Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sa 18. Mai 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 4 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
One hang x3. Beta will be to avoid all rests and motor on through.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Mo 13. Mai 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 3 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Crux feels different traversing in from Bolts. Was planning to get on Trog but it was wet and now I’m inclined to tick this one first.
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27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First time repeating Gorilla in yonks. Such a fun route.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Sa 11. Mai 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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27 | ★ He Devil — 3 Versuche | 8 | ★ Gut | ||||
Quite a nice linkup actually, and harder than Gorilla alone given that it also passes the crux of Rubble. Possibly 28 but easier than She Devil in its current state, so who knows? Either way, good training for Trog!
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So 5. Mai 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
24 | ★ Wishbone | 15m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Well worth doing, crimpy.
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Sa 4. Mai 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
First go of the day, just needed to remember the for sequence to get through the roof. Felt almost as hard as Bogus to me, although the style is quite different.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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27 | ★ He Devil — 2 Versuche | 8 | |||||
Something fun to play on between projects and to re-learn the top of Gorilla in preparation for Trog.
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Sa 27. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Nemesis status confirmed.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Do 25. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
High point, punted off just below the anchor. Frustrating, but I think I may have sorted better beta for the top. Becoming a bit of a nemesis!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Sa 20. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Punted above the last bolt FML! Completely changed the beta for the top but by the 3rd attempt I was already too gassed. Taking a lot longer than expected to get this one done.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Di 16. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 4 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Climbed through the crux twice only to punt off the top due to poor footwork. Trickier than expected to keep it together above the roof on red point. Still, very close!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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So 14. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
1 hang x3, twice latched the crux slot but couldn’t quite hold it. Sorted out better foot beta to make the throw. Should have a good chance next session.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Sa 13. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
17 schwer | ★★ Brownie | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
went out after a rainy night so a bit muddy! pretty hard 17. cool variety! worth coming back with a saw and getting the boneseed 😈
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Mi 10. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 4 Versuche | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
New project, first day on, already down to one hang! Won’t be a giveaway, but hopefully it’ll go down relatively quickly.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Mi 3. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 4 Versuche | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
My new preferred warm up.
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Di 2. Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
21 | ★ Full Length Feature | 18m, 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
3-star moves on average rock. A real pity as this could have been an instant classic.
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24 leicht | ★ Wishbone — 2 Versuche | 15m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
Cool little V3/V4 boulder problem. Big cleaning job, could still use a bit more love. Worth doing. Probably a touch soft but also really suits my style. #2ndGo
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Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
18 | Wasabe | 17m | Durchschnitt | ||||
A bit dirty.
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Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Great Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Tsingtao | 15m, 5 | |||||
A bit dirty. Missing hanger on one of the anchors on a left route, just used anchors to left.
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22 | Concrete and Clay | 15m | Schrott | ||||
That is some horrible rock! Like kitty litter stuck together by static electricity. The holds just above the 2nd bolt are not long for this world.
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Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
19 | Tequila Layback - mit Simon | Schrott | |||||
Couldn’t find the third bolt and wasn’t keen on risking a whipper on those old rusty bolts. This one needs rebolting and a serious clean.
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Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
19 | ★ 101-2=99 - mit Simon | ★ Gut | |||||
Shame it’s all over once you exit the second corner.
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17 leicht | ★★ Sun Lover - mit Simon | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Excellent. One of the best at the grade in ChCh.
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Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
High point x2, falling at the last hard move of the second crux. Can’t get much closer and not send!
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Di 19. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Good progress today. Managed my first proper one hang, despite feeling quite tired. Lots of subtle refinements, feels like it’s coming together.
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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So 17. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
28 | ★ Intifada — 2 Versuche | 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Reckon I got it all figured out, basically comes down to 2 hard moves. Will be my secondary project after Bogus.
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26 | ★ Gorgonzola — 2 Versuche | 18m, 5 | |||||
Another FA I’ve been fortunate enough to nab with minimal work, thanks to the generosity of friends. Not a great route tbh, but it’s got some good sequences. Pity about the ledge halfway though, otherwise would be a very good and sustained line.
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Mi 13. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
High point, to the end of the first crux. Continuing to refine beta, especially for the rests, but it’s basically game on now!
