Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nettle Tree | |||||
VS | Graunch Direct
Start as for Graunch but continue in water groove over eye of scoop until faced by unclimbable wall. Move left handed so 2m up left hand water groove. Ascend wall on right direct to tree belay. Easy rock to finish. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 31m | |||
VD | Tree Route
Start at root of large tree. Climb tree then over flakes to wall. Taking easiest line move slightly right, leaving nettle tree to right, then left to tree. Finish over boulder to top. An alternate start is 1.5m to left of tree in corner. | 31m | |||
S | Twin Crack Wall
Start 4.5m right of Tree Route. Thin start leads to scoop at 6m. Move slightly right and ascend twin cracks. Ascending traverse left-handed to red buttress which is climbed on nose to belay. | 23m | |||
S | Paunch
Start 2.5m left of Flake Route, and layback on to wall. Up steep conspicuous crack and straight on delicately to top. Erstbegehung: John Temple & Robin Harper, 1974 | 31m | |||
S | Flake Route
Start on pile of boulders 6m to right of Twin Crack Wall where nettle trees grow in horizontal crack under small overhang. Climb to small pigeon hole. Traverse slightly right to twin pigeon holes then up to wide ledge and move right. Ascend crack on right to easier rock. Traverse left across detached boulder to extreme left edge and ascend to platform. Ascend groove in wall behind to finish. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 25m | |||
VS 4b | Camelot
Start on left-hand piece of a broken block below the left end of an overlap which extends to Lancelot, 3m right of clump of nettle trees. Follow a vertical line of holds over the overlap, past a small pocket, to easier ground. Then go up a vague crack to the white-streaked arete on the right. Go up this to a bushy ledge and straight over the overhang on a large hold. Erstbegehung: Francis Hllman Erstbegehung: Philip Winter and, 1990 | 28m | |||
VS 5a | Guinevere
Start on right-hand piece of the broken block. Go delicately over the overlap trending right to the obvious pocket at 7.5m. Cross easier ground and up to nettle tree, then right to the overhung corner. Up this and exit right by the tree on good jugs to a ledge. Finish up the face above. Erstbegehung: Philip Winter & Steve McCormick, 1990 | 28m | |||
VS | Lancelot
At the far right end of the face is a groove with a small fig tree at 4.5m. Climb corner and groove until it peters out, move right-handed on small holds up a series of steps on a flake to platform. Climb wall and groove to finish. Erstbegehung: P. Snyder & D. Burkhart, 1970 | 31m | |||
Sugar Loaf | |||||
M | Honey
Start at left-hand end of face at bushy gully. Climb buttress on right beside gully. | 16m | |||
VD | Syrup
Start immediately on left of central gully. Climb straight up. | 28m | |||
VD | Treacle
Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish. | 28m | |||
VD | Castor Sugar
Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish. | 28m | |||
S | Demerara
At right-hand corner of face a wedge has fallen away to form a groove at back of platform. Start from platform. Climb groove to point, move left onto small ledge and straight up to wide ledge. Above, thin brown- grey wall leads to finish and small tree for belay a few feet away. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 25m | |||
S | Jaggery
Start at right-hand end of platform in Demerara. Vague groove leads right across wall. Ascending traverse along groove until possible to go straight up aiming for little tree at top. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 25m | |||
Agama Wall | |||||
E1 5b | ★ Edge of Sanity
At left-hand end of crag there is a nettle plant growing about 2m up the cliff. Start 2m right of this, where hard moves lead up slightly left, then a hard move right to a jug. The route then continues straight up keeping about 1m right of the edge, to a horizontal crack. Step left then difficult move up to better holds. Follow arete to good belay tree. Erstbegehung: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1999 | 17m | |||
VS 4c | Frogs Attack Maggie
Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay. Erstbegehung: Magnus Karlsen, Clive Ward & Iain Allan, 1989 | 17m | |||
HVS 5a | Frogs In the Wind
Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top. Erstbegehung: Iain Allan, Clive Ward & Magnus Karlsen, 1989 | 17m | |||
Wide Chimney Boulder | |||||
S | Wide Chimney *
Start 9m inside chimney near streak on left wall. Back up facing left until a narrow ledge is reached at 6m. Stand up on ledge, traverse left along it to outside and ridge. Scramble right-handed to top. | 16m | |||
Practice Wall | |||||
S | Number One
Start at left-hand end of crag, some 2m left of sharp corner, at two pocket holds. Move right under bush and take wall above direct. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 8m | |||
VD | Number Five
Start 4m to right of crack mentioned in Number Three. | 16m | |||
D | Number Six
