Routen in Queensland für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Nice sit start to airy top out.

Directly below Overexposed (towards Welcome Boulders, maybe 15m) there is a highball. There is a diagonal crack line (trending up and right)The problem has room for a small boulder mat on a rocky ledge then there is a steep ramp and drop beyond that small space. Have a good spotter or 2. The problem is easy just mind the loose rock and big fall. Fun.

1 star - Sit start then straight up on good flat holds.

Stand start with high slopey holds. Up and left.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start way back in the cave on the low flat jug. 3D climb your way out and around using body and hand jamming to scramble up the boulder and out the top to glorious sunlight.

Sit start the right arete. Gaston/layaway to the top.

Deceptively difficult

Surprising thin face.

Sit start Rh on Sloper plate, Lh on low side pull.

Bridge and thrutch your way up the big chimney in the back of the fully. Then commit to an easy but very exposed mantle out to the right. Don't fall.

Up crack.

Stand start, straight up. Feet are small but there.

2 stars - Face problem on good crimps.

John Newby - 03.42

1 star - Easy slab moves tending left

Straight up the the left side of the face, with some holds from the left arete.

Sit start. From the big low ledge, rock over to get the underclings on the arete, and up to the top.

Stand start the scoop slab. If only it were longer!

Sit start matched in seam. Move up into sloper then yeet for topout jug.

As per Escape Artist but don't traverse, directly mantle.

Sit start, straight up through obvious crack

Up the steep wall and arête just right of the slab.

Up the middle or slightly right of the steepest, highest part of the wall on crimps.

Jump to start hold and mantle.

Sit start the sharp fang boulder.

Sit start on big crimps, and throw a big move to a ledge and up.

Same sit start as ‘Press Turtle’ but big move up.

3 stars - Up the obvious steep corner.

Tricky start up the arête onto the slab

From the start of Hot fudge Sundae, up and right to gain the small ledge in the middle of the face and mantle up

Slab on the left part of the face directly behind In Season. 3m left of No Fruit. Climbs the nice looking slab.

Slightly left of Morning O, Straight up.

Easier line up crack, tricky feet for the grade.

1 star - Up the right trending sloping lip to fun mantle.

Easy left trending arete

1. 20m (19) The crack directly right of the large overhang. A fun offwidth, protectable by mid sized gear at the back, quickly turns into a smorgasbord of hand-jams and finger-locks, with solid rock and bomber placements the whole way. Trad belay near small tree.

2. 30m (10) Squeeze through the chimney behind the overhang and then chimney up the right-hand side of the boulder to get back to the summit.

Sit start matched on the sidepull jug. Make some moves up the arete to mantle.

Stand start wide compression. Rh low on flat pinch jug. LH on obvious sidepull. Fun dynamic movement

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

As for Sanditos, but straight up the middle without using the big holds on the left or the obvious big footholds on the bottom and right.

Sit start Slip, Slop, Slap then move right following the obvious line topping out on Salt in the wound.

The off-width crack/ body chimney, try your best to only use the crack (almost impossible!). Too many features to avoid.

Start with both hands jammed in the crack. Move up and through the jugs to easy topout.

Sit start matched on the undercling. Move up, taking your time to set your soggy knuckle well before gaining the jugs to a slightly cramped mantle.

start L hand sloper, R hand rail. Go straight up to top out

Stant start Rh sloper, Lh on rail, pull up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start off the rock matched on the obvious jugs centre wall. Breaking out left with high heel rock over to gain ledge then top out.

Please be careful, a fall here could be quite nasty!

Low start on the jugs at the back of the hand crack. Jam or layback your way out and up to the top of the pedestal. Descend as for Gun Flayer, down the V0 slab on the right.

Stand stant with wide compression, tick tak to victory.

Sit start using the crack and right hand side pull. Work straight up the prominent seam to mantle top out.

Balancy start using lower portion of right hand arete and left hand sidepull. Surprisingly tricky topout mantle into the lantana.

Sit Start. Left hand on small horn, right hand on good sloper to the right. Straight up for a nerve-wracking top out. Do what you kneed to!

Sit start, both hands on obvious rail. Up to the side pull and away you go.

Start as for Inspiration but climb right directly across roof to Finish Jug

Star in small cave in front left corner of cave climbing to start of Inspiration

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

Start 2 metres to the right of Rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall with some insecure and reachy moves. Lower off.

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crack line. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Climb the blocky corner (originally done on natural gear) to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall. Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out. The chain is way back, recommend bringing up a second to clean and rap down.

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

Starting on little platform, up into awkward corner and sandy ear past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move.

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

Up the slab (RB) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above (be careful between 2nd and 3rd bolt). Up the lichenous face (RBs) to arrive at the headwall. There are two options here. If you climb the left line of bolts it is grade 19. If you climb the bolted corner (the right line of bolts at the top) you have climbed the 22 version. Rebolted.

Start: Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder.

A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed.

Start out left through powerful moves to delicate stance then continue up slab moves to top passing 3 RBs to shared anchor with Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites.

Traverse from Mystic Ways to Magic Days

Rune - Sit start

Rune - Sit start

World Tree - Sit start

Rune - Sit start

Squat start with hands compressing sidepulls. Set feet up and throw to rail then top out. Small chockstone under boulder is out and probably needs to be removed.

Start Main Squeeze then traverse right finishing up Protection Shoe.

Sit start on the tree root, straight up.

Squat/sit start with left hand on crimp, right hand on sloper on arete. Straight up with slightly technical climbing. Try not to dab on the tree stump to the left and boulder to the right.

Sit start on the slopy crimps, up the face on slopy holds to mantle. Arete is in

Try a contrived line eliminating the arete using only the face holds.

Walk up the slab using no hands.

Sit start at the off-width crack, grunt your way up and out.

Sit start Chicken Wings, but continue up the hand jam crack to top out.

Stand start L on large sidepull and R on undercling. Traverse left on great feet. finish hands on top of the wall (no need to top out)

Sit start two hands on jug. big move to crimp and top out directly above where you start

sit start on great crimp. climb up and to the right over the arete then top out

Sit Start on two hand crimp. climb up the wall. as you get close to the top move right to avoid bushes. end on top of wall.

squat start on two jugs. climb up so you are on top of boulder. seems easy enough right? Wrong! you can not touch any holds outside of two roots. this makes it very narrow and thus, very hard.

Sit start using sloper and side pull. Traverse slightly left and up the rail to top out.

Tsevi Leib

Sit start with left hand Gaston, right hand on crimp. Straight up to top out.

Stand start using the undercling, up the slab to a slopey mantle.

Stand start with right hand in the pocket, left hand on the crimp, straight up

Sit start on crimps. Balance up to small dyno to the rail or just reach up if you are tall. Mantle.

Located directly behind the Alchemy Boulder.

Oliver Rickford