Begehungen in Parete di San Paolo

#FFA

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUj0kSuj_dK

Adam Ondra's instagram

Such a cool route from Stefano Ghisolfi! Fell from the very top once because the good heel hook broke but luckily found some new (bit harder but not grade changing) beta and send the next go. Took me two 2 day trips to Arco, first one with horrible conditions though. Might come back for the Lonely Mountain which is basically the same route with four different moves and also just as hard in my opinion, let's see. I like to come to Arco so why not

Project Beginning is no more a project, the beginning of a new "normality" already started and climbing this route is the best way for me to begin dreaming again. Too hard to be just 9a, but too easy to be 9a+, the new route in Eremo di San Paolo is "Beginning"! Read more on Instagram #FA

Cool connection of St. Anger and Zauberfee basically connecting both hard parts making it 8c+ into 8c+ with a crazy feet first knee bar rest in between. Had some trouble with wet holds but somehow pulled through. Definitely a hard 9a maybe 9a/9a+ is fair not sure.

5th Go. 3rd Ascent

almost flash, 8b/8b+ in topo, normal 8b for me

8b/+. There is history behind, thank God!

#2go

Happiness! Got it second go

Bien bonito multi, bien durísimo, unos pasos bien locos y expuestos. Iba en segunda hasta el último pitch donde tuve un colapso mental jajajaja me gustó mucho y no estaba nada pulida!!!!

P1 only

Lead 2,4,6,8 SL ohne Sturz und Rest. 1Sl Schlüsselstelle technisch im Nachstieg, den Rest frei.

Rough vegetation, poor line management

First pitch was still in the sun, and felt really hard for the grade. Also some difficulties for reading the 3rd pitch, but I think it was OK for the grade.

Best multipitch I have climbed till now in Arco. Some very creative routes. Bolting sometimes a bit spaceous. Route has been altered in 2017, so might sometimes lead to confusion. I suspect a hold broke off in the start of the traverse of the first pitch since the move feels substantially harder than any other move in the route.

Actually a nice climb but still scarily bolted

Can't recommend 1st pitch but 2nd is very nice. Possible to walk past 1st pitch.

1st pitch is not worth it, 2nd pitch is very nice!