Routen in Tantalus Wall

This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.

1. P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d). Most people avoid this pitch now by pulling up a fixed rope.

2. P2, Begin at the tree, Steep corner with two bolts to bolted belay (11a).

3. P3, climb daylight crack 5.9

4. P4, traverse down and right along a slopey ledge to a bolted belay. 5.10b

5. P5, climb the long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).

6. P6, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).

7. P7, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).

8. P8, The autobahn, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).

9. P9, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).

10. P10, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).

11. P11, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).

12. P12, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).

Fixed anchors at every belay.

Express Lane is the preferred finish and breaks off at P8.

1. P1. 5.11a Start as for P8 of Freeway, step down to L-facing corner then up and left to belay on arete.

2. P2. 5.10c Follow arete up past a couple of bolts and some trad, to belay as for P10 of Freeway, can be linked with P11 of Freeway.

Traversing undercling crack to reach the base of Cerberus. Marc-Andre's a sandbagger!