Start 2m to right of Number Five where there is a mantleshelf about 1m up. Continue climbing, passing to right of a small bush near the top. | 16m | |||
M | Number Seven
Start at right-hand end of crag. Up pile of boulders 3m to platform. Traverse left along wide ledge to hole ascend wall above passing to right of bush. Traverse left above bush, straight up to finish. | 11m | |||
S | Number Eight
Start 6m from right angle junction of blocks at end of face. A minute crack running straight up. | 8m | |||
VS 5a AU:16 | ★ Number Two
Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 16m | |||
VS | Number Three
Start 2m to left of 1m dark vertical crack at base of rock. After a thin start move left under middle of red overhang, which is taken direct. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 16m | |||
VD | Number Four
Start immediately to right of vertical crack mentioned in Number Three. Ascend wall direct. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 16m | |||
Hyrax Wall | |||||
VD | Coney Corner
Start at spike of rock to left of middle tree on platform. Climb to platform. Traverse 3m left and take wall direct. | 11m | |||
VD | Daasie's Delight
Start and first moves as for Coney Corner. Climb middle tree and take wall direct. | 14m | |||
D | Kami Crack
Start on right of middle tree. Up crack behind detached flakes to platform and move right to tree then climb wall direct. | 13m | |||
Scorpion Wall | |||||
VD | Millipede
Start about 6m to left of narrow cleft. Pull up into small crack. Move left to point of buttress and ascend wall above direct. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 11m | |||
S | Centipede
Start in narrow cleft. Up cleft and then to right-hand wall, move diagonally right and up. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 10m | |||
S | Scorpion
Start in centre of dark waterway part of wall from middle of ledge, there is a small handhold at about 2m. From here to top. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 10m | |||
S | Tarantula
Start in crack to right of Scorpion. Climb left wall, cross eye of crack and move left again onto wall. Erstbegehung: Grading Committee, 1959 | 10m | |||
VD | Spider
Start 2m to right of Tarantula at top of heap of boulders. Take nose direct and move off left-handed. | 10m | |||
D | Fly
Start 3m to right of pile of boulders on Spider at recess. Step onto broken shelf on right at 2m and climb wall direct. | 10m | |||
Dunman's Face | |||||
D | Dunman's Rib
Start at foot of gully on right of rib. Climb to first large platform. Follow main rib line until a steep wall is reached, which may be taken on left. Continue up rib. Top section may be taken on left by a chimney or from some 3m to right of nose. An alternate start may be made up the crack splitting the nose of the rib. Break out left after some 2.5m. | 76m | |||
D | Dunman's Face
Start at left point of foot of slab. Climb to right point of overhang. Continue to scramble up wide face until 3m steep wall is reached. Belay and take this directly, or avoid it by moving left. Continuing, the climb runs out to a grassy gully. An alternate finish is to move left across the gully and take the awkward-looking wall. | 76m | |||
Not-So-Main Wall | |||||
VD | Usain Boltless
The logical line from the left end of the face towards the right hand side of the summit boulder.
Erstbegehung: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, 18 Jan 2020 | 75m, 3 | |||
VD | Why Bother?
Start at bottom of leftward-rising corner, just before ground drops away leftwards. Climb below or in the corner (as vegetation allows) until corner reaches dodgy sapling on dusty ledge. From sapling, climb directly into scoop and up wall on hollow flakes. Erstbegehung: Alex Anderson & Will Anderson, 2013 | 40m | |||
Baboon Cliff | |||||
D | Rainbow Country
First climbed in a downpour sporting a beautiful rainbow over the Athi Plains. lt lies on the buttress to the right of Nemesis Crag; a long, very yellow cliff that gets gradually steeper from left to right. Start the climb on the left hand side where a slab leads up to a long, deep horizontal crack. Follow the crack line right for a few metres until you are underneath a fig tree. Then make a move up out the crack onto the face and onto the top (natural pro). Erstbegehung: B. Lyons & M. Buonajuti, 2001 | ||||
VD | Tree Route LOL
Climb direct to the vertical tree root that drops from the roof at 5m. From here, continue direct to the tree root above - don’t be tempted off route by the root whose route continues to the right before rejoining the route at the tree root above. Continue direct through the Y of the tree to belay from the root at the top of the route, or the big tree behind. Erstbegehung: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, 8 Jun 2021 | 15m | |||
{AU} 14 | ARÊTE TO THE CHOPPA!
Climb the faint arête to the right of 'Dapper Flapper'. Erstbegehung: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, 27 Apr 2021 | 10m | |||
Bogan's Buttress | |||||
VD | Bogan Ogre
Up the chimney round to the left of DBO. Erstbegehung: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, Aug 2018 |