Routen in North West für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams.

Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006.

A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt.

An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O.

Goes left from 7th Pillar LHV to finish at the top of Mirage P1.

Start from the ground as for The Great Affair. Trend diagonally L past 2 new bolts to ledge. Continue L and up 7th pillar LHV flake, then finish as for Snake in the Grass to Mirage ledge. 3 cruxes separated by rests.

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

2. 20m (-) Garry Phillips bolted an extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). However this version is mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Trouser Snake.

A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel! Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake. Clip some cams as the start is easy but delicate and unprotected.

1. Carefully up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.

2. (15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".

A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of World Party. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. 'Almost' a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't.

Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree. The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still a good 26M1 by pulling past the jump. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 very old bolts in it and is an open project.

A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.

1. 28m (25) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge (60m rope), or 38m to ground (70m rope)). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

2. 15m (26) Bring a bolt plate for the belay setup; there's a carrot which lets you get comfy in the cave and spend less time stuck on the uncomfortable hanging belay. A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts, trad, & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).

The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground.

Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground.

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

The obvious left to right traverse along the bottom left side of Spurt Wall.

Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug.

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

Stand start, big move to lip and mantle.

Sit start with udercling and crimp, up to edge and throw for sloper. Head left on slopers and mantle. Low right foot ledge is out. Bit crumbly but still worthy.

Sit start on jug, head up and traverse left on slopers to finish as for Stage Fright.

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

Left-trending line from a low sit-start into the finish of Elephant's Swing.

Another dynamic problem.

Wolf/Liew

Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #3 Camalot on long sling above crux.

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Sit-start and climb out of the cave. Top out through the gap through weird mantel. V3-4 if you drop off the jug, V5 if you top out. Beware chossy hold/chockstone on top out.

Start as for Scary Monster and traverse left from as high as the first pocket, around the arête and up the slab.

Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'.

Callum

A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.

Start as for 'Cave Club' and head left.

Hiroaki

Name History: Affenschaukel - German feminine noun meaning looped plait (Brit) or braid (US).

A direct route up the smooth orange wall. Several huge dynamic moves, and is very well protected despite appearances. Rebolted 2017. A hold may have come off this route making it harder

standing start on crimp and gaston. (much harder sit start looks good)

Rail to jug over rooflet (via blank wall). Fuel up the rocket boosters!

Hard 3 moves - Sit start still waiting to be done

The original line (24) traversed left and then back right, avoiding the dyno. The direct version powers straight up past 3 FHs.

Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route.

Eat your spinach for the top!

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top.

Crux slab hold may have broken.

Sit-start up just right of arete - watch out for the block below. Some holds seems to be missing.

Sit start as for Green Destiny. Make the same big move to start and then traverse right on good holds to top out on slopers.

Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!!

V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start

An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers!

If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!).

Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun!

Behind Gobsmacker. Sit start at edges. Long move left to flat rail then up through positive holds to top out.

Climb most of 'Croatian Cow', keep traversing around the nose, to mantle onto the slab.

Up using the crack. Sit start for hard variant.

Stand start from middle of slab then climb up and top out.

Gaston moves. Watch your head.

Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat.

The lowest of the lowballs. Sit start 2m to the right of This Way Up with a LH input crimp and RH sidepull. Pull on and try to keep from hitting the boulder behind you. Slap RH to another sidepull and up to peak.

Jump start to slab.

Grampians Bouldering Festival channel

Arete to left of Giddy Up. Stand start and climb the arete on its right side. Avoid the loose/broken hold at head height.

Sit start on big jug hole of Sydney Highrise and climb left to jug pockets and left again to smaller pockets to finish up French Toast Direct.

Technical highball.

Sit start with right hand at starting holds of 'Grand Discovery', then work left to join the seam of 'Discovery'. Not a lot of new moves, but worth checking out if this area gets opened again!

Sit start on the right side of the scoop. Make a big move up the face to a crimp and big edge. Continue to the top.

Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?)

Sit start on the block and seam under the small rooflet. Move up to gaston and make a big move to the scoop.

Sit start matched in bucket jug on left side of prow. Bust out right and compress up. S1m1an

Start with LH edge and RH slopey pinch. Traverse 3m right on the horizontal weakness and bust straight up the face on a crimp and chicken heads and an easy mantle. Fantastic line!

Start at the good jugs near the left most of the big pockets. Cross to a deep pocket and jump for the lip. Careful of the landing.

Start in the big juggy double barrel pockets 2m right of the Seam Grip exit. Make a big throw to jugs and top out.