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Routen als traditionell in Entrance Wall

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Zeigt alle 14 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
HVS A1 Gagoole

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Traditionell 78m
HS Kindergarten Grooves

Start at the foot of the ill-defined gully leading diagonally up to the right. This part of the cliff is obvious as approximately 30 m over to the right, there is another gully, (the line of Deluge), leading diagonally up to the left.

  1. 18 m Climb the corner crack past an awkward bulge at 9 m to a tall rock pedestal.

  2. 12 m Climb the crack between the mail wall and the pedestal. Go over the top of the pedestal and descend a little to belay.

  3. 31 m Easier now, traverse right and climb a corner to a broken terrace. Climb into an overhang groove-cum-ramp and follow this right-handed to the top.

Erstbegehung: R.F. Higgins & R.Pillinger, 1968

Traditionell 61m
S Gasper Vagrant

Start 5 m right of Kindergarden Grooves, and follow an obvious line of cracks running more or less straight up the front of the buttress.

  1. 18 m Climb the crack as far as a bulge, move slightly right and up over vegetated blocks. Easy rock leads to a recess up on the left to belay.

  2. 12 m Climb out to the left, using a jam, the up the ensuing slabs to the bottom of a steep crack with a large chockstone in the middle. Climb this to the broken rake halfway up the cliff to belay.

  3. 24 m Traverse right over easy rocks across the back of gully. Climb this then traverse right across the sloping slab for 5 m. Up nose tending right to the final wall.

Erstbegehung: T.Spence & J. Sinclair, 1970

Traditionell 60m
VS The Gasper

Start 5 m right of Gasper Vagrant.

  1. 18 m Climb up over grassy bulges then left and climb crack to a ledge. Make a difficult, slightly descending traverse to another ledge below a chockstone crack. This is climbed to a ledge belay.

  2. 37 m Climb an easy chimney (here the climb joins Kindergarden Grooves), then move right over slab to an independent line, and then up the steepening wall to a sandy ledge.

  3. 6 m Move up slightly and traverse right along sloping ledges, then climb the steep wall above.

Erstbegehung: Iain Allan & J.Sinclair, 1968

Traditionell 61m
HVD Deluge

Start about 61 m right of The Gasper, at a diagonal line running from right to left to an obvious exit.

  1. 21 m On a corner go up directly to reach a prominent slab slanting left. Either follow the slab to its finish, or go onto a rib on its left and then rejoin the top of the slab where there is a fine pinnacle belay.

  2. 31 m Now trend diagonally left on the easiest line and take the weakness line to the top.

Erstbegehung: Ian Howell & I.Sandilands, 1968

Traditionell 52m
HVS A1 Medicine Man

About 30 m left of Phoenix there is an obvious tree growing some 9 m up with a prominent white root hanging to the ground. About 9 m left of this feature there is a big corner leading to overhangs at 15 m.

  1. 15 m Climb crack to sloping ledge beneath overhangs. Peg belay.

  2. 12 m Move up to good handrail then surmount overhang, (1 nut and 3 pegs). Up arete and step right to good belay. Nut belay.

  3. 31 m Step right and work generally right-wards to obvious wide finishing crack. Up this and over bulges above. Severity: 2

Traditionell 58m
VS Serth

Start 9 m left of Phoenix.

  1. 34 m Climb the crack past flakes and a small bush at 5 m, to the bottom of a chimney. A ramp leads diagonally right from the top of the chimney to a good ledge. Climb the blocks and arete to the top of flake.

  2. 21 m Up the steep wall moving right to the top. Severity: 3

Erstbegehung: R. Black & H. Black, 1972

Traditionell 55m
AU:19 A0 Skyfall

About 6 m right of Medicine Man, there is a crack that moves through a series of bulges. Around the first bulge from the left. Then up the second bulge pulling on gear. Continue up, exit on the right of the crack system.

