Suchen in:
| Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 25. Sep 2022 | ||||
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Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
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| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 22. Jun 2022 | ||||
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Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.
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| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
1
5.3
400m
2
5.4
3
5.6
4
5.6
5
5.6
6
5.7
7
5.7
| 400m | Charlevoix |  | Di 30. Aug 2022 | ||||
| 5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- mit
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | Charlevoix | Mi 25. Okt 2023 | |||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.9
After backing off my partner went for it and took 3 mega whips. Ended up going around the crux (5.5), the move wasn't too sketchy if I remember correctly. | 110m | Charlevoix |  | Mo 13. Sep 2021 | ||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
- mit
Élie
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.5
| 120m | Charlevoix | | Sa 3. Jul 2021 | ||||
| 5.11b |
La Poule
| Charlevoix | Mi 14. Jun 2023 | ||||||
| 5.10+ |
Jambe Gauche
| Charlevoix |  | So 18. Jun 2023 | |||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
| 18m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 2. Aug 2022 | ||||
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Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
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| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 26. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!
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| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
- mit
Nelson
| Charlevoix | | So 18. Jun 2023 | |||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker |  | Mo 13. Mai 2024 | ||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
| 20m | Charlevoix | So 7. Mai 2023 | |||||
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Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
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| 5.10b/c ~5.10c |
Hanche Gauche
| Charlevoix | | Mo 13. Mai 2024 | |||||
| 5.10 |
★ Unknwon left side
| 10m, 5 | Charlevoix | Di 26. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.
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| 5.9 5.10- |
★ Unknown
| Charlevoix | ★ Gut | Di 26. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Microgravité
| 35m, 17 | Charlevoix | So 21. Aug 2022 | |||||
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Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.
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| 5.7 |
★★★ Wet Dreams (Wet Dreams P1)
1
5.7
| 110m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Mo 1. Aug 2016 | |||
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Group of 3, so only did pitch 1. Excellent climbing on a beautiful hand crack. Long, too. > 50m.
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| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
1
Vorstieg durch
Dom
2
Vorstieg durch
Greg
| 110m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | So 2. Okt 2016 | |||
|
Didn't bother to do the last pitch
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| 5.9 |
Aero
| 20m | Charlevoix | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.
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| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
| Charlevoix | So 10. Jul 2022 | ||||||
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The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.
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| 5.9 |
Groundhog day
| 10m, 2 | Charlevoix | Di 26. Jul 2022 | |||||
|
Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.
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| 5.9 5.9 PG |
★★ La vache folle
| 28m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 6. Aug 2022 | ||||
|
Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux
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| 5.9 |
Serpentin
1
5.9
90m
2
5.6
| 90m | Charlevoix | So 21. Aug 2022 | |||||
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Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.
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| 5.9 PG |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 110m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.9 PG |
★★ La vache folle
| 28m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.9 ~5.10a |
★ 5.95
| Charlevoix | ★ Gut | | Mo 13. Mai 2024 | ||||
| 5.6 |
★ Patinoire (Patinoire P1)
1
| 150m | Charlevoix | ★ Gut | | So 31. Jul 2016 | |||
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Didn't find the start, so probably started on "Snowmobile" and then crossed over part way up. Still, some good climbing, and about 55m the way I did it.
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| 5.8 5.8 PG |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
| 25m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | So 2. Okt 2016 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Pinocchio
1
5.8
135m
2
5.8
| 140m | Charlevoix | So 23. Aug 2020 | |||||
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The first few moves are wonderful (through the chimney) then ok climbing to a bolted anchor. To climb in three pitches: Keep climbing and build a gear anchor below the obvious crack with a nose (pinocchio). Second pitch is great and rejoins the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'
Didn't climb the last pitch, having just come down from 'La Directe de l'ours' |
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| 5.8 |
★ Patinoire
| 150m | Charlevoix | Sa 26. Sep 2020 | |||||
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Last pitch is not worth it. If it had a bolted anchor it would be. Bushwacking through the trees is a pain and overpowers the joy of the first few moves of the pitch.
