Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mo 13. Mai 2024 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b/c ~5.10c | Hanche Gauche | ||||||
5.9 ~5.10a | ★ 5.95 | ★ Gut | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
Sa 27. Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Get to work M.F.s | 25m | |||||
Di 23. Apr 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Transcanadienne | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Transcanadienne | 110m, 8 | ★ Gut | ||||
Mo 11. Mär 2024 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Plage | |||||||
5.8 | Salopette - mit Phil | 30m, 3 | |||||
Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.
|
|||||||
Mo 22. Jan 2024 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Offwidth crack | 5m | |||||
5.8 | ★ Chemine 1 | 9m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 | 9m | |||||
5.7 | ★ Chemine 3 | 9m | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Le tombeau | 11m | |||||
Sa 14. Okt 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.6 | Répète - mit Éli, Julien | 15m, 6 | |||||
Di 10. Okt 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- mit
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | |||||
So 1. Okt 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Epilogue | 26m | |||||
Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.8 | Nacho Libre | 30m | |||||
5.7 | ★ Batman | 25m | |||||
Mo 11. Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 G schwer | ★★★ Gaston Boston | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.6 G schwer |
★★★ La Granuleuse
1
2
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Sa 9. Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Passerelle | 170m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
P1: 5.7 (60-70 meters), P2: 5.7 (30 meters) P3 : 5.8 (50-60 meters).
There are a couple of tree belays with slings and cord on them but they can be hard to find. Start at the bottom of a very low angled slab which becomes slgihtly more vertical. We had 2 60s and simuled a for 10 meters but probably because my partner went off route. Second pitch ends with a walk through the bushes on the right of the cliff, just below a 5.11 arch. Third pitch is nice! The roof move on the third pitch is probably why this is 5.8. There are a couple of loose rocks on the third pitch so be mindful of this. |
|||||||
Mo 4. Sep 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tete a Papineau | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
5.8 | ★ Yoyo | 20m | ★ Gut | ||||
Do 31. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 leicht |
★★ Pinocchio P1
- mit
Noah Boudreau-Richard
1
5.8
| 140m | ★ Gut | ||||
So 27. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Mur des gauchistes | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ St Jean Batis' | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
Magnifique! Ne vous méprenez pas, le crux n'est pas le toit, mais plutôt un passage de dalle plus haut. Aux deux pockets avec cristaux, on peut passer à droite ou à gauche de la bolt. À gauche semble plus facile, mais il faut alors faire une traverse pour rejoindre la prochaine bolt. À droite est légèrement plus difficile, mais ça facilite grandement la progression par la suite. Je recommande de passer à droite.
|
|||||||
Fr 25. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 | Les jumelles - mit Léa | 70m | |||||
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
|
|||||||
Sa 19. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
- mit
Gabriel Harvey
1
5.6
Vorstieg durch
Gabriel Harvey
3
5.8
Vorstieg durch
Gabriel Harvey
| ★ Gut | |||||
Le rappel du dernier pitch doit se faire depuis l'arbre avec l'anneau de rappel. Notre corde de 70m etait trop courte pour rappel depuis le 1er relais.
|
|||||||
Sa 19. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Yoyo | 20m | ★ Gut | ||||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Antre du Dragon | |||||||
5.10a leicht | ★★★ Incandescence | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fougere a me plaire | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
So 6. Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||||
5.6 ~5.5 | Les jumelles - mit Élie | 70m | |||||
P1 : 25-30 meters. Might be longer if you start at the base of the diagonal crack. Gear anchor
P2 : 30-35 meters |
|||||||
Di 1. Aug 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Mont Wright Secteur principal | |||||||
5.9 leicht | ★★ (5.9 sans nom 3?) | 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Di 1. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Passerelle | |||||||
5.10d | Arête moé ça - mit Thomas | 15m | |||||
Di 1. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Horizon des événements | |||||||
5.8 R | Certifiee UIAA - mit Thomas | ||||||
Di 1. Aug 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Les Joyeux naufragés | |||||||
5.10c | SS Minnow | 25m, 1 | |||||
Do 20. Jul 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Plage | |||||||
5.9 | Polaris - mit Sylvain | ||||||
Fr 7. Jul 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Chemine 1 | 9m | ★ Gut | ||||
5.6 | ★ Chemine 2 | 9m | ★ Gut | ||||
Mo 3. Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme | 25m | |||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Pinocchio | 140m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours | 140m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 G | ★★ Voie de Rappel | 150m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Voie d'evitement | 120m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse | 170m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||||
5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams | 110m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Batman | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Maquistador | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Epilogue | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Wet Dream | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Sa 1. Jul 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Fougère à me plaire | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tete a Papineau | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fougere a me plaire | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
So 25. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Le Vieux Quai (Baie-Saint-Paul) | |||||||
5.6 ~5.7 | ★ Right Route - mit Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 8m, 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Crux just before the relay.