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Do 7. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Excellent progress today. First time making it through the start crux, then climbed from there clean to the second last bolt. It’s on!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm down.
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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So 3. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 2 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Body was pretty thrashed after the manual labour yesterday, but still managed to sort out some new beta for the bottom and top.
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
x2, warm up and warm down.
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Fr 1. Mär 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
To the chains with 3 sits, each time doing the subsequent moves first go after a rest. Need to start making more links, but the beta is pretty well dialled.
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26 | ★ Grumble — 2 Versuche | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
A quality linkup, and would make a good warm up as it’s less fingery than Rubble.
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Di 27. Feb 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
All moves made, even on the wet holds. Need to start making links now! Not sure if it feels close or far off, but stoked to start the journey.
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26 | ★★ Rubble — 2 Versuche | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Repeat, didn’t quite stick the crux on the warm up, easy second go.
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Mo 12. Feb 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
30 | ★★★ Bukujutsu | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
Love this route. Great project!
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So 14. Jan 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | |||||
1st session - working on these moves individually, need to work out the meat grip move, hand position feels awkward to move off after the catch
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
1st session - working on these moves individually, needed to cut a few times or better beta
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31 | ★★ Space Boy — 4 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
(original anchor so 31)
2 1 hangs. Could have gone if I pulled a little harder? 4 attempts. |
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Fr 12. Jan 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
31 | ★★ Space Boy — 4 Versuche | ||||||
Well maybe I can do this huh. 4th bolt to top. 1 hang
(31 cos original finish) |
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Di 9. Jan 2024 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
31 | Ecopoint ★★ Space Boy — 3 Versuche | ||||||
made some good links but send still feels a little far. mega route much psych
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Fr 29. Dez 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
32 | Centripetal Force | ||||||
another futuristic project. found some spicey beta for the crux. will explore some more.
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33 | ★★★ Paint It Black | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
holy moly this thing is rad but also nuts and way too hard for me atm. figured it would check it out after doing bogus. did 3 of the hard moves.
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29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 3 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
80+ tie ins and 3 trans Tasman flights later. 3rd go first day on this season. On to the extensions hahaha.
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Do 14. Dez 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★ Roger Parker | 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Second go of the day, fourth day trying the route. Easily the most tie-ins I’ve ever had on a 25, and still barely managed to clip the anchor. Surely something has broken since the FA, it’s well hard.
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26 | ★★ Earned — 2 Versuche | 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
I quite enjoyed the movement on this one. 28 seems ridiculously generous though!
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23/24 | Petrol Head | 5 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Pretty crumbly down low, but I did enjoy the long moves over the roof.
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So 3. Dez 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★ Rubble - mit Alex Popinga, Shania | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Bolt to bolt to the last clip. Got some beta from Conner for 4th to 5th which works well for me with a high heel out left. All the clipping positions feel good to me except 3rd
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26 | ★★ Rubble - mit Alex Popinga, Shania | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Tried up to the 5th bolt again. Clipping 3rd still hard for me.
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26 | ★★ Rubble - mit Alex Popinga, Shania | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Found nice kneebar for second clip. Third clip still very strenuous. I think my feet are just in the wrong places. Need to get a lot more weight through them. Some nice moves on this climb. Pity about the lack of an anchor
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Mi 29. Nov 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★ Roger Parker | 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
This thing is my nemesis 😝! Fell clipping the anchor so maybe it’ll go down next time? Most sessions ever on a 25 by a long shot.
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25 | ★ Staunch Like Elvis — 2 Versuche | 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
The last of the McCallum Elvis routes goes down. Fun and quite continuous from the 2nd bolt to the chains.
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Do 23. Nov 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
20 | Bailo | Schrott | |||||
I love you Simon, but this route is rubbish!
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26 | ★★ Ripped Like Elvis — 3 Versuche | 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Punted off the top twice, then managed to keep it together for the send. Really packs it in!
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Mo 20. Nov 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
24 | vorgeklippt ★★ Jumping And Squeaking — 2 Versuche - mit Richard Flinn | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Climbs really well, and is more sustained than it looks. Certainly not a 23 as per the old grade on thecrag, but probably not quite 25 as in Tony’s guide. Well worth a lap.