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| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
1
5.8
230m
2
5.6
3
5.5
4
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.4
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | So 27. Sep 2020 | ||||
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A great "adventurous" climb. Route finding is tricky but ultimately all leads to easier climbing. Did the 5.8 variant at the end.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Pinocchio
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Sa 21. Aug 2021 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | | So 22. Aug 2021 | |||
| 5.7 5.8 |
★★ Astro
| 85m | Charlevoix | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.
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| 5.7 5.8 |
Fantaisie Spatiale
| 100m | Charlevoix | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9
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| 5.8 |
★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents
| Charlevoix | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | ||||||
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Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Pinocchio
2
5.8
| 140m | Charlevoix | Mo 11. Jul 2022 | |||||
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Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.
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| 5.8 |
Dora l'exploratrice
| 250m | Charlevoix | Di 9. Aug 2022 | |||||
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Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.
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| 5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
| Charlevoix | So 21. Aug 2022 | ||||||
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With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.
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| 5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents
| Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Mi 28. Jul 2021 | ||||
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Nice easy ish route, be careful of the loose blocks on the first pitch
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| 5.8 ~5.7 |
Middle route
- mit
Laurie Hammond Desjardins
| 15m, 5 | Charlevoix | Durchschnitt |  | So 25. Jun 2023 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
- mit
Gabriel Harvey
1
5.6
Vorstieg durch
Gabriel Harvey
3
5.8
Vorstieg durch
Gabriel Harvey
| Charlevoix | ★ Gut |  | Sa 19. Aug 2023 | ||||
|
Le rappel du dernier pitch doit se faire depuis l'arbre avec l'anneau de rappel. Notre corde de 70m etait trop courte pour rappel depuis le 1er relais.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
| 85m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Pinocchio
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
| 170m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Sa 9. Sep 2023 | |||
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P1: 5.7 (60-70 meters), P2: 5.7 (30 meters) P3 : 5.8 (50-60 meters).
There are a couple of tree belays with slings and cord on them but they can be hard to find. Start at the bottom of a very low angled slab which becomes slgihtly more vertical. We had 2 60s and simuled a for 10 meters but probably because my partner went off route. Second pitch ends with a walk through the bushes on the right of the cliff, just below a 5.11 arch. Third pitch is nice! The roof move on the third pitch is probably why this is 5.8. There are a couple of loose rocks on the third pitch so be mindful of this. |
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| 5.8 leicht |
★★ Pinocchio P1
- mit
Noah Boudreau-Richard
1
5.8
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★ Gut | | Do 31. Aug 2023 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- mit
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | Charlevoix | Di 10. Okt 2023 | |||||
| 5.7 5.7 PG |
★★ Voie d'evitement
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 30. Jul 2016 | |||
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2 pitches of excellent climbing, and a third pitch that was only good climbing. Despite what the guide says, do the 3rd pitch. It is no dirtier than many of the other climbs.
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| 5.7 5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
| 150m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | So 31. Jul 2016 | |||
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Apparently some tricky route finding on pitch 2 (a party on Saturday, and another on Sunday got it wrong), but I didn't find that a problem. Pitches 2 and 3 both had section that seemed hard for 5.7 (especially as compared to, say, Voie d'evitement or P1 of Wet Dreams). Rope drag management also important, as P2 and P3 both have some direction changes.
This was excellent climbing, with the most impressive section being the thin crack across the middle of a wide-open face. Just great. |
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| 5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
- mit
Michał Sz
1
5.6
Vorstieg durch
Ania
2
5.7
Vorstieg durch
Michal
3
5.5
Vorstieg durch
Ania
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut |  | Di 2. Aug 2016 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | So 12. Mai 2019 | ||||
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Beautiful climb with lots of different options.
