Hilfe

Jannali Reserve Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Tom Bes Phillip Booth Jason Lammers Sam Louie Bill Zhou Sam Farrar Dylan Hill Kosta Prekos

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Jannali Reserve 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -34.018417, 151.056528

Beschreibung

Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze.

Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.

Routes are described from right to left when facing the cliff line.

Einschränkungen

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

übernommen von Sutherland

Zustieg

Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 80m into the bush and turn left to follow The ledge walking track. After another 100m the cliffline is on the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Tamarian Wall

Block just left of alphabet wall on far right of crag facing in.

2 Darmok

Start L hand on low sidepull and R on thin crimp. move up to double flakes and then delicately out.

Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick

V1 Boulder 2m
3 and Jalad

start on low break and blunt edge. move up arete.

Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick

V0 Boulder 2m
4 (Temba, His Arms Wide)

sit start with a hand in each break on low slab. stand up and gain big rail. Move up and right to top out.

Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick

V0+ Boulder 2m
5 at Tanagra!

Get in that cave. Sit start using big break and foot smears. move out to lip and then move up flakes and out

Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick

V1 Boulder 2m

Alphabet Wall

Depending where you drop down from the walking track to the base of the crag you might need to double back to find this one.

7 Sidewinder

Legend says Joe climbed this direct line many years ago.

Same hands as the Janali Dyno, straight to the lip and mantle.

Dylan Hill

V8 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Jannali Hole

Start in the hole off the sidepull lay back. Follow the hole feature and punch directly up the face.

Note: Avoid the thin flakey rail on the left. Very thin, will break.

Erstbegehung: Cameron C

V4 Boulder
9 Jannali Dyno

Sit start below the hole. Dyno from the hole to the sidepull out to the right.

Joe Faulkner

bigboibeta

Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson

V7 Boulder 3m
10 Lean-to / A

Sit start on big hold to the left of Jannali Dyno start, move up to side pull then top out.

V1 Boulder 3m
11 Beans / B

Sit start, same as A, push left on side pulls and top out

V2 Boulder 3m
12 C

Sit start, Left hand pocket, Right hand nice edge. Dead point to high edge the top out.

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 It was like that when I got here

Sit start matched on crimp, then head for the pocket above the lip via the big hold. Head right along the lip using good pinches before heading straight up the slab using good holds on the horizontal break. Arete and right hand side of bloc are out!

Erstbegehung: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug 2021

V3 Boulder 4m
14 Mantel mania

Warnung Fels:

Sit start using low right side pull and broken flake on the prow. From there slap your way up good holds on both sides of the prow before a funky mantle over the top

Erstbegehung: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug 2021

V2 Boulder

Bypass Wall

Tall, slightly overhung wall.

16 Triple Bypass

Sit start on sidepull/undercling. Big moves straight up to top out.

Marcus Lim

Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson

V7 Boulder 5m
17 Quadruple Bypass

Sit start 2 metres right of Triple Bypass, and off the undercling, use the pocket to gain the break. Then traverse left to finish up triple bypass.

Stephen Rawls

Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson

V7 Boulder 5m
18 Quintuple bypass

The easier alternative to quadruple bypass, for those who can’t dyno! Start as QB, go to left pocket to reach nice holds, traverse left then go right hand in nice gaston to finish as QB and TB. V6ish?

Erstbegehung: Tom oke, 30 Nov 2020

V6 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Too Windy to Paddle

Sit start at obvious jug, move right and up.

Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020

V3 Boulder
20 Jam Sandwich

Start on same hold as too windy to paddle but go left from there. Fun move to gain the first layer of jam in the break. Up again to next break and second layer of jam (you put jam on both bits of bread right?). then move left and top out in front of tree. Not the best landing from the last section but top holds are good.

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2022

V2 Boulder
21 Backwards T-shirt

Block just right of wish you were here cave. Start on huge jug at base of arete. Move up and left to crimp on rounded lip. Then up the face and out.

