Begehungen in Europe als Retreat

Leider sehr moosig und krautig.

Major whip taken lol listed as a HS In the book and by rockfax

Am 3. BH zurückgezogen ...

Fak,dalec do stanta...nism upala vpet🫣

Had a crack at this ultimate classic climb.

We have decided to name a new variant:

"Don(key)" (V+ max, 450m)

simply get lost a few times, clip the wrong anchors, arrive at the halfway ledge too late, then abseil down the 1st half of the route, thus spending almost as much time on the wall is if you were to do the entire climb.

Hasta la vista, baby

First alpine Route with benno! Had to bail after the 5th Pitch. Awesome weather!

Nach den SSL keinerlei Motivation mehr clean & sketchy weiter zu machen.

Return from fifth pitch - no moral to continue through unprotected (but beautiful) crack. We returned to the top of the fourth pitch, continued 100m more in the right and climbed to the ridge of the Vecchia by some other (route (two pitches through slabs and short chimney, about 5b or 5c)

Retreated after first pitch (too large runouts in the slab for our fragile moral)

Rain and thunderstorm

Rain and thunderstorm

Rückzug am Standplatz nach der 3. Seillänge, die Suche nach dem Einstieg gestaltete sich als schwieriger als gedacht. Aufgrund des ggf. schlechten Wetters das vorausgesagt war haben wir den Rückzug angetreten und abgeseilt.

schon zu platt von den vorherigen Wegen

Route next to it is gone. First two pinches nice but some moss... approach bit uncomfortable with the ravine. Left after patch 2 due to thunder approaching. Well bolted we didn't need friends.

Rain & hail

Oben komplett brüchig

Nass. Wir kommen wieder!

Climbed the first crack up until the end which was too far up. Should have traversed earlier. Used already most of my medium and big friends. Need to come back with double rack of friends and/or better trad skills!:)

Flucht vor dem Gewitter am ersten Ring

Route ist ok, lief auch gut bis ins obere Drittel, aber es rieselt ständig trockene Erde runter und legt sich in Augen und Lunge :-(

Versuch der 1. SL An Schlüsselstelle (Dach) fehlen 5 cm Reichweite.

I had to bail because my partner was not able to climb around 1R. So I ended at 4R

Dreckig und zugewachsen. Scheint wohl keiner zu klettern. An der verrottenden Baumschlinge hab ich es dann gelassen. Der Stumpf treibt wie blöd und man sieht kaum den Fels (links ums Eck).

There were 4 people in front of us, which we only realised when talking to two of them at the first belay. They were terribly slow and when I had just finished the bulk of pitch 2, sitting uncomfortably mid-route on a chockstone waiting for them to clear the next belay, it became clear that this wouldn't happen any time soon. So eventually I climbed back down to the belay and we abseiled down since we didn't have too much time on our hands …

To the route itself: the first pitch was actually meant to be climbed in the chimney, but I didn't spot some of the hidden pitons and threads, so I climbed the pillar on the right and then traversed back into the chimney at a good piton. Interesting, but a bit scary. The second pitch is quite short with a funny tunnel section (you don't fit through with a backpack!) before the belay.

again retreated from the key part

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Das es eine Mixed Route ist merkt man spätestens wenn man den letzten Bolt 5m übersteigt und keinen weiteren finded ... das war sehr dumm. Also immer auf das "C" im führer achten. Tschüssi Exe du warst uns immer treu 😭

Ziemlich abenteuerliche Route

retreated after two pitches (thunderstorm)