Routen in North West für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

A forgotten Gordy concoction. up face past 2 FHs then move right to vague arete past two more FHs.

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

As for Heimweh, then veer L where Heimweh goes R into DaC. up past a few intermittent seams, then R into DaC up high.

Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

Start between NPS and CitS at the base of the V-slot the trail goes up. No bridging onto the opposite wall! Bad old FH, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up Crows in the Snow.

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

The short wall with a RB.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D.

Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C.

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

R to L boulder traverse

R to L traverse starting on the obvious jug pocket and mono. Finish as for start of Exodus, the high jug.

Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II.

Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Located a few metres right of the descent scramble, about 7m R of Wastemaster. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

Climb Reaper to the prominent chalked jug in the middle of the diagonal on pitch 2. Step right and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on Taste Sensation. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH, and staying R of the last FH of Taste Sensation. Rejoin Taste Sensation at its final crack, to chains (33m).

Best of the lot - cheekily described as the Serpentine of Arapiles which is a bit of a stretch but it does have a lot of climbing on it. Incest into Taste Sensation Direct. 70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper.

Up Incest to the pair of bolts, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with Wild Reaper Connection to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of Jilted. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head straight up to 2nd BR and span left to the base of unlikely arete/groove feature. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack.

The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch.

Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

Start 1m left of No Exit and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into No Exit. Finish as for that route.

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare.

Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

As for FoF to piton, then L to seam.

Start: Start as for FoF.

The Continuation of the traverse (1) on the wall facing the creek

Steep arete facing the creek

Sit start. Up then a few moves on the lip of the roof

Sit start, then move up through side pull and fun sequence of edges and jugs to top out on high but good holds.

A linkup that traverses the cave, twice.

Start as for "Four", traverse leftwards and then finish up traversing right as per "One".

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round.

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack.

Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN and go straight up to join AN at it's crux. Finish at AN pitch 1 lower-offs.

Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2.

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

1. 15m (26) Head out left past 2 high FH's and an unnecessary, rusty carrot that's pulling out, then step down and left to arete before heading back upwards again to ledge with lower-offs.

2. 12m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top for the grade 24 version, or direct for the grade 26 version (listed separately here but now the accepted finish), to lower-offs on top.

From the anchor of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way, to lower-offs.

Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold, to lower-offs.

Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched. Mix of rings and carrot bolts

Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m.

Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.

1. 20m (15) Climb up TGTBaTU then belay while you're still below the roof on the right.

2. 30m (26) Move R under roof, then crank out it past a piton and sling, which by now will be rubbish if they're even there at all. Now head R up a flake above and through the next roof. Continue up the wall above (or, more conveniently, move L to the rap anchor atop pitch 2 of TGTBaTU).

Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts.

Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof.

Start: Start 6m R of NF.

A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade!

Climb Str'ight Wall to the jugs, reverse Waterboys and finish via the hardish left arete variant of Left Wall for the extra half grade.

Sit start and up via slopers on blunt arete above blocks between the two Gonzos.

Jump to the poor hold and head right and up.

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish.

As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker.

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

Position yourself at the base of the coq. slide up and right passing a bolt, then when things start to ease off, jump back on the coq and take it to the top.

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Bring medium cams to make an anchor for belaying. Re-Bolted 2024

Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes.

Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!).

If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26.

As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original.

After the crux of UCRN, easy climbing leads up left for a few metres to the current chains. However, the original belay was another two body-lengths higher at the base of the chimney (this was also the original belay on Picking Winners; the 2nd pitch of PW then stepped right and climbed the obvious bulging crack above).

This variant provides a slightly harder and more sustained pitch than the original. It continues directly up from the crux of UCRN (instead of moving left to the chains) to take the short tricky bulge (the new crux) to a double ring anchor immediately below the start of the second pitch of PW.