Begehungen in Capitale Nationale

Thought I was on something else so I mostly climbed off route. Went around to the left on P1 (5.8). Climbed most of P2 but traversed over to the left before the final moves lowering the grade slightly. Worked on the crux sequence of P3 (BEAUTIFUL!). Aid climbed 10-12m after the crux and freed the rest. Rappelled from the anchor of P3

Great climb with Dom and Mat. Took 6h round trip. We climbed a few variants by accident.

P1 we climbed up another slab on the right and traversed back over to the anchor. P2 we climbed past the intended anchor into the left variant of P3 P3 we climbed up the slab to downclimb traverse the slab back to the anchor P4 left variant, past the anchor, gear belay in the wider section P5 short pitch to the anchor below the bolted slab variant of P6 P6 horrible slab of doom (took a fall while seconding) P7-8-9 were on track

Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.

Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.

Still a little drity (we broke a 50cm*50cm*20cm piece off). Pretty airy pitch, nice moves up the overhanging arete. This is a one move wonder with a pretty far reach. I worked the move until I found the way to do it. Lowered and redpointed the pitch. 5'9", +1 ape index.

Took the Macaque-Attaque variation.

#soft

Grosse tablette tombée = la voie n'est plus la même ? #soft

Beautiful line, great jams and sporty roof section

So good.

Obvious crux at high bolt, rest is much easier.

5.10c/d?

Magnifique! Ne vous méprenez pas, le crux n'est pas le toit, mais plutôt un passage de dalle plus haut. Aux deux pockets avec cristaux, on peut passer à droite ou à gauche de la bolt. À gauche semble plus facile, mais il faut alors faire une traverse pour rejoindre la prochaine bolt. À droite est légèrement plus difficile, mais ça facilite grandement la progression par la suite. Je recommande de passer à droite.

Nice crux

Fun!