Begehungen in Höllenstein

Mixed route of bolts, cams and nuts. Very green, sandy and high first bolt.

5.H von links anklettern, linke kleine schuppe dann rechten Fuß sauber stellen, mit links ins runde Loch fallen lassen und mit rechts weit hoch greifen, SICHER keine glatte 8

Long route with alpine touch but lots of bolts. A lot of vegetation and dirt in the route, since the crag is rarely visited; also some loose blocks.

Another well-protected route. The start looks overgrown, but the holds are actually free of moss; nevertheless quite damp today, but a good climb. Defined crux at the layback flake at the end of the first third, a few powerful moves. Nice wall climbing with smaller holds above that.

There's quite a bit loose rock in the beginning but it gets better quickly. I got half the way up and then I saw that a big bird is nesting in the hole that's right in the route. Retreated immediately... I want come back for this, seemed cool!

I found it a bit strange at times, but overall a good route.

Much better than the similar looking R5. Not much dirt either.

Somebody really went overboard with the bolts here, but it's a very nice and long route nonetheless.

A bit too mossy and dusty, but there are some cool moves for the grade. Solid #warmup.

Brüchig

Not exactly sure which of the two left-most routes I liked better. Both are terriffic. Long, unique, interesting lines in generally good rock once you've passed the first meters. I might be biased towards this one because of the beautiful crack dihedral which can be climbed (most easily) full-on crack-style with hand, fist and foot jams. Then with amazing pockets around the corner and a little tricky up to the book case. Once again, passing the latter is the crux. You can climb all the way up to the anchor of "Jubiläumsweg".

A brilliant line that looks so much harder from below than it is. The steepest part is ridiculously juggy, with a short crux to get into the big hueco after the book case. The finish has been straightened at some point (there's a bolt leading to the left towards "Hexenweg", but you can choose to go further straight up), making use of the good rock quality up there. Too many bolts in that finish for my taste, but oh well. Little runout in easy terrain to the anchor. Oh, and the choss in the beginning isn't too bad. Pulling carefully is still advised, especially with the big blocks and flakes.

Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …

Great, long route, easier than its two left neighbours. If you leave out the first bolt and put a long sling into the second, the rope runs smoothly despite the traverse. The rock structure seems slightly brittle, but there are enough solid holds around.

Found no solution for the crux

Seems new bolted with anchors. But no more information.