Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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Mo 2. Okt 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mysophobie - mit Lea, Chantalle | 12m, 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil - mit Lea, Chantalle | 12m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille - mit Lea, Chantalle | 12m, 4 | ||||
5.5 | ★ La lili - mit Lea, Chantalle | 12m, 5 | ||||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ C'est beau, man! - mit Lea, Chantalle | 8 | ||||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Clair de lune - mit Lea, Chantalle | 17m, 7 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Début d’un temps nouveau - mit Lea, Chantalle | 17m, 7 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Je s’appellais Grout - mit Lea, Chantalle | 17m, 8 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Surprise sur prises - mit Lea, Chantalle | 20m, 10 | ||||
Di 12. Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite | |||||
5.10- | ★ Unknown | ★ Gut | ||||
Fr 8. Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 21. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - mit Léa | |||||
Gave it two tries from the ground. New highpoint: the jug before the last bolt.
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5.10- | ★ Unknown - mit Léa | ★ Gut | ||||
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
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Sa 19. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct - mit Yasmina | 20m | ||||
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
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5.9 | ★ 5.95 - mit Yasmina | |||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite - mit Yasmina | |||||
Start of the line was wet so we aided to the first overlap and worked the moves ground up to the chains. Well protected. A flake marked with an X might come out soon-ish but held my weight fine.
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Sa 24. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes - mit Léa | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Super humid day made this climb's crux interesting. We were also swarmed with little black flies. They chased us off the cliff after this climb.
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Mi 14. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.9 | ★ 5.95 | |||||
5.11c | Fruit d'homme | |||||
Fell on the move to gain the arete (missed a hold).
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5.11b | La Poule | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.12a/b | Jambe droite | |||||
Worked the first crux (overhang), then retreated two bolts from the top.
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So 7. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct | 20m | ||||
Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
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Fr 14. Apr 2023 - Quebec City | ||||||
Champlain | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Miroir | 9m | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Plaisir d'amour | |||||
Mi 7. Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Grandes Dalles | ||||||
Voie normale | 400m | |||||
We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.
Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min |
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5.7 | ★★ Sport 400 | 400m | Durchschnitt | |||
Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.
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Mo 5. Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
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Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.
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So 21. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Serpentin | ||||||
5.9 |
Serpentin
1
5.9
90m
2
5.6
| 90m | ||||
Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.
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5.10a | ★★ Microgravité | 35m, 17 | ||||
Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.
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So 21. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
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With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.
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Sa 20. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.9 | ★ 5.95 | |||||
Slipped (wet rock) coming out of the crux,
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5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
French freed the crux. Holds were slipery under the rain. The rest was mostly dry or damp so still climbable
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Di 2. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
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Di 26. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.10 | ★ Unknwon left side | 10m, 5 | ||||
Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.
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5.9 5.10- | ★ Unknown | ★ Gut | ||||
Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.
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5.12d 5.12d/13a | ★★★ Abominable | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Hard... Took about a dozen or so falls making my way up. Linked the first 3 bolts. Crux will be the start of the headwall for me. Great holds out right for the last two bolts.
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5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!
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So 10. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Cap Blanc | ||||||
5.12a | Propriété Privée | |||||
Fell at the 3rd, 5th and 7th bolt. Nice movement with a good rest, once you can actually stand on it. Passing the roof isn't bad with a good finger lock.
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5.10b 5.10b/c | Hanche Gauche | |||||
Fell at the 3rd bolt, holds aren't obvious but with the right beta, the move, although quite sportish, isn't that bad. The ending sequence is beautiful.
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5.9 | ★ 5.95 | |||||
The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.
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Sa 9. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Le Vieux Quai (Baie-Saint-Paul) | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Right Route | 8m, 7 | ||||
5.8 | Middle route | 15m, 5 | ||||
Bad bolting in the lower section. The upper section is dirty with large loose boulder. Dangerous to climb. Bailed on a tree.
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5.6 | ★ Right Route | 8m, 7 | ||||
5.7 | Right Route (Direct) | 8m | ||||
Do 7. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Le Vieux Quai (Baie-Saint-Paul) | ||||||
5.7 | Right Route (Direct) | 8m | ||||
Di 5. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Grandes Dalles | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
1
5.3
400m
3
5.6
4
5.6
6
5.7
| 400m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
We climbed as a party of three with two people new to long multi-pitch climbing but who had good prior knowledge of techniques. 3.5h base to top, 1.5h rapelling. No ropes stuck. Efficient manipulations.
