Begehungen in Mount Pleasant haben Beta

Very hard, very bold.

Haven’t fought this hard on an 18 in years. I’ve climbed easier 21s.

Feels about V3/V4 so maybe 23/24?

Harder than it looks with tricky feet. Got somewhat lost at the top and chickened out. Will definately come back for this beauty.

Probaby a touch soft, the way I climbed it anyway. It does suit my style though. The climb is somewhat let down by the intial moves to get established onto the arete, on subpar rock. The rest is really good. Draws on but placed the gear, not that it makes any difference.

I got confused, can't tell if the climb is a bit tricky or I was making it hard...

Very cool delicate climbing - unfortunately the wind got a little bit too wild for me. Would be very fun to get back on.

Looks like couple crimps have broken off just before you get into the crack?

This has likely been climbed by someone else before - but thought it worth recording for interest.

Historical

Historical entry

Warm up lap to get gear sorted on Gruse.

Done on pre-placed gear, so could have been better style and maybe I’ll return for a proper red point one day. Gear would be finicky to place on lead, but possible. I climbed to the right of the topo line, not sure how most do it. It’s easier this way, but also protectable without top roping half the route or soloing. Happy to subtract a point or two, as it’s still a cracker of a line.

Warm up lap.

Climbed a slight variant, also good fun.

Got it all sorted, gear included. Will be back soon to lead.

Some good moves in there, but would be quite dangerous to lead so will probably be happy with a TR ascent.

Still a quality line.

Gave it a go ground up, but wasn’t confident about the tiny gear. Glad I tested it, as the first piece promptly pulled when I weighted it. Will be back to suss on TR.

Made it a lot harder than necessary on the onsight, went easily second go. Pretty fun and balancey.

Warm up.

Got up to the bolt fairly easily this time, but still haven’t sorted the mantle.

Got it mostly worked out but still stumped at one move. Very stiff for 26, even on TR! Will be interesting to figure out how to protect it.

Actually really fun once you figure out how to protect the start. Nice latter day addition.

Quite a unicorn for NZ: an actual crack, with actual jams, good rock, and no bolts. Packs a lot into 14m! Will be back for the proper red point, gear is good but sometimes finicky.

Basically a boulder problem, but fun. Very wet today.

TR warm up. Quite wet today.

Wow, I was not expecting to pull this one off today, thought I’d start working it as a winter project. Had the first bolt pre-clipped so could have been better style, but I don’t really care tbh. Awesome moves the whole way, what I’d expect Peak District grit to be like.

Climbed through the crux smoothly only to fall at the top on sun greased slopers. Will return in better conditions!

A decent variation, but wouldn’t want to fall from the top on lead.

Warm up.

Unsend, even with the top rope! Forgot the sequence, then remembered it. Also sorted out gear beta. Will be back for a go on the sharp end next visit.

Not the best style, but the gear is quite finicky and felt heads up to place on lead. Happy with the pink point for now, but may be back to do it properly.

Powerful crack climbing, brilliant and very much a unicorn for the Port Hills. Good gear but also rather finicky in places.

Almost flashed on TR, had one fall coming out of the pod. Really fun climbing, quite keen to return to lead this one.

Top rope tough guy day, sussing out some new lines for future headpoints. Adequate gear on this one, but quite finicky so hard to place on lead.

Took a lot of goes to tick this one on lead, and I still didn’t properly red point it! Felt hard given my rusty thrutching skills and the finicky gear at the crux. I didn’t know routes like this one existed in NZ, I’m stoked!

Wow this thing feels nails! Very techy and balancey, with a burly crux. Epitomises bouldering on a rope. Looking forward to putting it together.

A fun boulder problem, but hard to give it a star given the short length and lack of an anchor.

Warm up/repeat.

Took a few goes to sort out the beta. Initially felt very hard, but on the send was almost trivial. Hard to grade. Probably a V3 boulder problem, quite balancey and sequential.

Another gooder.

Like everything here, short but with a couple of good moves down low.

Some fun sequences on this one!