Routen in Batu Caves

Hidden route to left of the gear shed. An extension of an existing route starting on the upper platform. This route starts with a boulder problem straight from the ground and finishes with 15m of tufa dancing before the anchor. Easily a classic

1 Threaded + 5 Bolts

Share same anchor Scorpion

7 Bolts + 2 Threaded 7th Bolt added 26/08/23

Retro bolting by original bolter in progress.

Open project. FA up for grab.

An extension of the route Like Father Like Son by Abang Man Dyno on 10/03/24, adds 4 more bolts through a tricky boulder problem right before the anchor.

An extension of the route Like Father Like Son by Abang Man Dyno on 10/03/24, adds 4 more bolts through a tricky boulder problem right before the anchor.

Extension bolting in progress.

slab before the crux & light overhang to the crux

Mixed protection 4 bolts and 5 threads which are in a poor state (Sept 2023)

Instead of starting on the left, start on the right side just right below the 1st bolt of Puteri. The start is a solid 6b bouldery problem. The rest is just 5c+. The Lower Off is a pair of old slings through bolts, not a chain.

Lower off is to left of large chain visible from ground

Lower off is the large chain visible from the ground. Suggest 6a+ as start is much harder than route to right.

Packs a lot of climbing into the first 3 bolts. Can clip the lower off and extend the route to the LO at the top of the cliff (33m with 2 extra bolts).

Original guide had this route as Senjang Gila, but at some point was renamed to Sunday. Reverted to original name but no change in grade

Originally known as Sunday, but changed at some point to Senyang Gila. Reverted to original name with no change in grade

Originally climbed by Akmal as Aciaci Buka Pintu but changed to TQ Dyork at some point. Returned to orginal name

Originally climbed and named 3 Brothers, but changed at some point to Singing Wall. Reverted to original name with no change in grade

Grade changed to match occurrence in Damai Left Wall

P1 5c+ 22m 10 bolts P2 6a+ 25m 9 bolts

P1-Climbs between the tufas immediately left of 'Granular Spindrift', then heads slightly rightwards to the 'Monkey Line' belay; 5b 25m.

P2-Step left onto the wall, and either pass the stalactite on the left to gain a faint groove that leads back rightwards across the wall, or alternatively climb the rightside of the stalactite (clipping the bolt) and then straight up the wall. Gain a small cave with a pillar (thread) and then a second larger cave with larger pillar; cam and thread belay, 5c 25m.

P3- exit the cave on the right with a high thin thread through the stalactite veil. Use the stalacite to gain the wall above, good cam placements, then step left above the cave and continue straight up to the Good Onion belay. Clipping the first bolt on P3 'Good Onion' reduces rope drag; 6a 25m.

Short route between Good Onion and Granular Spindrift.

P1 Climbs the first pitch of Redemption Song to belay under the small cave 25m 5c. P2 Leave the belay on the right hand side of the cave and climb the rib using trad gear (cams and nuts) then pass through the trees (slings) to gain the groove that runs up the left side of the Good Onion arete. Follow this to the top (cams, nuts and threads). Don't step right at the top to clip the last bolts of Good Onion. Use the Good Onion belay. 28m 5c P3 From the Good Onion belay climb the pocketed rock straight above the belay to gain the small niche (thread runer here). Holiday in the Bamboo Hotel continues straight up. Traverse left along the break towards the small tree (thread runner) and then step further left to gain the bolts of Redemption Song and the belay. 20m 5c. Abseil down Redemption Song

climb pass the route Lead Man's anchor and continue to higher anchor where the 2nd pitch start. climb the line straight up until you see arete where the bolt start to go left up. recommended to carry 2-3 alpine quickdraw for avoiding rope drag.

Also, Route Extension: "Just realized" (6b) 25mtr. (Akmal Noor 2003) Original Lightning Grip anchor removed.

Monsoon got its name because it rained when they were bolting this route (or something to that effect).

Pitch 1

• Climb straight up from the ground
• Reach an anchor at approximately 10 meters in height
• Do not stop at the anchor; continue climbing
• The first anchor is on the left of the massive cave's roof

Pitch 2

• Climb up and right
• Pass a small tufa overhang, then you see the first bolt
• This pitch is the shortest

Pitch 3

• Climb straight up
• End at the left side of a bush

Pitch 4

• Climb straight up, then slightly right
• Face the crux of the pitch, a slab where you start going up and right

Pitch 5

• This pitch is not in the topo
• Climb up through a big overhang under the base jumping platform
• Still a project and ungraded, could be very difficult

Note: Ants are expected along the route.

1. First pitch. Sustain 10+ clips to the first anchor

2. Second pitch. Very tricky 6b+ route with blind crimps and a lot of bad pockets. Anchor of the third pitch is near the tree to the right

3. Third pitch. Very runout around 4m so its best to keep a level head.

4. Fourth pitch. Tricky traverse to the right and on to the tufa. After that, 5c+ all the way

A short popular introductory route

A real Chimera of a route - start up the old Unknown 7, continue straight up clipping the last bolt of Anchor or place nuts and small cams, then step left onto the steep cracked wall and go straight up using a couple of cams; at the final orangey/brown wall clip the bolt on the right (UnKnown 8) or place some nuts and cams, step onto the wall and fire straight up using either 2 bolts of Bengwali Pewai or placing large cams in the pockets. Lower off Bengwali Pewai

There is a poor thread beside the lower off point for Anchor which could be clipped, though there's a better bolt a little bit higher

Located on the left of Kek Lapis. Route is slightly shorter than Kek Lapis, crux part is slightly overhang.

Note that there is a severe rope drag on this route especially after you clip in right below the crux. 12 bolt and 2 threads.

Juggy crux with polished left foothold after the small cave (rest point). Advise to use longer draws to reduce rope drag.

This route is located on the extreme right of the right wall/section (the last bolted route) that starts on a wall with some grafitti on it. The route is a short 5-6m inclined bouldery sport climb with only 3 bolts and features a couple of bad crimps at the crux!