Waterfall rock Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Tranter Fabrizio Tatti Kevin Sid Lu Hank Kuo

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1. Waterfall rock / Fashion Crag 10 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Waterfall rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Saisonalität

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 22.356012, 114.374081

Übersicht

The crag is formed by basalt columns similar to those seen at classic locations such as Giants Causeway in Ireland, only here the rock has been subjected to a little more in the way of tropical weathering. As such, the rock is mostly solid but has a thin covering of flakey weathered rock that will fall off with use. The top of the crag is very loose and the safest exit is by moving right along the ridge towards the headland. Beware of occasional very large unattached rocks. Helmets are recommended.

Beschreibung

Gear is plentiful throughout nearly all routes, small wires and small to medium cams, and as such it is requested that climbers retain a traditional ethic when climbing here.

A full ropes length is needed for the left hand side of the crag. All the routes completed so far have been up obvious crack systems, however plenty of potential remains for harder face and arête routes remains.

The bottom of the crag is located at a wave cut platform which can get covered by the sea if a big swell is running so its best to visit the crag during low tide / periods of generally calm weather.

https://hongkongclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/waterfallcrag.pdf

Einschränkungen

This approach can be made in all but high tides. However the bottom of the cliffs are washed by waves if there is a swell running so flat seas are advisable.

Zustieg

The approach will take you about an hour from the gates of the national park in a taxi.

From Sai Kung town take a bus to the country park entrance on Tai Mong Tsai Road. From here it is necessary to take a taxi to the end of the East Dam of High Island Reservoir (by the large hexagonal sea defenses.) Walk to the far end of the sea wall, passing the outcrop of Po Pin Chau, and cross over the fence before continuing along the headland on a small path.

Cross a small stream and ascend to the saddle of the hill (Fa Shan). The path splits into three when you reach the headland. Follow the steep path which cuts directly down the pebble beach (撿豬灣滾石灘 Kim Chu Wan) and carry along the coast, around two head lands (past some otherpotentially worthwhile crags) until Waterfall Rock - Fashion Crag is reached.

Ethik

Trad.

Geschichte

Developed by Matt Tranter and Ben George in 2004. Does not get much traffic because of the difficulty in getting here, the lack of bolts and the fact that most people in Hong Kong would rather be poked with sharp sticks than be seen in the New Territories!

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ More fun than shopping for shoes 2 expansion bolts anchor. Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} HVS 5a	Traditionell 34m
2	★★★ Doppelganger Same anchor as More fun than shopping for shoes. Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} HS 4c	Traditionell 34m
3	★★★ Broadway Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} E1 5a	Traditionell 34m
4	★★ Seamless Trad anchor + 1 bolt. Scramble down for the descent (to the right facing the cliff). Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} E1 5a	Traditionell 34m
5	★★ Tailor Made Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} E1 5b	Traditionell
6	★ Big boots Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} VS 4b	Traditionell
7	★★★ Clothes line Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} S 4a	Traditionell
8	Zipper effect Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} S 4a	Traditionell
9	Suits you sir Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} S 4a	Traditionell
10	Big boots rule Erstbegehung: Matt Tranter & Ben George, 2004	{UK} S 4a	Traditionell

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
S 4a		Big boots rule	Traditionell
	★★★	Clothes line	Traditionell
		Suits you sir	Traditionell
		Zipper effect	Traditionell
HS 4c	★★★	Doppelganger	Traditionell 34m
VS 4b	★	Big boots	Traditionell
HVS 5a	★★	More fun than shopping for shoes	Traditionell 34m
E1 5a	★★★	Broadway	Traditionell 34m
	★★	Seamless	Traditionell 34m
E1 5b	★★	Tailor Made	Traditionell