Begehungen in West Face haben Beta

A pretty cool climb, get on it while the holds and gear placements are clean. Easy enough to use the two carrots above hangover for the anchor.

Deadrope. Happy with the pro on this practice. Extended No4 up high in big crack. (Possible small wire on right). Orange totem in small crack on right. Black totem above the orange. Crux move. Then Red totem in same crack. Extended Number 5 in big crack on left. Amazing wire on right. Extended Green totem in dodgy horizontal under roof. Purple totem extended in break under anchor. Top

Deadrope.

Got the willies and down climbed.

Left the ground with 2 each of #3, #4, #5. While lowering, the rope bumped a #4 cam and it was totally stuck. Could only move one lobe a few mm and it was looking very grim. Placed a #3 just above it, clipped it to my harness and bounced on it while applying light force on stuck cam and it came free!

An experience. Groveling, gear jamming on the wall preventing your leg moving

Pete Whittaker style start was great. Used 2x #5, 1 each #3 & #4 cams

Like a warm hug.

Will come back with large cams for the lead ascent. Pulled a chunk of rock off on the 1st try.

Got stuck on the shelf hah!

Warmup

Even after several more years of experience, on return, I still found this very difficult.

Wet conditions, still plenty fun!

The beginning is a little harder for a newbie due to erosion + wet conditions today

Made the same mistake and avoided the crux. Need to repeat and keep right of the bolts.

Went into this a bit cocky after sending Crawdad. Slipped below the second bolt and banged my knee. Got back to the ground to watch Ethan make light work of it.

Ethan projecting this so had a go while he rested. Very tricky up the first blank section to the undercling. Didn't make it to the undercling.

A great route and very satisfying when you can put the moves together.

Looking at the description I think I went left of the bolts and avoided the crux.

Good warm up route before heading to the main west face.

This rock climb requires rock climbing

Second bolt recess leverages the biner on the rock just below

Feeling more confident with the moves up to the second bolt. Hoping to get it next time without falling or resting.

Seconded it so Kirra could have a go at multipitch/top belaying

Nice lil jug haul to warm up

Variant. Direct start at tricky offwidth then right up arete between Nursery and Nurlegs. fun. Prob grade 14.

Years after I bailed on this I tried it again today. The blank section without footholds is really challenging. Very interesting to see how each of us today was using a different beta for the crux, 4 different ways to do it!

Second attempt. The start is strenuous.

Yeh, enjoyed this once I decided to start left instead of right. Left again after the 2nd bolt was a left leg hook around the corner grovel, but got there clean. Short, pumpy, but fun

Multiple attempts over multiple years, this again felt impossible for my short stature. Defeated and cussing

feelin' good to be back on real rock

Lots of fun to zipper up.

Felt hard but to be honest the moves around the second carot felt the hardest. The section where the 20 goes to the left of the 17 felt a bit strong but I wouldnt wanna see those final moves on something graded 17.

Direct start using the crack on the right side of anglic. Hexes and nuts only.

Took big fall at crux

Only used nuts and hexes

Took direct start

Dead rope. Placed gear on top rope.

Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.

Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.

Deadrope. Placed gear on TR.

First 20 tick. Tried to back up with a lead but blew an a3 pulley as I pulled onto the bottom row of crimps. Six weeks rehab. Maybe warm up properly next time.

Little Kiera session after work!

Couple slaps, holding the swing felt impossible. Pretty technical landing foot and toe at the same time. Next time.

Hard. Didn't use good feet to right on crux