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Practice Wall Guide

  • Bewertungskontext: UK
  • Begehungen: 11
  • Aka: Sword Cliff

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mountain Club of Kenya Ian Thorpe Joel M Crushy McCrush Face

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Table of contents

1. Practice Wall

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

8 routes in Sector

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: -1.479604, 37.071743

Beschreibung

About 200m right of the North Picnic Tree along the base of the cliff line is a small crag.

Recommended routes: Number Two — V.S. Number Three — S

A 2000 MCK Bulletin mentions a 'new' crag called Sword Cliff with 3 routes, but this is a mistake - Sword Cliff is Practice Wall.

©

Einschränkungen

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

© übernommen von Lukenya

Zustieg

Park at North Picnic Tree (Main Wall parking) and head right parallel to the wall along goat tracks.

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Ethik

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

© übernommen von Lukenya
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Number One

Start at left-hand end of crag, some 2m left of sharp corner, at two pocket holds. Move right under bush and take wall above direct.

Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959

S Traditionell 8m
2 Number Five

Start 4m to right of crack mentioned in Number Three.

VD Traditionell 16m
3 Number Six

Start 2m to right of Number Five where there is a mantleshelf about 1m up. Continue climbing, passing to right of a small bush near the top.

D Traditionell 16m
4 Number Seven

Start at right-hand end of crag. Up pile of boulders 3m to platform. Traverse left along wide ledge to hole ascend wall above passing to right of bush. Traverse left above bush, straight up to finish.

M Traditionell 11m
5 Number Eight

Start 6m from right angle junction of blocks at end of face. A minute crack running straight up.

S Traditionell 8m
6 Number Two / Perfect Tramlines

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959

VS 5a AU:16 Traditionell 16m
7 Number Three / Two Into One Does Go

Start 2m to left of 1m dark vertical crack at base of rock. After a thin start move left under middle of red overhang, which is taken direct.

Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959

VS Traditionell 16m
8 Number Four / Accidents Can Happen

Start immediately to right of vertical crack mentioned in Number Three. Ascend wall direct.

Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959

VD Traditionell 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
M Number Seven Traditionell 11m
D Number Six Traditionell 16m
VD Number Five Traditionell 16m
Number Four Traditionell 16m
S Number Eight Traditionell 8m
Number One Traditionell 8m
VS Number Three Traditionell 16m
VS 5a Number Two Traditionell 16m
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