Owens, 2014 | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ HoCho
Orange face to roof | 6m | |||
V1 | Choccybiccy
Face to roof | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ Jam and Scream
Crack above small cave. A rare feature for the Glenreagh area... a crack that is easier to jam than use neighbouring face holds. | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones South Central | |||||
V1 | ★★ Face-scooped
Face to scoop Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz & Brian Cork, 2012 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Fed-ex
Face with letterbox slot, thus the name Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz & Brian Cork, 2012 | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Smoulder Boulders | |||||
V1 | ★★ Smoulder
SDS face/arete | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Jambalaya
SDS, up to good sidepull and long move to the top Erste freie Begeh.: Brian Cork & Artie Schultz, 2012 | ||||
V1 | ★ Skinless
SDS on angled rail, up to finish on massive horn Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz & Brian Cork, 2012 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jugville Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Gloria's Jeans
Low Traverse right to left. Erstbegehung: David Michael & Matt Miller, 2013 | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Skip's Highball | |||||
V1 | ★★ Skip's Highball
Start on left block, up into break below big roof, then over the lip to huge pocket and up wall above Erste freie Begeh.: Brendan Heywood | 5m |