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26 | ★★ Ripped Like Elvis - mit Richard Flinn | 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Hung draws first go, second fell at the last hard move and one-hung, didn’t have time for a third. I hated this line at first and really liked it the next attempt. Go figure!
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Mo 13. Nov 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★ Rubble - mit Alex Popinga | 14m, 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Had a brief look at this. I need better beta or finger strength for clipping. Steep stuff is not really my thing.
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26 | ★ Super Glue - mit Alex Popinga | ★ Gut | |||||
Apparently we got misled onto Shrubble while trying to figure out this line. Might have to have a second look.
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Mo 23. Okt 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Account open. Made all the moves, first time to the anchor. Got the full spray down so beta is fairly sorted. Just need to start making links!
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27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis | ★ Gut | |||||
Felt cruiser today. Short but packs in a few good moves.
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26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Officially made it a warm up!
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So 15. Okt 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis — 4 Versuche | ★ Gut | |||||
Another day, another punt. Refined the heel beta though, and made a new high point. Cave season is on!
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Di 3. Okt 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | |||||
Done all the moves, just gotta link it
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So 1. Okt 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis — 3 Versuche | ★ Gut | |||||
Super close, punted off the jug at the top. Will go down soon!
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26 | ★★ Rubble — 2 Versuche | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Almost made it a warm up.
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So 10. Sep 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
26 | Knieprotektor vorgeklippt ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Felt great to re-send Rubble on the first day back to the Cave for the season. Reckon I’ll make this one my warm up for the year.
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Do 25. Mai 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
28 | ★ Intifada - mit Richard Flinn | 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Went up to check it out, figured out some beta but the crux will need more work. It’s probably too late in the season to come back for now, but will make a good summer project.
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25 | vorgeklippt ★ Gorgon — 2 Versuche - mit Richard Flinn | ★ Gut | |||||
Deserves half a star for the upper crux moves. Came one move away from the onsight, just went for the wrong hold. Went easily second go.
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23 | Red 50 - mit Richard Flinn | 15m, 6 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Not awful, but the quality is marred by the no hands rest ledge in the middle, and the proximity of the two bolt lines at the top.
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23 | ★ American Express - mit Richard Flinn | 15m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
Incredibly dusty, coated in a layer of caked dirt, but actually quite nice.
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Do 25. Mai 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Great Wall | |||||||
23 | China Crisis - mit Richard Flinn | 15m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
Warm up. A lot better than expected!
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So 7. Mai 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
The Cave | |||||||
27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis | ★ Gut | |||||
Fun moves on steep crimps. Will be back for this one.
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28 | ★ Elephant Tits | ★ Gut | |||||
Went to have a look. Not a very worthwhile variant.
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27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Warm up.
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Do 4. Mai 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
25 ~26 | ★ Roger Parker — 4 Versuche | 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
Partner broke a footer at the crux move to the anchor. Still goes, but felt a fair bit harder. I quite like this short and powerful route, not many like it around.
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23 | Corner Crimes | 8 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Unbelievably dirty, from dust to lichen to foot slips on pigeon poo. Some cool moves here and there, but needs a fire hose to make it worthwhile.
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Mo 20. Mär 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
23 | Corner Crimes | 8 | |||||
Very Dirty route with some loose blocks.
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So 19. Mär 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Sunnyside | |||||||
15 ~16 | ★★ The Parsons Nose | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Nice climb. The bolting is not very friendly for people who are leading at the grade.
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17 schwer | ★★ Sun Lover | ★ Gut | |||||
Nice climb, though it's weirdly runout at the bottom. Felt a bit stiff for the grade in places.
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So 19. Mär 2023 - Barnett Park | |||||||
Leech Wall | |||||||
20 ~19 | Bailo | Durchschnitt | |||||
Not as dirty as the other routes on this wall, but the route is quite wandery and strange.
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21 | Spanish Johnny | Durchschnitt | |||||
Not too bad but a bit dirty and chossy. Would've got the flash if I didn't wuss out and grab the last draw to clip.
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18 | Wasabe | 17m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Would be a nice climb if it wasn't dirty AF.
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20 ~21 | Konnichiwa | 17m | |||||
Cool moves at the bottom, hard though! Crux is the last move to the lip, at the anchor, which feels harder than 21. A pity the anchor isn't a little lower.
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