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Ich stimme zu
For what it's worth, the crag lists these climbs out of order. This is the middle climb. From Left to Right (from Rod Young's 'Nowra Sportclimbing') : Weapons of Mass Destruction/ Old Timers Disease / World Gone Mad (left edge of cave)/ Yahoo / Zorro (this climb - right edge of cave / The Balrog / Shelob (starts around right arete). I'm waiting for permission to fix them, go ahead if you already have permissions and know how.
Fun start on this, but tricky after the middle ledge - where are the holds?
Checked afterwards - been 3 years since I've done this climb, and the first time I've lead it. I should have used my own beta to reach way left and climb from under the ledge, but managed to find a way to clip from the balancy right before committing. Fun finish round the side, good jug once you step up.
'Layback', to me, implies you've got something to push your feet against off to one side. This was more about campusing, maybe getting a heel hook to squeeze up and thrutch for a bit (Worm on a razor style - and I hate that climb), get back on the face and campus again. 18? Sandbagged. I suppose if you like all that campusing, go hard, but I won't be back...
Top rope not so comforting when it was tangled at the 2nd bolt - had to be a little bold in trusting slabby smearage. The crux of this climb is probably getting to the first bolt before you even cross from the boulder to the main wall.
No way this should be the same grade as the '18' Old Timer's beside it (unless I'm missing something). I'd more put this at 19 with that nothing smeary end, Old Timers maybe even 17.
No way this should be the same grade as the '18' weapons beside it (unless I'm missing something). I'd more put this at 17 and weapons (with that nothing smeary end) more like 19.
For my first outdoor lead Mitch thought Philosopher's Stone would be great because of its easy grade (12). Well, I jumped on and I certainly couldn't understand why I was getting spanked by such an easy climb ... until Mitch realised he'd put me onto Isengard by mistake. Classic stitchup.
