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Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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Fr 9. Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6+ | ★★ R4a - mit Peter Maier | 25m | |||||
5 | ★ Alter Weg - mit Peter Maier | 27m, 5 | |||||
5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg - mit Peter Maier | 27m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Peter Schöner Gedenkweg - mit Peter Maier | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Für Rudi - mit Peter Maier | ||||||
Sa 6. Mai 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg - mit Ralph M. Faust | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fr 7. Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Peter Schöner Gedenkweg - mit monolith | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Great, long route, easier than its two left neighbours. If you leave out the first bolt and put a long sling into the second, the rope runs smoothly despite the traverse. The rock structure seems slightly brittle, but there are enough solid holds around.
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Sa 2. Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Für Rudi | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg | 27m | |||||
5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg | 27m | |||||
Mi 2. Mär 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ Hexenweg - mit Markus Benning | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Not exactly sure which of the two left-most routes I liked better. Both are terriffic. Long, unique, interesting lines in generally good rock once you've passed the first meters. I might be biased towards this one because of the beautiful crack dihedral which can be climbed (most easily) full-on crack-style with hand, fist and foot jams. Then with amazing pockets around the corner and a little tricky up to the book case. Once again, passing the latter is the crux. You can climb all the way up to the anchor of "Jubiläumsweg".
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7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg - mit Markus Benning | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
A brilliant line that looks so much harder from below than it is. The steepest part is ridiculously juggy, with a short crux to get into the big hueco after the book case. The finish has been straightened at some point (there's a bolt leading to the left towards "Hexenweg", but you can choose to go further straight up), making use of the good rock quality up there. Too many bolts in that finish for my taste, but oh well. Little runout in easy terrain to the anchor. Oh, and the choss in the beginning isn't too bad. Pulling carefully is still advised, especially with the big blocks and flakes.
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6+ |
★ R7
- mit
Markus Benning
| 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …
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Sa 14. Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6+ | ★★ R4a | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg | 27m | ★ Gut | ||||
Brüchig
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7 | ★★ Für Rudi | ★ Gut | |||||
5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg (Schlesinger Weg) | 27m | ★ Gut | ||||
Mo 5. Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
5 | ★ Alter Weg - mit Ralph M. Faust | 27m, 5 | |||||
5+ | ★ Schlesinger Weg - mit Ralph M. Faust | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Mi 28. Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
5+ | ★ Alter Weg | 27m, 5 | Vergiss es | ||||
Mixed route of bolts, cams and nuts.
Very green, sandy and high first bolt.
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So 25. Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6+ | ★★ R4a - mit Ellen | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Somebody really went overboard with the bolts here, but it's a very nice and long route nonetheless.
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5- | ★ R5 - mit Ellen | ★ Gut | |||||
A bit too mossy and dusty, but there are some cool moves for the grade. Solid #warmup.
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7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg - mit Ellen | 27m | |||||
There's quite a bit loose rock in the beginning but it gets better quickly. I got half the way up and then I saw that a big bird is nesting in the hole that's right in the route. Retreated immediately... I want come back for this, seemed cool!
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7 | ★★ Für Rudi - mit Ellen | ★ Gut | |||||
I found it a bit strange at times, but overall a good route.
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5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg (Schlesinger Weg) - mit Ellen | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Much better than the similar looking R5. Not much dirt either.
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Sa 30. Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6- | ★ unnamed 1 - mit Christoph Rauch | 27m | Durchschnitt | ||||
6+ | ★★ R4a - mit Christoph Rauch | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
6- 5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg (unnamed 1) - mit Bovist | 27m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Long route with alpine touch but lots of bolts. A lot of vegetation and dirt in the route, since the crag is rarely visited; also some loose blocks.
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6+ | ★★ R4a - mit Bovist | 25m | ★ Gut | ||||
Another well-protected route. The start looks overgrown, but the holds are actually free of moss; nevertheless quite damp today, but a good climb. Defined crux at the layback flake at the end of the first third, a few powerful moves. Nice wall climbing with smaller holds above that.
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Di 27. Aug 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg (Schlesinger Weg) | 27m | |||||
6+ | ★★ R4a | 25m | |||||
5 | ★ Alter Weg | 27m, 5 | |||||
7 | ★★ Für Rudi | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg | 27m | |||||
Sa 10. Aug 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6- | ★ unnamed 1 - mit Ralph M. Faust | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
So 12. Aug 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
8- 8 | Satan | 18m | Durchschnitt | ||||
7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Di 22. Aug 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
5- | ★ R5 - mit Dorit Heinrich | ||||||
7 | ★★ Für Rudi - mit Dorit Heinrich | ||||||
Do 22. Sep 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Jubiläumsweg | 27m | |||||
8 | Satan | 18m | |||||
5.H von links anklettern, linke kleine schuppe dann rechten Fuß sauber stellen, mit links ins runde Loch fallen lassen und mit rechts weit hoch greifen, SICHER keine glatte 8
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Di 17. Mai 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Höllenstein | |||||||
6- 5+ | ★ Schleßinger-Weg (unnamed 1) | 27m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Peter Schöner Gedenkweg | 30m | |||||
6+ | ★★ R4a | 25m | |||||
7 | ★★ Für Rudi |
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