Begehungen in Sektor Tequila

Finally sent it.

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.

Very nice warm up

Feels a little harder than Die Schlinge because of very polished footholds. But very nice!! After fourth quickdraw stay right the small looking undercling is very good for left. At the top traverse right with the feet and bump up with right hand very far right where it looks like there might be a ledge (there is one but you cannot really see it from below)

Remember after third quickdraw to put left foot a tiny bit under right foot. Then side pull on the right. Before jug on the right take crimp on the left. Then right hand to good crimp. Left hand to side pull. Foot up high left the highest possible. Then go dynamically to jug.

Too weak today and too scared to clip the fourth quick draw 🌶️

Felt harder than Drunk as a Skunk today with all the polished footholds. One try to remember the moves and then two tries falling at the last move with two different betas.

little bit scary exit

Nice warm up route

New beta: take the right lower foothold then go to sidepull which is below the chalked one (and it has a hole on the left to use as a pinch. Then left foot to the top foothold right foot very far right (to the upper good foothold. Then go up to the good ledge (all the way up. Then traverse to the right to restposition on good feet and crimp. Rest a long long time. Then left hand to Gaston, right hand to Gaston. Left foot far left. Right foot up. Go to finger hole. Right foot up, left foot left. Take intermediate on the right left foot higher. Then right hand all the way up into double finger hole (the upper right part). Left hand matches into gold hole. Clip. Right foot right but stay down. Right hand to the good sidepull on the right. Left foot to turn in to the right (left side at the wall). Then left hand takes intermediate and crimp on the left. Clip (QuickDraw has to be a bit longer). Right hand into jug sidepull. Left foot high up to turn in to the right again. Left hand to hold in the middle, right foot far to the right. Right hand to hold on the right (not super good). Left foot up to the inner foothold right foot very high up. A bit dynamic to top jug.

Was definitely too hard for a flash as first route of the day, then tried it again at the end of the day, but didn't have enough power left.

Nice but very polished

Good warum for next time. Fell on the very last hard move. Don't forget the small foothold that is very central but high for right foot. After using the very far right black foothold.

Very nice route, would be a great first 9- to sent. Pre clip the first bolt because it is a bit scary. Then go right to clip the first bolt. Then down again to rest. Afterwards go left. Left foot to the big slopy hole that is super black. Right foot higher up Right hand to the very end of the vertical ledge then left foot higher up on the left face. And left hand into very good crimpy side pull. With right to little crimp. Left bump into undercling and then go to the jug on the left. Rest. Switch left foot so that it is on the very right of the foothold. Go with left hand into undercling. Then with right into jug (it is more juggy on the right. Right foot onto small foothold on the very right. Left hand matches, clip. Switch feet . Left foot onto good foothold above. Right hand to the very right into the side/slightly underclingy knubby thing. Right foot up and left hand into crumbly ledge. Right hand to good handhold with tickmark. Short rest is possible here. Left foot high up. Turn in. Left hand to big Gaston (shoulder move). Right foot to crazy good big ledge on the right. Left hand matches to Gaston. Left foot to little black knob on the left. Right foot more right onto black little foothold same height roughly as good ledge. Left hand into finger pocket. Right foot high up onto good crumbly ledge handhold from before. Right hand into finger hole further up (thumb goes into the other fingerhole. Match with left into adjacent fingerhole. Turn in so that right side faces the wall. Clip, then right foot to the right, left foot slightly up and right hand bumps into good sidepinch/hold. Left hand goes into next slot above it. Left foot high up. Right foot up and right hand into good side pull. Left hand matches. Right hand into even better side pull above. Left foot high up (turn in so that left outer side faces the wall. Go up with left, left foot needs to go slightly higher on small foothold. Right hand to next chalked handhold which is right next to the lady handhold. Right foot up and more right. Dynamic move to jug. Match and the route is actually over.

Key beta -- Use the upper foothold at the crux, not the lower!