A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Luen Warneke Jarrah Brendan Heywood Jared Tyerman Nick Murphy OzFizzix Ken Thrash
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Hinchinbrook Island
10 in Area
- 1.1. North Peak 1 in Crag
- 1.2. The Thumb 4 in Crag
- 1.3. Diamantina Rock 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. Straloch Wall 0 in Crag
-
1.5.
Hillock Point 3 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes 3 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hinchinbrook Island 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Deep Water Soloing
Lat / Long: -18.346014, 146.212616
Beschreibung
Hinchinbrook Island is a magical place for the outdoor enthusiasts. A rugged island with tall mountains, fragile heath, lush rainforest, eucalypt forests and mangrove fringes. Located about 8km off the Queensland coast from Cardwell and about 4km away from Lucinda. The main mountains are Mt Bowen (1,121m), The Thumb (981m), Mt Diamantina (955m), and Mt Straloch (922m). The popular trail is the Thorsborne Trail which goes 32km along the island's east coast.
Einschränkungen
Access via boat or kayak from Cardwell or Lucinda. You need a permit to stay overnight in Hinchinbrook Island National Park and a permit to bushwalk up to the remote mountain summits.
Zustieg
Cardwell -
Lucinda -
1.1. North Peak 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -18.343504, 146.265279
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Prophet
Open project. The Prophet is a small boulder on top of a larger one on the west side of North Peak. |
1.2. The Thumb 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -18.360536, 146.277071
Beschreibung
Close to Mt Bowen is The Thumb at 981m, a protruding pinnacle.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bushwalkers route
Scramble to summit | 5 | 100m | |||
2 | NER | |||||
3 |
Southeast ridge
Traverse out L | 12 | ||||
4 |
Finding your roots
Up tree roots to horizontal root (rest). Up bigger root to step out R to powerful move up to smaller root. Awkward mantle to delicate move to large tree belay. Slings around roots for pro. Erste freie Begeh.: Luen Warneke, 29 Mai 2019 | 18 | 13m |
1.3. Diamantina Rock 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -18.429284, 146.294635
Build an anchor at the top (e.g. cam and thread)
One person then abseils on that anchor to the ground
Then, the person still on the top of the boulder disassembles the top anchor keeping the rope at the top.
The person at the bottom then proceeds to build an anchor at the base of the rock tying one end of the rope into the bottom anchor. There is a good boulder on the eastern side between the two rocks; thread/sling that boulder to create a bottom anchor.
The person still on top coils and thorws the rope off the other side of the bottom to that of the bottom anchor.
The top person then proceeds to abseil down off the other side of the rock to that of the bottom anchor. Be careful not the get the rope stuck in a terrain trap (e.g. v-groove).
Then, once both people are safely on the ground, proceed to disassemble bottom anchor and pull rope.
Beschreibung
As described on https://wanderstories.space/mt-diamantina/
At the summit of Mt Diamantina is Diamantina Rock which is actually two large boulders with a big gap between them. That chimney would climbable if you are very tall with long arms and legs but I wouldn't recommend it as it's a little too wide. Don't expect to climb either of these without ropes and fall protection. In between these rocks are canisters with logbooks.
Zustieg
The hike in takes about 6+ hours for the very fit bushwalker.
Abstieg
Steps to descent the rock:
Congratulations! You now have 'ghosted' Diamantia Rock.
Geschichte
Most people throw a rope across and prussic up. To Luen's knowledge, the smaller rock has only been climbed once before in the 1980s by a group from Ingham who used a tree which was growing close by but does not exist today.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
North Rock - Smaller BoulderThe smaller boulder is the easier route to climb and is well featured on the north side. | ||||||||
2 |
North Face VF
The same start as "North Face" but slightly harder for those who do not know how to crack climb and with a direct finish. Hand jam crack top the top. Has some pro at the top unlike "NF"; however it is vegetated. Erste freie Begeh.: | 16 | 15m | |||||
3 |
North Face
Middle of N face at the thin seam. Face and seam (crux) with small wire (#3 or 4) to ramp. Traverse 3m R past large wire (#8) and cams (red/green Camalot). Finish up the scooped weakness. Thread belay and large cams (blue Camalot) on top. Erste freie Begeh.: Madoc Sheehan & Luen Warneke, Sep 2018 | 16 | 15m | |||||
South Rock - Larger BoulderNo gear and not very well featured but it may be possible to climb for the experienced climber. However, it would need to be bolted. I suggest using Petzl Coeur Pulses to limit the eyesore for bushwalkers. |
1.4. Straloch Wall 0 routes in Crag
1.5. Hillock Point 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Deep Water Soloing
Lat / Long: -18.419681, 146.356673
Übersicht
Some good deep water soloing lines and slabbed trad climbing.
Einschränkungen
Access via boat only.
|
1.5.1. Diamond Eyes 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -18.420797, 146.357375
Übersicht
Small cove at Southern end of the rocky outcrop with a few DWS problems.
Einschränkungen
Boat access
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Digital Bath
Start up prominent easy arete, step out left onto face and then attack the steep crux section about 10m off the water. Over this and easy climbing for another 6m to finish at a small ledge. | V2 | 16m | |||||
2 |
★ Phantom Bride
Start up diagonal weakness on jugs. Up cracks until sloping ledge | V1 | 10m | |||||
3 |
You've Seen The Butcher
At the far left of the black wall, start on jugs and move up until a sloping ledge | V0+ | 10m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Bushwalkers route | 100m | 1.2. The Thumb | |||
12 | Southeast ridge | 1.2. The Thumb | ||||
16 | North Face | 15m | 1.3. Diamantina Rock | |||
North Face VF | 15m | 1.3. Diamantina Rock | ||||
V0+ | You've Seen The Butcher | 10m | 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes | |||
18 | Finding your roots | 13m | 1.2. The Thumb | |||
V1 | ★ | Phantom Bride | 10m | 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes | ||
V2 | ★ | Digital Bath | 16m | 1.5.1. Diamond Eyes | ||
? | The Prophet | 1.1. North Peak | ||||
NER | 1.2. The Thumb |