Begehungen in Aufseßtal Südwand

I had to try a few times at the second and third bolt to find the right beta and to find a good clipping position for the third bolt. In the top part I threw a sling over the nose from the ledge to clip the rope into.

Gnarly start on small holds, nice upper half in rough rock. Left out the new bolt in the upper part and put a friend in the break instead.

Steep dihedral with big flakes, very interesting for the grade. The original start is unprotected and a bit brittle, the direct start might be the better option.

Not so easy at the beginning. The easiest start (arguably the original) is probably to crawl up the ramp on the right, then traverse left and up to the base of the crack. The left start is quite bouldery on smallish holds. The aforementioned crack, then, is a real treat. Perfect hands for a few meters, very rare for the Frankenjura. And because people can't climb cracks here, some oaf placed a bolt in the green blocky terrain a meter to the left, so most people probably just avoid the best part of the route by steering towards the bolt. Another great crack is stacked on top of the hand crack, this time a little wider and in yellow rock with lots of friction. Might be the best climb of the crag.

Pumpy undercling traverse into layback crack. Quite unique. Definitely worthwhile, and well-protected.