Mythologica Klettern 19 Routen in Gebiet

Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top.

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

Rap down onto big stance in corner. Natural belay. Bridge up short, steep corner to easy ground, before traversing R (easy but exposed) with pretty average protection in pockets to man-sized hueco on arête (good gear). Up arête to roof (RB). Kneebar to reach high up L on headwall. Up arête to tree belay.

Climbs the biggest section of roof. Access similar to TSAOT - rap down the R arête of the roof (facing out) to ledge, then walk 2m under the roof to RB belay station down low. Up start wall past three RB’s to roof. Reachy clip to RB in roof, then power to lip. Two RB’s on headwall then a loose finish. Tree belay.

Start at Pendulus belay, clip first ring on P and then up corner to roof. Scrunch up into the foetal position as you make your way out to the rocker blocker, try not to pull the block off into your lap whilst you pull the lip, blast up shallow chimney to top. Use extra long draws to avoid rope drag. All bolts.

Starting about 10m L of Mythologica at the big orange corner below the big roof (Pendulus). Climbs up the corner and face on good rock with just enough protection (some tricky slinging) to the ledge. Pendulus’ RB station 4m L on ledge.

Starts just right of IRGC, on the goats track underneath the large roof. Diagonally right over two carrots then back left and up over three ring bolts to chains.

Full value! See topo 4. Climb the original past the bulge. Instead of going up the crackline, move up L to a RB on the arête. Up the airy arête, then climb the wall just R of rubbishy gully.

See topo 4. Start just R of the big orange corner of IRGC. Stickclip RB, then boulder out over the void (crux). Easily up arête to ledge with daunting bulge above. Carefully crank up to clip high RB, then power through on good holds. Follow the crackline from here to the top.

A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath the slab. Crank onto the face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the thin, technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including many small SLCD’s and wires. Solid for the grade.

This one starts from way down on the ground. See topo 4. Just guess the acronym! The big corner/gully system. Good pro all the way, but dangerously loose blocks in the middle of the second pitch.

About 10m or so L of Cerberus. Out to the R, then up the cracked and balancy rock gully chute. Note the dangerous hanging rocks - exercise great caution here.

When looking out from the top of the Mythologica Wall it’s hard to miss the impressive looking prow out L, which is split by a ledge in the middle. Cerberus climbs the lower bit, Tartarus the upper. Starts 5m L of SID. Pull up into cave and shuffle along to the end. Sit down, feet low, lean out and clip RB (if you’re scared - temp #1 SLCD in the cave roof). Crank past the RB in an airy position to break (gear). Up crack (wire) to ledge. Belay off #2 SLCD and RB

The part of Hell reserved for the punishment of the wicked. To access, climb Cerberus, or rap in. Belay off RB and #2 SLCD. From the ledge, blast up the wall in a spectacular position past three RB’s to tree belay. Scramble R to top.

5m R of Cerberus is a big overhang with one RB wayyy up. Monstrous stickclip, or rap in and preplace. Powerful, bouldery climbing. Once on ledge, climb wall (easy, no pro) to base of Tartarus. Belay from RB and #2 SLCD.