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Do 19. Mai 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Mont Wright Le Damier | ||||||
5.6 | Le Damier 1 - Crack Jack | 8m | ||||
Fr 6. Mai 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Mont Wright Secteur principal | ||||||
5.11 | Sans nom | 10m | ||||
Took two falls on the way up.
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Fr 6. Mai 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Mont Wright Le Damier | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Le Damier 2 - Crack 4 Jack | 8m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 1. Mai 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Champlain | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 | 9m | ||||
So 17. Apr 2022 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Home Cliff | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little Yellow Fucker | 10m | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 8. Apr 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Champlain | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Chemine 1 | 9m | ||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 | 9m | ||||
Mi 6. Apr 2022 - Quebec City | ||||||
Mont Wright Le Damier | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Le Damier 2 - Crack 4 Jack | 8m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mi 27. Okt 2021 - Quebec City | ||||||
Mont Wright Secteur principal | ||||||
5.11 | Sans nom | 10m | ||||
5.9 | ★ L'arête | 10m | ||||
5.10- | ★★ Depronfondis | 17m | ||||
Idk if this is this route. I went to check inside the roof and follow the right side of it. Did have much time so I downclimbed to the ground.
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So 10. Okt 2021 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Hélios | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Vol de mort | |||||
TR'd the first 5-6 bolts. Trying to figure out the holds. Possible project.
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So 10. Okt 2021 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Atlas | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Apesanteur | 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 9. Okt 2021 - Mont Baldy | ||||||
Mur Principal | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Ulysse | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Two more tries up this one. Had trouble with the opening section and worked it out. Ended up linking from the 4th move to the top... Next attempt I fell on the crux. Getting closer.
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5.11b | ★★ Monument Builder | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 9. Okt 2021 - Mont Baldy | ||||||
Secteur Grenouillage | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Miss Baldy | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 25. Sep 2021 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Hestia | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Roger à l'école | 18m, 8 | ||||
Sa 25. Sep 2021 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Rhéa | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Safety Dance | 37m, 18 | ||||
Linked the two pitches. Second one is not as great at creates lowering problems (fine for rappel with a 70m and rope stretch). I'd recommend just doing the first one.
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5.9 | ★★★ In 2 The Void | 35m, 16 | ||||
Great climb, well protected. Good ambiance.
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So 5. Sep 2021 - Kamouraska | ||||||
Amphithéatre | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Tintin au Congo | |||||
5.7 | ★ Capitaine Hadock | |||||
So 5. Sep 2021 - Kamouraska | ||||||
Amphithéatre Hommage a Radoth | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Liaison d'office | 10m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
5.9 | Arrête-moi ca | 10m, 4 | Durchschnitt | |||
So 5. Sep 2021 - Kamouraska | ||||||
Amphithéatre | ||||||
5.5 | La vache enragée | 8m | ||||
5.7 | ★ Initiation | 15m | ||||
5.5 | ★ Cryptogramme en folie | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.10b | Le tango des tomates | 8m, 3 | ||||
5.4 | ★ Spar-en-o | 15m, 6 | Vergiss es | |||
5.6 | ★ La princesse des neurones | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.7 | Le sexe des anges | 8m, 3 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Sans foi ni loi | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.9 | ★ Le menhir | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.5 | ★ Le nez sifflera trois fois | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.5 | ★★ 2 pour 1 | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.5 | ★ Le gros menhir | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.6 5.3 | Unknown 2 | |||||
5.7 | ★ Laché lousse | 8m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5.6 | ★ Marianne | 15m, 7 | ★ Gut | |||
5.6 | ★ Dalle d'attente | 30m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Surprisingly long and fun route!
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5.9 | ★★★ Tintin au Tibet | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
5.7 | ★★ Le roi des synapses | 20m, 8 | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Dominique Goineau | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.9 | ★ La valse des légumes | 12m, 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Le nouveau nez | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ La renversée | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.9 | ★ Tache noire | 10m, 4 | ||||
Mo 23. Aug 2021 - Kamouraska | ||||||
Amphithéatre | ||||||
5.12a | Graffiti (salle d'attente) | 15m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
5.12b 5.12c | ★★ VO2 max | 14m, 5 | ||||
Three tries. One boulder problem with many beta options.
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5.6 | ★★ Dominique Goineau | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.8 | ★★ Le baiser de Mélanie | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5.6 | ★ La princesse des neurones | 15m, 6 |