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes

V2 Boulder
22 Daddy's Ladder

Start on starting hold for Backwards T-shirt, continue right onto right hand face of boulder and make your way to the top

Erstbegehung: Joel Kristensen, 25 Feb

V0- Boulder 1m

Wish You Where Here Cave

24 The Brown Ghost

Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino

Erstbegehung: Patrick Reynolds, 4 Nov 2018

V4 Boulder 4m
25 Swimming in a Fish Bowl

Start As You Can't Change History - instead of going around to ramp, reverse the shoulder move of Wish You Were Here and link into The Brown Ghost. Bicep Bricker!

Erstbegehung: Kosta Prekos

V7 Boulder 8m
26 Wish You Were Here

Obvious crag classic!

Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp.

Ainhoa Martinez Sam May

V5 Boulder 5m
27 Wish You Were Here Direct

Start as Wish You Were Here - after shoulder move instead of going around to the ramp, move straight up via scooped pinches to airy top out!

Erstbegehung: Kosta Prekos

V5 Boulder 5m
28 You Can't Change History

Sit start at left of cave. Make your way out via underclings to join the ramp finish of Wish You Were Here. Back wall/ledge is in.

V6 Boulder 5m
29 The Real Wish You Were Here

Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in.

Stephen Rawls Peter

Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson

V7 Boulder 5m
30 The Real Wish You Were Here (Original)

From what I know this is the original beta/line for this climb which is why it was originally V8. No slapping along the rail which is what is done now. Literally bust straight out.

Old beta video Landers

V8 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 Wish You Were Joe

Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"

Alex Ling

V10 Boulder 5m
32 Joe's Traverse

Sit start as for the juggy warm up, traverse right to finish up the weakness 2m left of Wish You Were Here finish..

Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson

V4 Boulder 5m
33 Up and Easy

Start as for 'Joe's Traverse' and continue straight up to top out.

Erstbegehung: Unknown

V0 Boulder 5m
34 Ready, set, deck

One to send your gym-climbing friends up for their first taste of spicy top-outs. Start on horn as for Up and Easy but head left to tiny edges and slimpers. Big move up then exit left searching for invisible holds on the rounded top.

Erschliesser: James S

Erstbegehung: Some strong shire climber in a pair of Volleys

V2 Boulder 5m
35 Wall Crawler / Crimpy Wall Right

Trend right to top out.

V4 Boulder 3m
36 Mr Piñata / Crimpy Wall Middle

Common start, up and one crimp to the right before blasting straight up to scoop above, then mantle over bulge.

Erstbegehung: Cristoph Gill, 9 Sep 2023

V4 Boulder 3m
37 Call a Lawyer / Crimpy Wall Left

Start low and crimp left up the wall to a slopey and committing top out.

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

X Wall

Easy vertical wall with endless V0 possibilities. Perfect for warming up.

39 Contrived Right

Warnung Fels: Broken start holds

Sit start on shared start with 'Mystique', left hand to non in cut sidepull directly above and slap to the right after adjusting body position. continue up the V0 slab to the right.

Note on FA: its so damn contrived, I am convinced I am the one who would do it.

Erstbegehung: Bill Zhou, 22 Dez 2019

V3 Boulder 3m
40 Mystique

Warnung Fels: Broken start holds

Sit start on good slots in the scoop (left side is a jug, right side is an edge), then up through sidepulls to top out above.

Erstbegehung: Unknown

V1 Boulder 3m
41 Jubilee

Sit start from big undercling as for 'Storm' then head straight up only using holds on the light streak for your hands. Everything left and right is off limits.

Either go up to decent crimp rail and dyno to the top or balance through a few slopier holds.

Erstbegehung: Unknown

Erschliesser: Phillip Booth

V1 Boulder 4m
42 Storm

Sit start in undercling at the base of the crack and climb straight up, topping out as for 'X Wall'

Alternate: Sit start in undercling then climb the crack pure for about the same grade.

Erschliesser: Phillip Booth

Erstbegehung: Unknown

V0 Boulder 4m
43 Rogue

Sit start in middle of X Wall with hands on the scoopy ledge and go straight up keeping left and out of the crack.

Erschliesser: Phillip Booth

Erstbegehung: Unknown

V0 Boulder 5m
44 depths of time

Sit start from juggy undercling in front of the tree. Up a move or two then traverse right then up the crack.