Erstbegehung: Alex Fiksman & Fish Shah, 2012

Traditionell 46m
VS Phoenix

About 137 m from the right-hand end of Entrance Wall there is a triangular-shaped buttress with its apex at half height of the cliff. On the left section of the buttress is a fig tree with a white trunk which almost reaches the ground. Start by tree.

  1. 34 m Climb up to the tree and continue up the slabs to a roof at 14 m. Step right to a niche and gain the ledge 3 m up on the right. Just left of the ledge is a groove. Climb the right arete for a few feet until one can step right and follow the weakness to a ledge. Back left to good spike belay.

  2. 27 m Follow the arete on the left to ledges and move back right to two deep holes. Step right and follow the crack to where another crack runs off right. The right-hand branch leads to easy ground. Severity: 2

Erstbegehung: R. Black & H. Black, 1972

Traditionell 61m
VS A1 Phoenix Pinnacle

Start to the right of Phoenix at a prominent ragged crack which runs up the buttress just left of the pinnacle peak.

  1. Climb the crack to the pinnacle. Belay (Nuts were used for direct aid to enter the crack but shouldn't be necessary now the crack is cleaned). 2)Descend and traverse left onto Phoenix.

  2. As for Phoenix.

Erstbegehung: P.Snyder & R. Black, 1972

Traditionell 61m
HVS Hiraeth

About 18 m right from where the rock turns from yellow to red is a tree at 9 m. Start at blocks just right of the tree.

  1. 14 m Climb over the blocks to below a tree just left of a wide crack. Use the tree to gain ledges and a thread belay.

  2. 23 m Up the the level of the roof and then left to an excellent thread. Straight up to the start of a crack and traverse easily left to the foot of twin cracks. These lead to a spike belay.

  3. 15 m Crux. THe steep crack leads, with a sling for aid, to a spike and niche (peg runner). Use a peg above the niche to swing left into a shallow V groove. This leads to ledges with a chockstone and peg belay.

  4. 13 m Easy climbing leads left and then back right to finish directly above last belay.

Erstbegehung: R. Black & H. Black, 1972

Traditionell 65m
{SA} 19 My Last Sigh

Start as per Hiraeth (about 18 m right of Phoenix Pinnacle where the rock turns from yellow to red is the remnants of a tree at 9 m).

Fine climbing on gear up to number four BD cam.

  1. Climb over blocks to below a tree and just left of a wide crack. Use tree to gain ledges. This is where Hiraeth goes up and left. Continue up and right over easier broken terrain to a corner 8 m below a large roof.

  2. Climb corner to roof which is surmounted direct. Step right and then back left onto sloping ledge. Continue slightly left until a crack on the right provides the airy finishing moves.

Erstbegehung: Alex Fiksman & Michele Leone, 2013

Traditionell 46m
{SA} 19 Hidden in Plain Sight

Start about 1.5 m right of My Last Sigh in a hand-jam crack. Climb crack to top of pillar. Continue up, moving right over broken terrain to the ledge at the base of a clean vertical crack in a recess. Surmount ledge and then up crack. Continue up to overhang, through this and up stem right to crack. Up this and finish left.

Erstbegehung: Alex Fiksman & Chris Yenkey, 2012

Traditionell 46m
E2 Flash Gordon

(not sure of exact location) Entrance Wall, right end. The climb is located a little to the right of the mini stone amphitheatre. Start at the bottom of a large vertical slab with a visible crack splitting its middle. Reach the the top of the pedestal and access the crack/corner with a bouldery move. Alex has cleaned off several decades of bird crap with a broom attached to a stick, add a grade if it has built back up. At the top of the slab, delicately head left under the block, then straight up on steep rock. Towards the end, a short (steep) detour on the right avoids a couple of meters of soft rock. 60 m ropes are necessary for a solid belay at the top. Brilliant climb on great rock!

Erstbegehung: E. Freudenthal & A. Fiksman, 2012

Traditionell 50m

Zeigt alle 14 Routen.

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