A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Tom Bes Phillip Booth Tom New Jason Lammers Sam Louie James S Bill Zhou Sam Farrar Dylan Hill Kosta Prekos
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Jannali Reserve 54 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Jannali Reserve 54 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -34.018417, 151.056528
Beschreibung
Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze.
Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.
Routes are described from right to left when facing the cliff line.
Einschränkungen
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
Zustieg
Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 80m into the bush and turn left to follow The ledge walking track. After another 100m the cliffline is on the left.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Tamarian WallBlock just left of alphabet wall on far right of crag facing in. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Darmok
Start L hand on low sidepull and R on thin crimp. move up to double flakes and then delicately out. Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick | V1 | 2m | |||||
3 |
★ and Jalad
start on low break and blunt edge. move up arete. Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick | V0 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ (Temba, His Arms Wide)
sit start with a hand in each break on low slab. stand up and gain big rail. Move up and right to top out. Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick | V0+ | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ at Tanagra!
Get in that cave. Sit start using big break and foot smears. move out to lip and then move up flakes and out Erstbegehung: Tom Beswetherick | V1 | 2m | |||||
Alphabet WallDepending where you drop down from the walking track to the base of the crag you might need to double back to find this one. | ||||||||
7 |
★★★ Sidewinder
Legend says Joe climbed this direct line many years ago. Same hands as the Janali Dyno, straight to the lip and mantle. | V8 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Jannali Hole
Start in the hole off the sidepull lay back. Follow the hole feature and punch directly up the face. Note: Avoid the thin flakey rail on the left. Very thin, will break. Erstbegehung: Cameron C | V4 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Jannali Dyno
Sit start below the hole. Dyno from the hole to the sidepull out to the right. Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson | V7 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★★ Lean-to / A
Sit start on big hold to the left of Jannali Dyno start, move up to side pull then top out. | V1 | 3m | |||||
11 |
★★ Beans / B
Sit start, same as A, push left on side pulls and top out | V2 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★ C
Sit start, Left hand pocket, Right hand nice edge. Dead point to high edge the top out. | V2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ It was like that when I got here
Sit start matched on crimp, then head for the pocket above the lip via the big hold. Head right along the lip using good pinches before heading straight up the slab using good holds on the horizontal break. Arete and right hand side of bloc are out! Erstbegehung: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug 2021 | V3 | 4m | |||||
14 |
★ Mantel mania
Sit start using low right side pull and broken flake on the prow. From there slap your way up good holds on both sides of the prow before a funky mantle over the top Erstbegehung: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug 2021 | V2 | ||||||
Bypass WallTall, slightly overhung wall. | ||||||||
16 |
★★ Triple Bypass
Sit start on sidepull/undercling. Big moves straight up to top out. Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson | V7 | 5m | |||||
17 |
★★ Quadruple Bypass
Sit start 2 metres right of Triple Bypass, and off the undercling, use the pocket to gain the break. Then traverse left to finish up triple bypass. Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson | V7 | 5m | |||||
18 |
★★ Quintuple bypass
The easier alternative to quadruple bypass, for those who can’t dyno! Start as QB, go to left pocket to reach nice holds, traverse left then go right hand in nice gaston to finish as QB and TB. V6ish? Erstbegehung: Tom oke, 30 Nov 2020 | V6 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
Too Windy to Paddle
Sit start at obvious jug, move right and up. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020 | V3 | ||||||
20 |
Jam Sandwich
Start on same hold as too windy to paddle but go left from there. Fun move to gain the first layer of jam in the break. Up again to next break and second layer of jam (you put jam on both bits of bread right?). then move left and top out in front of tree. Not the best landing from the last section but top holds are good. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2022 | V2 | ||||||
21 |
★★ Backwards T-shirt
Block just right of wish you were here cave. Start on huge jug at base of arete. Move up and left to crimp on rounded lip. Then up the face and out. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes | V2 | ||||||
22 |
Daddy's Ladder
Start on starting hold for Backwards T-shirt, continue right onto right hand face of boulder and make your way to the top Erstbegehung: Joel Kristensen, 25 Feb | V0- | 1m | |||||
Wish You Where Here Cave | ||||||||
24 |
★★ The Brown Ghost
Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino Erstbegehung: Patrick Reynolds, 4 Nov 2018 | V4 | 4m | |||||
25 |
★★ Swimming in a Fish Bowl
Start As You Can't Change History - instead of going around to ramp, reverse the shoulder move of Wish You Were Here and link into The Brown Ghost. Bicep Bricker! Erstbegehung: Kosta Prekos | V7 | 8m | |||||
26 |
★★★ Wish You Were Here
Obvious crag classic! Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp. | V5 | 5m | |||||
27 |
★★ Wish You Were Here Direct
Start as Wish You Were Here - after shoulder move instead of going around to the ramp, move straight up via scooped pinches to airy top out! Erstbegehung: Kosta Prekos | V5 | 5m | |||||