Erstbegehung: Unknown

V0 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Pocketed Wall

Continue left from X Wall 5m to find these very juggy pocketed problems.

46 Juggy Warm Up Vertical

Options abound.

V0 Boulder 4m
47 Blue Monday

Sit start, hard to to established. Then up the left chute on mega pockets.

Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020

V1 Boulder 4m
48 Sunday fiesta

Sit start low underneath the bulge, head straight up to top out

V3 Boulder 3m
49 Sweat Bandit

Bat hang start on big rail prow and hands underneath. Mantle for your life and stroll up and right on the slopey ramp. Tom Bes FA

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes

V2 Boulder

Buns Avenue

South area of reserve visible from end of Linden St. Either park there (30 secs approach) or pop up onto cliftop track from main area and walk south for 5 mins. Some nice easy climbs with good topouts and a harder section further back with some projects. NOTE: Described right to left while facing cliff.

51 Oesophagus full of biscuits

Sit start on low rails. Up crimps 1m right of crack. Slopey topout. v2/3

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023

V3 Boulder
52 BA KU

Layback up corner crack. Sit start.

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023

V1 Boulder
53 Deadpoint proj

One big deep hold around head height to maybe launch up to the small break. V5/6? Open project, go for it!

BoulderProjekt
54 Chicken Crimpies

So start on undercling of the big flake, crimp up face.

Erstbegehung: Scott Murray

Erschliesser: Tom Bes

V4 Boulder
55 Glob

Up the left edge of the big flake

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
56 Central Jug

Another nice easy jug filled boulder.

V0 Boulder
57 Jug Jug

Start on the double jugs or just below. Move up through more big reassuring jugs for a lovely topout.

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023

V0 Boulder
58 Pokemon

Nice side pull to start and up through finger jug topout

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023

V0 Boulder
59 Toms Thumb

start on low break and head up to left side pull. Give a thumbs up into the pocket to gain good holds in next break for top out.

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023

V1 Boulder
60 Na Na Na (Suprise)

start at base of ramped corner, follow it up

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023

V0 Boulder
61 Corned Flakes

up leftward series of big flakes

Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023

V0 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Daddy's Ladder Boulder 1m
V0 Central Jug Boulder
Corned Flakes Boulder
Jug Jug Boulder
Juggy Warm Up Vertical Boulder 4m
Na Na Na (Suprise) Boulder
Pokemon Boulder
Rogue Boulder 5m
Storm Boulder 4m
Up and Easy Boulder 5m
and Jalad Boulder 2m
depths of time Boulder 5m
V0+ (Temba, His Arms Wide) Boulder 2m
V1 BA KU Boulder
Blue Monday Boulder 4m
Darmok Boulder 2m
Glob Boulder
Jubilee Boulder 4m
Lean-to Boulder 3m
Mystique Boulder 3m
Toms Thumb Boulder
at Tanagra! Boulder 2m
V2 Backwards T-shirt Boulder
Beans Boulder 3m
C Boulder
Jam Sandwich Boulder
Mantel mania Boulder
Ready, set, deck Boulder 5m
Sweat Bandit Boulder
V3 Contrived Right Boulder 3m
It was like that when I got here Boulder 4m
Oesophagus full of biscuits Boulder
Sunday fiesta Boulder 3m
Too Windy to Paddle Boulder
V4 Call a Lawyer Boulder 3m
Chicken Crimpies Boulder
Jannali Hole Boulder
Joe's Traverse Boulder 5m
Mr Piñata Boulder 3m
The Brown Ghost Boulder 4m
Wall Crawler Boulder 3m
V5 Wish You Were Here Boulder 5m
Wish You Were Here Direct Boulder 5m
V6 Quintuple bypass Boulder 5m
You Can't Change History Boulder 5m
V7 Jannali Dyno Boulder 3m
Quadruple Bypass Boulder 5m
Swimming in a Fish Bowl Boulder 8m
The Real Wish You Were Here Boulder 5m
Triple Bypass Boulder 5m
V8 Sidewinder Boulder 3m
The Real Wish You Were Here (Original) Boulder
V10 Wish You Were Joe Boulder 5m
? Deadpoint proj BoulderProjekt
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文