|
|||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | Middle route - mit Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 15m, 5 | Durchschnitt | ||||
So 25. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee - mit Chantalle | 160m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
|
|||||||
Fr 23. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - mit Laurie Hammond Desjardins | 210m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Very fun. Found the anchors for the first 6 pitches, but couldn't find them for the last four ( Which I doubled with a couple safe rumours). Pockets everywhere for easy hand holds. Took about 6h total because we did it on the safer side. No clue how to go down with rappel after the sixth pitch. All good with a single rack with 0.3-0.75 doubled. Was able to fit a #6 and a #5, but could have done without. Road under is noisy and anchors are far away so communication with second might be hard. Cell phone coverage on the mountain. Make sure you follow the road and not the trail to get to the start. Bring good shoes for the way down as it is about a dirty 40 deg slope. Search for the Cairns on the left to go down.
|
|||||||
Fr 23. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.10b |
★★ Campanule
- mit
Cedrick, Simon
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
| 200m | |||||
So 18. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10+ | Jambe Gauche | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip - mit Nelson | ||||||
Mi 14. Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.11b | La Poule | ||||||
Mi 31. Mai 2023 - Quebec City | |||||||
Champlain | |||||||
5.7 schwer | ★★ Le tombeau | 11m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Used a cam #2 and a medium nut at the bottom and protected the top with a .4, a .5 and a .75.
|
|||||||
Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||||
5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- mit
PN, Chieko H
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation - mit PN, Chieko H | 210m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Party de brosse | 20m | |||||
Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Passerelle | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ RHS | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Do 18. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | |||||||
5.7 |
Sinus
- mit
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | |||||
Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
|||||||
So 7. Mai 2023 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10b | Agoraphobie Direct | 20m | |||||
Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
|
|||||||
So 25. Sep 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Atomic Limbo | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Long Lake Premium - mit Antoine | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
So 25. Sep 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Célébration | |||||||
5.10b | Trip à trois - mit Antoine | 30m | |||||
Sa 10. Sep 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Arène | |||||||
5.9 | Aguirre colère de Dieu | 25m | |||||
5.11a | ★ Pirates de l'air | 23m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Wet Dream | 25m, 10 | |||||
5.7 | ★ Batman | 25m | |||||
Mi 7. Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Les Grandes Dalles | |||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Granuleuse | 350m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.
Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant. |
|||||||
Voie normale | 400m | ||||||
We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.
Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min |
|||||||
Mo 5. Sep 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Mur des gauchistes | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Atlantis | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
So 21. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix Serpentin | |||||||
5.9 |
Serpentin
1
5.9
90m
2
5.6
| 90m | |||||
Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.
|
|||||||
5.10a | ★★ Microgravité | 35m, 17 | |||||
Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.
|
|||||||
So 21. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
| ||||||
With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.
|
|||||||
Di 9. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Secteur de Droite | |||||||
5.8 | Dora l'exploratrice | 250m | |||||
Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.
|
|||||||
Sa 6. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.9 5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux
|
|||||||
Di 2. Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
|
|||||||
5.7 5.7 G | ★★ Derobade | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.
|
|||||||
Do 28. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Mur des gauchistes | |||||||
5.11a | Tour de piste - mit JP | ||||||
5.10c/d?
|
|||||||
Di 26. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.10 | ★ Unknwon left side | 10m, 5 | |||||
Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.
|
|||||||
5.9 | Groundhog day | 10m, 2 | |||||
Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.
|
|||||||
5.9 5.10- | ★ Unknown | ★ Gut | |||||
Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.
|
|||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!
|
|||||||
Sa 23. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Gros Bonnet Principal | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Grimpe dans le piton - mit Vincent | 140m | |||||
Pitch 3 par "Purgatoire"
|
|||||||
Mo 11. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 5.8 | ★★ Astro | 85m | |||||
Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.
|
|||||||
5.9 | Aero | 20m | |||||
Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.
|
|||||||
5.10a |
★★ Pinocchio
2
5.8
| 140m | |||||
Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.
|
|||||||
5.7 5.8 | Fantaisie Spatiale | 100m | |||||
Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9
|
|||||||
5.8 | ★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents | ||||||
Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.
|
|||||||
So 10. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Cap Blanc | |||||||
5.9 | ★ 5.95 | ||||||
The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.
|
|||||||
Fr 8. Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | |||||||
Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf! | 55m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Very cool movement! Constant at the grade and good ambiance. Diserves more traffic.
|
|||||||
Mo 4. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long La Croisée des Chemins | |||||||
5.9 | Scrub Machine - mit Cyn | 15m, 6 | Vergiss es | ||||
Mo 4. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long l'Antre du Dragon | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Fellation | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mo 4. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Aéro-Tango | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Super mimi - mit Cyn | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Mo 4. Jul 2022 - Portneuf | |||||||
Lac Long Margot | |||||||
5.10a | Taille de Guepes | 3 |