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Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V3 | ★ Unknown
Unknown problem about 3m right of CF. Straight up. Bad landing. Erstbegehung: 2012 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Chunder Falls
Just right of small triangular rock on the ground, at the middle/right end of the crag. Basically move straight up staying just left of the crack, but using it. Not as bad as the name suggests! Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ So close
As for CF. Good jug. (marked SN on the photo.) Keeping feet off the easy rocks, move up the rising ramp/arete till the jug. Erstbegehung: 2012 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ So Unnatural
Same start as So Natural. Instead of going up to the top, traverse left towards the start of The Change Up. Erstbegehung: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ So Natural
As So close. Keep going up the arete, then straight to the top. Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 5m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ The Change Up
Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural). Erstbegehung: 2012 | 3m | |||
V2 | Scoop Swoop
Sit start low on the rail just above the break (break useful for high heel). Move left hand into the rounded scope and push out left for jug 'So Close'. Continue up as for 'So Close' to finishing jug. Erstbegehung: Phillip Booth, 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Side to Side
From big hold in back right of cave, traverse left along undercling, then straight out along line till nose. Go under nose, finishing with hands on top. Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Change up Side to Side
As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring. Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 7m | |||
V4 | ★★★ To My Lichen
Start in the cave with feet at the back wall and hands on the undercling rail. The bottom ledges in the back of the cave are out. Work the line between Side To Side and Back To Front using toe hook(s) in the start-hold underclings, and make your way to the nose. Gather your energy and do The Change Up all the way to the finish. Pumpy and endurance sapping Erstbegehung: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021 | 9m | |||
V4 | ★★ ROCK!
Highballish extension to My Julie. Mantle up nose and then step up right onto airy face without using left face. Named after the huge rock that pulled as first ascentionist pulled over the very top. The rest of the rock seems alright though Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, Jul 2021 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ My Julie direct finish
Instead of finishing on nose feature, mantle up and head directly out up licheny face. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2021 | 5m | |||
{US} V3 | ★★ My Julie
Start feet where two dots are. Right hand on marked sharp feature undercling, left hand where red dot is at chalked jug. Follow the line, feet get tricky when bumping for the top out. The rock felt great! There is a couple of variations where you can cut feet for fun. Check out the climb on instagram Edward Lind Erstbegehung: Edward Lind Erstbegehung: 26 Jun 2021 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Back to Front
As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose. Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Jimmy Loves Bekky
Starting about 3m left of the nose, sit start on small feature at left end of scoop. Right and out nose, finishing on front side of it. Erstbegehung: 2012 | 4m | |||
V3 | Don't Touch the Red Button!
As for JLB. Follow line out right, but move upward through scoop and keep going to the top. Careful... Named after the red hold that crumbled before the first ascent. It wasn't the only one... Erstbegehung: 2012 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Pinch Direct
Start on thin iron stone pinch under cave and head straight out, into scoop and mantle out. Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick | ||||
V5 | Play that Funky Music
Start in the same pinch/jug as DTtRB with easy feet. Reach out left under the roof to two small holds on a flake (one at the end, the other on the right). Toe hook and make a big move for the lip. Then traverse lip R until you can mantle. Erstbegehung: dwebster, 2012 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Amber Blade
Follow the arete up without using the right rock. Erstbegehung: Charity Maj, 12 Dez 2017 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Tortuga
Up to the tortoise heads for a top out. Erstbegehung: Postman, 12 Dez 2017 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Dark Sunrise
Crouch start on ledge, with hands on underclings in cave. Top out is a bit mossy but otherwise fine enough. Sanierung: Earl Paras | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Amber Sunrise
Start with hands in cave and go straight up to top. Simple description, hard problem. Erstbegehung: Earl Paras Erstbegehung: 15 Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
V4 R | ★★ Return of Gladys
We like to take the party all the way. Traverse the whole palace. Start at same jugs for S2S, To my lichen etc with feet on shelf below jug. This climb is to use only the roof no low feet. There's a great rail so live up the toe hooks. Run hands along the rail until coming to the features of My Julie, Side 2 side and My Lichen. From here cross through the ceiling pinches towards the other side of what I will call the bowl of the cave (Open ceiling section where you can look upwards). There is a really nice sloper jug left of the horn where you'll want some rest. Grab a heel hook to and take few seconds. From here continue left and high to a finger rail above what is a very flaky shelf. Please take care of this shelf it's beautiful yet brittle. You may use feet on it but select the thicker corners of the shelf. Traverse along this finger rail until passing the flaky shelf and top out between the two features on low roof. Pray for your skin. Erschliesser: Edward Lind, 15 Aug 2021 Erstbegehung: Jeremi Campese, 15 Aug 2021 | 10m | |||
V4 R | ★★ Rick n Morty
Rock up. Look at Tortuga to the left of this line covered in moss thinking wtf is this. See some pretty cool looking mono pockets. Brain says shove your finger in there cam it from a left hand lock off gaston to a heinous off camber two finger sloper for the grade. Maintain lock left hand in gaston, raise left foot high to break in wall below left hand and effectively pump to high left hand jug. Feels fucking great. Top out to see this wicked looking tree. Life's good. Erschliesser: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021 Erstbegehung: Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Glad it's us!
Endurance traverse starting from side to side jug. Pre requisite climb for Gladys. Topo says it all Erstbegehung: Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021 Erschliesser: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021 | 6m | |||
V0 | Chicken McNugget
Straight up the middle. Great for beginners and kids. Erstbegehung: Fraser Paras, 22 Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | Big Mac
Kids and beginner climb to the right of Chicken McNugget. Erstbegehung: Evan Paras, 22 Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | Monkey Magic
Erstbegehung: Evan Paras, 22 Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
V2 | Tripitaka
Start low on right at the arete. Traverse left and top out via Monkey Magic. Make sure to check rock quality before ascent. Some of the start holds broke off on the arete Erstbegehung: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021 | ||||
V1 | Sandy
Traverse from left of bloc to right and then top out. Erstbegehung: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021 | ||||
V0 | Pigsy
Straight up the middle of the Monkey cloud. Erstbegehung: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021 |
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