28 |
★★ You Can't Change History
Sit start at left of cave. Make your way out via underclings to join the ramp finish of Wish You Were Here. Back wall/ledge is in. | V6 | 5m | |||||
29 |
★★ The Real Wish You Were Here
Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in. Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson | V7 | 5m | |||||
30 |
★★ The Real Wish You Were Here (Original)
From what I know this is the original beta/line for this climb which is why it was originally V8. No slapping along the rail which is what is done now. Literally bust straight out. Old beta video Landers | V8 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
31 |
★★ Wish You Were Joe
Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10" | V10 | 5m | |||||
32 |
★ Joe's Traverse
Sit start as for the juggy warm up, traverse right to finish up the weakness 2m left of Wish You Were Here finish.. Erstbegehung: Joe Hodgson | V4 | 5m | |||||
33 |
★ Up and Easy
Start as for 'Joe's Traverse' and continue straight up to top out. Erstbegehung: Unknown | V0 | 5m | |||||
34 |
★ Ready, set, deck
One to send your gym-climbing friends up for their first taste of spicy top-outs. Start on horn as for Up and Easy but head left to tiny edges and slimpers. Big move up then exit left searching for invisible holds on the rounded top. Erschliesser: James S Erstbegehung: Some strong shire climber in a pair of Volleys | V2 | 5m | |||||
35 |
★★ Wall Crawler / Crimpy Wall Right
Trend right to top out. | V4 | 3m | |||||
36 |
★★ Mr Piñata / Crimpy Wall Middle
Common start, up and one crimp to the right before blasting straight up to scoop above, then mantle over bulge. Erstbegehung: Cristoph Gill, 9 Sep 2023 | V4 | 3m | |||||
37 |
★★ Call a Lawyer / Crimpy Wall Left
Start low and crimp left up the wall to a slopey and committing top out. | V4 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
X WallEasy vertical wall with endless V0 possibilities. Perfect for warming up. | ||||||||
39 |
★ Contrived Right
Warnung Fels: Broken start holds Sit start on shared start with 'Mystique', left hand to non in cut sidepull directly above and slap to the right after adjusting body position. continue up the V0 slab to the right. Note on FA: its so damn contrived, I am convinced I am the one who would do it. Erstbegehung: Bill Zhou, 22 Dez 2019 | V3 | 3m | |||||
40 |
★ Mystique
Warnung Fels: Broken start holds Sit start on good slots in the scoop (left side is a jug, right side is an edge), then up through sidepulls to top out above. Erstbegehung: Unknown | V1 | 3m | |||||
41 |
★ Jubilee
Sit start from big undercling as for 'Storm' then head straight up only using holds on the light streak for your hands. Everything left and right is off limits. Either go up to decent crimp rail and dyno to the top or balance through a few slopier holds. Erstbegehung: Unknown Erschliesser: Phillip Booth | V1 | 4m | |||||
42 |
★ Storm
Sit start in undercling at the base of the crack and climb straight up, topping out as for 'X Wall' Alternate: Sit start in undercling then climb the crack pure for about the same grade. Erschliesser: Phillip Booth Erstbegehung: Unknown | V0 | 4m | |||||
43 |
★ Rogue
Sit start in middle of X Wall with hands on the scoopy ledge and go straight up keeping left and out of the crack. Erschliesser: Phillip Booth Erstbegehung: Unknown | V0 | 5m | |||||
44 |
★★ depths of time
Sit start from juggy undercling in front of the tree. Up a move or two then traverse right then up the crack. Erstbegehung: Unknown | V0 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Pocketed WallContinue left from X Wall 5m to find these very juggy pocketed problems. | ||||||||
46 |
★★ Juggy Warm Up Vertical
Options abound. | V0 | 4m | |||||
47 |
★★ Blue Monday
Sit start, hard to to established. Then up the left chute on mega pockets. Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||||
48 |
★★ Sunday fiesta
Sit start low underneath the bulge, head straight up to top out | V3 | 3m | |||||
49 |
★ Sweat Bandit
Bat hang start on big rail prow and hands underneath. Mantle for your life and stroll up and right on the slopey ramp. Tom Bes FA Erstbegehung: Tom Bes | V2 | ||||||
Buns AvenueSouth area of reserve visible from end of Linden St. Either park there (30 secs approach) or pop up onto cliftop track from main area and walk south for 5 mins. Some nice easy climbs with good topouts and a harder section further back with some projects. NOTE: Described right to left while facing cliff. | ||||||||
51 |
★★ Oesophagus full of biscuits
Sit start on low rails. Up crimps 1m right of crack. Slopey topout. v2/3 Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023 | V3 | ||||||
52 |
★ BA KU
Layback up corner crack. Sit start. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023 | V1 | ||||||
53 |
Deadpoint proj
One big deep hold around head height to maybe launch up to the small break. V5/6? Open project, go for it! | |||||||
54 |
★ Chicken Crimpies
So start on undercling of the big flake, crimp up face. Erstbegehung: Scott Murray Erschliesser: Tom Bes | V4 | ||||||
55 |
Glob
Up the left edge of the big flake Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023 | V1 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
56 |
★ Central Jug
Another nice easy jug filled boulder. | V0 | ||||||
57 |
★★ Jug Jug
Start on the double jugs or just below. Move up through more big reassuring jugs for a lovely topout. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023 | V0 | ||||||
58 |
★ Pokemon
Nice side pull to start and up through finger jug topout Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023 | V0 | ||||||
59 |
★★ Toms Thumb
start on low break and head up to left side pull. Give a thumbs up into the pocket to gain good holds in next break for top out. Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023 | V1 | ||||||
60 |
★ Na Na Na (Suprise)
start at base of ramped corner, follow it up Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 2023 | V0 | ||||||
61 |
Corned Flakes
up leftward series of big flakes Erstbegehung: Tom Bes, 31 Jul 2023 | V0 |