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Hinchinbrook Island Guide

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  • Fotos: 12
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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Luen Warneke Jarrah Jared Tyerman Nick Murphy OzFizzix Ken Thrash

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Hinchinbrook Island 10 routes in Area

Summary:
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F
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A
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Saisonalität

traditionelles Klettern und Deep Water Soloing

Lat / Long: -18.346014, 146.212616

Beschreibung

Hinchinbrook Island is a magical place for the outdoor enthusiasts. A rugged island with tall mountains, fragile heath, lush rainforest, eucalypt forests and mangrove fringes. Located about 8km off the Queensland coast from Cardwell and about 4km away from Lucinda. The main mountains are Mt Bowen (1,121m), The Thumb (981m), Mt Diamantina (955m), and Mt Straloch (922m). The popular trail is the Thorsborne Trail which goes 32km along the island's east coast.

Einschränkungen

Access via boat or kayak from Cardwell or Lucinda. You need a permit to stay overnight in Hinchinbrook Island National Park and a permit to bushwalk up to the remote mountain summits.

Zustieg

Cardwell -

Lucinda -

1.1. North Peak 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -18.343504, 146.265279

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Prophet

Open project. The Prophet is a small boulder on top of a larger one on the west side of North Peak.

TraditionellProjekt

1.2. The Thumb 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -18.360536, 146.277071

Beschreibung

Close to Mt Bowen is The Thumb at 981m, a protruding pinnacle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bushwalkers route

Scramble to summit

5 Traditionell 100m
2 NER TraditionellProjekt
3 Southeast ridge

Traverse out L

12 Traditionell
4 Finding your roots

Up tree roots to horizontal root (rest). Up bigger root to step out R to powerful move up to smaller root. Awkward mantle to delicate move to large tree belay.

Slings around roots for pro.

Erste freie Begeh.: Luen Warneke, 29 Mai 2019

18 Traditionell 13m

1.3. Diamantina Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -18.429284, 146.294635

Beschreibung

As described on https://wanderstories.space/mt-diamantina/

At the summit of Mt Diamantina is Diamantina Rock which is actually two large boulders with a big gap between them. That chimney would climbable if you are very tall with long arms and legs but I wouldn't recommend it as it's a little too wide. Don't expect to climb either of these without ropes and fall protection. In between these rocks are canisters with logbooks.

Zustieg

The hike in takes about 6+ hours for the very fit bushwalker.

Abstieg

Steps to descent the rock:

  1. Build an anchor at the top (e.g. cam and thread)

  2. One person then abseils on that anchor to the ground

  3. Then, the person still on the top of the boulder disassembles the top anchor keeping the rope at the top.

  4. The person at the bottom then proceeds to build an anchor at the base of the rock tying one end of the rope into the bottom anchor. There is a good boulder on the eastern side between the two rocks; thread/sling that boulder to create a bottom anchor.

  5. The person still on top coils and thorws the rope off the other side of the bottom to that of the bottom anchor.

  6. The top person then proceeds to abseil down off the other side of the rock to that of the bottom anchor. Be careful not the get the rope stuck in a terrain trap (e.g. v-groove).

  7. Then, once both people are safely on the ground, proceed to disassemble bottom anchor and pull rope.

Congratulations! You now have 'ghosted' Diamantia Rock.

Geschichte

Most people throw a rope across and prussic up. To Luen's knowledge, the smaller rock has only been climbed once before in the 1980s by a group from Ingham who used a tree which was growing close by but does not exist today.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

North Rock - Smaller Boulder

The smaller boulder is the easier route to climb and is well featured on the north side.

2 North Face VF

The same start as "North Face" but slightly harder for those who do not know how to crack climb and with a direct finish. Hand jam crack top the top. Has some pro at the top unlike "NF"; however it is vegetated.

Erste freie Begeh.:

16 Traditionell 15m
3 North Face

Middle of N face at the thin seam. Face and seam (crux) with small wire (#3 or 4) to ramp. Traverse 3m R past large wire (#8) and cams (red/green Camalot). Finish up the scooped weakness. Thread belay and large cams (blue Camalot) on top.

Erste freie Begeh.: Madoc Sheehan & Luen Warneke, Sep 2018

16 Traditionell 15m

South Rock - Larger Boulder

No gear and not very well featured but it may be possible to climb for the experienced climber. However, it would need to be bolted. I suggest using Petzl Coeur Pulses to limit the eyesore for bushwalkers.

1.4. Straloch Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Hillock Point 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Alle Deep Water Soloing

Lat / Long: -18.419681, 146.356673

Übersicht

Some good deep water soloing lines and slabbed trad climbing.

Einschränkungen

Access via boat only.

1.5.1. Diamond Eyes 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -18.420797, 146.357375

Übersicht

Small cove at Southern end of the rocky outcrop with a few DWS problems.

Einschränkungen

Boat access

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Digital Bath

Start up prominent easy arete, step out left onto face and then attack the steep crux section about 10m off the water. Over this and easy climbing for another 6m to finish at a small ledge.

V2 Deep Water Solo 16m
2 Phantom Bride

Start up diagonal weakness on jugs. Up cracks until sloping ledge

V1 Deep Water Solo 10m
3 You've Seen The Butcher

At the far left of the black wall, start on jugs and move up until a sloping ledge

V0+ Deep Water Solo 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5 Bushwalkers route Traditionell 100m 1.2. The Thumb
12 Southeast ridge Traditionell 1.2. The Thumb
16 North Face Traditionell 15m 1.3. Diamantina Rock
North Face VF Traditionell 15m 1.3. Diamantina Rock
V0+ You've Seen The Butcher Deep Water Solo 10m 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes
18 Finding your roots Traditionell 13m 1.2. The Thumb
V1 Phantom Bride Deep Water Solo 10m 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes
V2 Digital Bath Deep Water Solo 16m 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes
? The Prophet TraditionellProjekt 1.1. North Peak
NER TraditionellProjekt 1.2. The Thumb
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