P1: Climbed up the obvious hand crack on the right. Built an anchor around 10m below the bolted anchor (didn't see it).
P2: Climbed rightward to a beautiful belay ledge (around where the climb separated into the 5.8/5.8+/5.7 variant). Built a natural anchor around 10m below the bolted anchor.
P3: Tried to follow the 5.8+ line but ended up in the 5.7 line. Climbed a little to much to the right and ended up off route. Belayed off of a tree.
P4: Small "get to the top" easy climbing.
We reclimbed the last pitch of the route after the first rappel just because it looked so sweat. And it was! It is possible to rappel from the route with one 70m rope but not with a single 60m! Unless you leave gear or use pretty sketchy looking "trees". |
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| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 400m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | So 6. Okt 2019 | ||||
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Simul-climbed in two pitches in 2h. 27 draws.
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| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 150m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | So 23. Aug 2020 | ||||
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Had done the first half and ended up off route last time.
Managed to not get lost this time! Last pitch is simply wonderful. |
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| 5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
1
5.6
120m
2
5.7
3
5.6
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 5. Sep 2020 | ||||
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Great route. First pitch is probably the nicest crack in the area. Second and third are good too. On the last pitch, when you get to a big detached block, look left for the anchor. Going up will get you stuck!
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| 5.7 |
★★ Voie de Rappel
| 150m | Charlevoix | Sa 26. Sep 2020 | |||||
|
46m
Way better climb than the name suggests!
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| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 400m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Sa 26. Sep 2020 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
- mit
Isabelle Scott
| 400m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Di 28. Sep 2021 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf!
| 55m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 8. Jul 2022 | ||||
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Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.
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| 5.7 5.7 G |
★★ Derobade
| 25m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 2. Aug 2022 | ||||
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Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.
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| 5.7 5.7 R |
★★★ Granuleuse
| 350m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 7. Sep 2022 | ||||
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Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.
Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant. |
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| 5.7 |
Sinus
- mit
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | Charlevoix | Do 18. Mai 2023 | |||||
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Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
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| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
| 400m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Mo 8. Jun 2020 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
| 400m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Mo 13. Jul 2020 | |||
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Our single rope got stucked in the first rappel and we ripped out tagline trying to retreive it. It was probably caused by bad route finding (we ended up in the trees). It was my 2nd time on this route and did not expect to have this kind of issue. Had to call for a rescue around 10 pm, got off the mountain safely around 5-6 am thanks to the team at the base.
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| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
- mit
Chantalle
| 160m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | So 25. Jun 2023 | ||||
|
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
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| 5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
- mit
Steeve
| 120m | Charlevoix | | Sa 17. Sep 2016 | ||||
| 5.7 |
★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf!
| 55m | Charlevoix | | So 1. Aug 2021 | ||||
|
Nice route, originally graded 5.8 but felt softer than that. I think I had triples in .2 to .5 but only used doubles. Smaller then .2 was useful too if I remember correctly
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| 5.7 PG |
★★ Voie d'evitement
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
| 150m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.7 |
★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf!
| 55m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.7 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | | Sa 30. Jul 2016 | |||
|
Did the direct start to pitch 4, making the climb a bit harder (5.7). Other than this, generally comfortable 5.6 or so climbing.
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| 5.8 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
Vorstieg durch
Greg
2
Vorstieg durch
Greg
3
Vorstieg durch
Greg
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | So 4. Sep 2016 | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
1
Vorstieg durch
Greg
2
Vorstieg durch
Kush
3
Vorstieg durch
Kush
4
Vorstieg durch
Greg
| 210m | Charlevoix | ★ Gut | | Mo 5. Sep 2016 | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
| 210m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 11. Mai 2019 | ||||
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Interesting climb. Very good for trad multi pitch initiation (as the name says). Only climbed up to the headwall (back down because of meteorological conditions) but up to there, everything protects very nicely. Pitches are quite short (6 bolted anchors up to the headwall) so it is possible to link a few together. With double 70m ropes you can rappel down from the anchor at the headwall in only two raps.
