Begehungen in Weißmain-Alb als Retreat

Bei jeder Bewegung gehen fünf Griffe und drei Tritte flöten

Gute Kletterei und großzügig abgesichert bis zu einer glatten Stelle unter dem Wandbuch. Ab hier dann nur noch Bruch und splittriger Fels. Rechts Richtung WB versucht, wieder riesen Ausbruch, 3 Meter Abgang in den selfmade Bühler. Hat mir dann gereicht. 💩

Sieht erst mal nicht schlecht aus, bis man dann direkt die ersten Brocken auf den Sicherer wirft. Abgang am zweiten Haken nach faustgroßem Trittausbruch. Ab dem Band dann gehofft, dass es vielleicht besser und fester wird - tja falsch gedacht. Dolomitenfeeling in dubiosem Fels und unschöner Kletterei - wenigstens gibt es genug Haken in die man nicht fallen will.

Am letzten ZH umgebaut, UL wäre eins weiter um die Ecke gewesen. Was für ein Müll.

nass

nass

The wet start didn't exactly inspire confidence, neither did the fact that the most important hold to get out from below the bulge seemed extremely brittle, followed by a reachy move into a slimy, lichen-filled pocket. Had to sit in the rope, managed to go on to the next bolt, but bailed there because all the lichen-covered slopers were still a bit too slimy. Didn't have a brush either.

I seconded until the first bolt to belay Christoph Rauch, but we had to call it a day at that point.

From the ground, it looked like the first ten meters would be the problematic part of this endeavour. Oh what wrong an assumption that should turn out to be. Despite it being chossy and dusty, it was easy and you can place a few solid pieces before reaching the bolt on the ledge. There, I already had to set up belay because the way up was blocked by thorns. Bovist brought up scissors and saw, so the journey could go on. Interesting passage up the diagonal ledge to the little rock chamber (original end of pitch 1). From there on, most of the holds were initially covered in (frozen) moss. Dug around a lot and finally found a good cam placement next to the slightly unreliable rock tunnel, so I pushed on and reached the slab beneath the final wall. Unfortunately, the slab, too, was covered in frozen moss, which broke away after standing on it for a few seconds. I quickly put a carabiner in the rusty ring at the end of the slab and backed it up with a small cam. By this time, I had slipped quite a few times already and I realized that I didn't have any more sensible gear on me for the last few meters of climbing. I tried a few times to get over the last steep bit, but had to retreat in the end; lowered off my cam and the rusty bolt.

Managed to clip the second bolt, but could not make it to anchor, I had no power left. The crack drained me a lot. Probably easier with a better technique..

Took some really nice falls while trying to get up!

Not exactly my kind of warm up route.. Fell while trying to clip the last bolt, I was super pumped.