Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Wedges | |||||
V4 | ★★ Blind Fury
Start matched in the mini-cave to the left of 'Tufa One', resisting the urge to place feet on broken block. Move through the short cave onto face holds then up into break, moving right around the arete onto jug then top out. Erschliesser: Mikl Erstbegehung: J. Budden, 3 Sep 2014 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Tufa One
Where you walk past a short overhang, this is the tufa-like line. Start in the back, thru roof, and up. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2014 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ The Times and Crimes of Professor Cuntley
Stand-start on the slot jug on the right arete of the Tufa One bloc (back wall on for feet). Dyno to rounded nose on arete and move left, topping out as for Tufa One. Erstbegehung: Brett Heino, 20 Sep 2014 | ||||
V2 | squirmilicious
Same start as TTCPC, but twist and thrutch you way up the right arete and chimney, with delicious knee-bars and rounded slopers. Erstbegehung: Patrick Burr & Drew Ivison, 20 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
V0+ | ★ Diagon-Alley Stand Start
Start on horns before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out Erschliesser: Tanner Graham Erstbegehung: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Diagon-Alley
Sit start on ledge, move up to horn before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out Erschliesser: Tanner Graham Erstbegehung: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Diagonally up Diagon Alley
Sit start matched on low jug. Move left up ledge to horn, finish as of ‘Diagon Alley’ Erstbegehung: Tanner Graham | 3m | |||
V0 | Thrown Floo Powder
Stand start on head height horns. Juggy top out Erschliesser: Tanner Graham Erstbegehung: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
Project
start on ledge in cave, use sloping lip. V4 probs | 3m | ||||
V1 | Leather JacKet
Low start on jug in ledge Erschliesser: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
V2 | Leather JacKet Dyno
start as for 'Leather JacKet', Dyno to top skipping all holds Erschliesser: Lachlan S | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Butt Crack
Up the crack Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 8m | |||
V3 | ★ Right Cheek
Start up on hanging plate 1m R of Butt Crack. Finish up thin pinchy rib thing Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 8m | |||
V4 | ★★ Builder's Moneybox
Start on left side of right arete. one hard move then up easy slab and arete. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 8m | |||
V3 | ★ Slice of Pi
Step on from Right side of right arete and up easy slab and arete. Erstbegehung: Gareth Downey, 2013 | 8m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Chocolate Barbarian
Start under left arete, back wall is on for first move only. Slap up and hand-traverse up 45 degree arete. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 8m | |||
V1 | ★ Slice
Standing start, pull up and onto right side of arete. Sit start as for Choc Barbarian adds a grade Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★ Wedding Cake Island
The top slab is a bit harder. Start 2m right of centre on 2 handed rail and pull onto slab, then drift left then up. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 9m | |||
V3 | Self-saucing Yorkshire Puddin
Start far right in corner on big slopes (right boulder is off) and up to easy finish. Erstbegehung: Gareth Downey, 2013 | 9m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Wheel of Cheese
Start on big slopes just left of corner (as for SSYP) and then traverse the lip (back wall is on for feet till you get to the pockets/toehooks at the start of Choc Barbarian) and finish up Chocolate Barbarian. A classic pumper. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2014 | 14m | |||
V4 | Muffin top
Tenuous laybacking, start on left egde and layback directly up the left edge, the 2 holds in the centre of the slab are off Erstbegehung: mikl, 2014 | 5m | |||
V3 | Hummingbird Cake
Short and funky and slabby. Start on the left edge and head up to 2 good holds in the centre of the slab. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Jazz Hands
Start left side of R arete, pull on then easier. Erstbegehung: Jeff Crass, 2013 | 5m | |||
V2 | Victorian Scrungecake
Right side of arete with awkward start Erstbegehung: Gareth Downey, 2013 | 5m | |||
V0 | Gutscraper Ridge
Up left side of tombstone boulder | 5m | |||
V1 | Tombstone Arete
Instead of going under the cave to the bouldering, continue down the Cathedral track for 20m to a slabby boulder just left of the track. Up the centre of the tombstone | 5m | |||
V0 | Jugs
right side of slab, starting on jugs | 4m | |||
Main Crag | |||||
19 | ★ Sorcerer's Apprentice
The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit. Erstbegehung: Stu Dobbie, 2011 | 10m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Andromedary
Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.) Erstbegehung: mikl law, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
24 | Caesarean Section
3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011. Erstbegehung: Richard Sonnerdale | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Prevenge
Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor. Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 13m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral
An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle. Erstbegehung: Stu Dobbie & Gavin Critchley, 2011 | 15m | |||
★★ Cupholder arete project
Blunt arete with strange carved tank strand and date 1/1/1941 at the base. 2 rings, open project Erschliesser: Michael Law, 2011 | |||||
20 | ★★ Layback Crack
Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete. Erstbegehung: mikl law, 2011 | 12m | |||
25 | ★ Bellygood
Flared layback seam 10m right of Layback Crack with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21 V4. Erstbegehung: mikl law, 2014 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Frijidij
Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete. Erste freie Begeh.: Mikl Law, 2013 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ The Quartermass Xperiment
Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds. Can continue up Young Bumblies for the full experience. Erstbegehung: Gareth Downey, 2014 | 12m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Head Injuries
Start: Below corner crack. 'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs. Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 6m | |||
21 | ★★ Young Bumblies
Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too) Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 10m | |||
22 | ★★ Surface Paradise
Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Surface Paradise Direct
Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break.. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ The Dynamic Duo
About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt. Without bridging 23! Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Holy Fisticuffs Batman
Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney. Erstbegehung: Mikl Law, 2015 | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Jaded Cravings
RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (22 if you go into it for a move). Rebolted 2006 Erstbegehung: Dave Barnes, 1990 | 16m | |||
26 | ★★ Success is the Enemy
LH variant of ‘Failure is your Friend’ Interesting boulder finisish. Erschliesser: Jason Lammers, 2000 Erstbegehung: nathanual hebbard, 28 Aug 2021 | 22m | |||
22 | ★★★ Failure is your Friend
Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 20m | |||
29 | ★★★ Tiger Style
Start up 6m left of Hercules to cave and step right onto face and rising traverse into Anticoagulant, finish at these anchors for 27. Finish up Bordella de Merde for the real deal. Long draws help with rope drag. Erstbegehung: nathanual hebbard, 29 Aug 2021 | 28m, 13 | |||
25 | ★★★ Anticoagulant Direct Finish
Erstbegehung: mikl, 1990 | 8m | |||
24 | ★ Anticoagulant
Desperate! Retro bolted 2011 Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 15m | |||
27 | ★ Bordella de Merde
A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008) Erstbegehung: Richard Sonnerdale, 2011 | 8m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Expectorant
Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Hercules
Start: 10m left of 'The Cathedral' Cave, up easy corner and step right into thin line. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off. Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★★ Hercules Extension
Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008) Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1990 | 22m | |||
23 | ★★ Imogen
Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2008 | 15m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Imogenation
Thin cranking, DF to Imogen. (Do not stem right at any point) Erstbegehung: mikl, 2013 | 22m, 11 | |||
21 | ★★ Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start
Stem up the wide crack to reach the third bolt of 'Imogen'. Stick-clip second bolt to keep you from hitting the ground if you fall, but it still may be an awkward swing. The original bolts for this route were to the right and better protected this version. It was only when these bolts were chopped and moved left did it become dangerous (and less popular) | 15m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Fat Crack
Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney. Erstbegehung: mikl law, 2013 | 22m | |||
15 | ★ Axe Grinder
A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there. Erstbegehung: Dave Barnes, 1989 | 8m | |||
20 | ★ Bundy's been bolting
Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project. Erstbegehung: Lord Bundy, 2007 | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The Shute
Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure Erstbegehung: Cameron Taylor, 2000 | 25m | |||
BBB - Direct Finish - CLOSED PROJECT - and still closed !
The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT Erstbegehung: 2000 Erschliesser: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 25m | ||||
24 | geschlagen ★★ Bora
Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★★ Wacky Tabacci
If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose.... Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 25m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Retro Crack
The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Has been lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 25m, 8 | |||
18 | ★★ Stainless Mystery
Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings). Erstbegehung: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Get Out of Town
Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off. Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 25m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Vitez
Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots. | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Medieval Remedies
Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off. Erstbegehung: Ben Williams, 2015 | 25m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Vitez Right Finish
Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town! Erstbegehung: P. Farkas, 1989 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Black Knight of 'Ni'
Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing. Erstbegehung: David Pasqualino, Mai 2021 | 25m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Inchworm Groove
This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1986 | 8m | |||
mega proj
closed project up thin layback seam/crack to slab Erstbegehung: Erschliesser: nathanual hebbard | 25m, 9 | ||||
23 | ★★ Creature Of The Knight
Start as for CF and break left once you establish yourself on the top slab. Finish at anchor to the right of the corner crack above obvious feature (.4 can dilute the finish). Erstbegehung: nathanual hebbard, 2 Aug 2021 | 27m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Creature Feature
As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006 Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 20m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Gutterfingers
Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off. Erstbegehung: Vanessa Peterson, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
17 | ★★ Ozone Action
Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs. Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 20m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Jack and the Beanstalk
climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse. | 8m | |||
14 | Guerrilla Warfare
| 8m | |||
22 | ★ Ghostrider
The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2006 | 8m | |||
13 | ★ Aero Arete
Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA. Erstbegehung: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Suicidal Tendencies
One more accross, 3 BRs. Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Cathedral Quack
The next one along to the left. Another fun climb ! Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Neuron Nerd
Start just right of the chains, and up past three RBs. Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 8m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Cosmic Cruncher
Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 8m | |||
6 | Tarmac Traverse
The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain. | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Shoot That Dog
The tricky looking Chimney Erstbegehung: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Mushroom Mantle
Start below flake just right of chimney groove. Can be done without tree (at about the same grade ) Or step off tree and up the flake and dynoSlab (TM) with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011) Erstbegehung: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 12m | |||
24 | ★ Cranking Like a Demon
Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011) Erstbegehung: Mike Law | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Isis
Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall. Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★ Glacis
Start: 3m right of Isis. Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1987 | 18m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★★ Pool Shark
Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear. Erstbegehung: nathanual hebbard & Dave Pastafarian, 24 Jul 2021 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Moss Ghyll Grooves
20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall. Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy... Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1990 | 10m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Take me to the Tropics
start as for Moss Ghyll. Can get dirty. Up MGG then traverse right and up. Good crux move Erstbegehung: Cam Taylor, 2008 | 11m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ In the Groove
Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1990 | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Legless
10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and pull boulder problem, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1991 | 20m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ Spite
Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall. Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt. Stick clip high Ubolt and go Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1990 | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Mr Squiggle
8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite. Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors. Erste freie Begeh.: Mike Law, 1990 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Ms Pat
4m right of MS. Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts! Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1989 | 15m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Monopoly
Start: 5m right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake past a bolt then the slab above using friction smearing: "nose over toes, rubber on the rock, stand up straight". If you're leaning over clutching at crystals or desperately hauling with your hands you're making it harder than it is. Erstbegehung: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013 | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | Trivial Pursuit
Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path Erstbegehung: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013 | 10m, 3 |