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| 5.6 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 22. Aug 2020 | ||||
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Tricky route finding! Especially P2!
Pretty consistent at the grade. Technical moves feel like 5.8 but the angle brings it back down to 5.6 One chopped bolt at the last move of P4 feels like it should of stayed. |
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| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
| 210m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker |  | Do 2. Sep 2021 | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- mit
PN, Chieko H
| 210m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut |  | Sa 27. Mai 2023 | |||
| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- mit
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 27. Mai 2023 | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- mit
Laurie Hammond Desjardins
| 210m | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut | | Fr 23. Jun 2023 | |||
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Very fun. Found the anchors for the first 6 pitches, but couldn't find them for the last four ( Which I doubled with a couple safe rumours). Pockets everywhere for easy hand holds. Took about 6h total because we did it on the safer side. No clue how to go down with rappel after the sixth pitch. All good with a single rack with 0.3-0.75 doubled. Was able to fit a #6 and a #5, but could have done without. Road under is noisy and anchors are far away so communication with second might be hard. Cell phone coverage on the mountain. Make sure you follow the road and not the trail to get to the start. Bring good shoes for the way down as it is about a dirty 40 deg slope. Search for the Cairns on the left to go down.
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| 5.6 ~5.7 |
★ Right Route
- mit
Laurie Hammond Desjardins
| 8m, 7 | Charlevoix | ★ Gut | | So 25. Jun 2023 | |||
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Crux just before the relay.
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.6 |
Les jumelles
- mit
Léa
| 70m | Charlevoix | Fr 25. Aug 2023 | |||||
|
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
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| 5.6 ~5.5 |
Les jumelles
- mit
Élie
| 70m | Charlevoix | | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
|
P1 : 25-30 meters. Might be longer if you start at the base of the diagonal crack. Gear anchor
P2 : 30-35 meters |
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Voie normale
| 400m | Charlevoix | Mi 7. Sep 2022 | ||||||
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We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.
Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min |
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| 5.10- |
Das ist mir wurst
- mit
Léa
1
5.10-
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.6
| 250m | Charlevoix | Mo 29. Mai 2023 | |||||
|
Definitely more sustained than Hals-und. The first pitch is not the main attraction and definitely guards the entry to the climb. The rest of the climb offers great, varied sections with good belays. Retreat is possible with double ropes until the P4 bolted anchor. Has been mostly cleaned until halfway through P5. Small gear on P1, standard double rack with a single #4. Never placed the #3. I linked P3 and P4 but good rope drag management is required.
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| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45
2
5.7
60
3
5.6
35
| 140m | Charlevoix |  | Di 19. Sep 2023 | ||||
| 5.10 5.10 PG |
★★★ Tache blanche
| 140m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker |  | So 4. Jul 2021 | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Petit pied
| 13m, 4 | Charlevoix | ★★ Sehr gut |  | Sa 4. Sep 2021 | |||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Gruyere
| 22m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | | Mo 5. Jul 2021 | |||
| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
| 160m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 1. Jul 2023 | |||
| 5.6 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | | Sa 3. Jul 2021 | |||
| 5.6 |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
5.6
170m
2
3
| 170m, 1 | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | | Sa 13. Aug 2022 | |||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
| 18m | Charlevoix | ★ Gut | Fr 8. Sep 2023 | ||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 14. Jun 2023 | |||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| Charlevoix | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 12. Sep 2023 | |||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
- mit
Yasmina
| 20m | Charlevoix | Sa 19. Aug 2023 | |||||
|
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
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| 5.10b PG |
Eclipse
| 28m | Charlevoix | Fr 8. Sep 2023 | |||||
|
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
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| 5.10- |
★ Unknown
- mit
Léa
| Charlevoix | ★ Gut | Mo 21. Aug 2023 | |||||
|
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
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