Begehungen in Main Cliff von Thibaut haben sport-cpr oder ascent-date

Got it #2ndGo but had the top bit dialed from having worked on ´Lock ´n’ Load’ recently. Similar difficulty to LnL, perhaps easier even.

Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.

8 attempts over 3 sessions… psyched to finally tick this multi-year proj. Highly enjoyable from start to finish, would be a 3-star route at most crags.

Slightly harder than Sex Kitten but still on the softer side for Waipapa. Really cool, varied climbing. Technical first crux around 4th bolt and powerful second crux to leave the ledge. I think Rock Deluxe and Free Climb guides got the 2 climbs mixed up: Doing it at Dawn is significantly harder, grade 25+. #2ndGo

Superb. Soft by Waipapa standards. #2ndGo

I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo

Another hidden gem that deserves to see more traffic. Bouldery climb that offers welcome respite from the usual techy Waipapa climbing. Grade is spot on. #2ndGo

6 attempts over 4 sessions. Probably on the harder side of the grade. Extending the 5th bolt helped as clipping became the stopper move. Great climb.

Possibly on the softer side of the grade and certainly easier than ´Robin’ and ´Fossil Free zone’. But 23 isn’t necessarily inconsistent with the grading of other routes at Main Wall. Cruxes at 3rd and last bolts. #2ndGo

So many hard moves, definitely possible to fall at multiple spots. The red point will be a fight for sure. Cool hand jam at 4th bolt. The kind of routes that only grants you one good go per session.

Really fun route. Interesting dynamic move on poor feet to a jug. Powerful finish.

Proper Waipapa 23, i.e. stiff for the grade. Really technical climbing throughout, especially around 4th bolt. Had to give it my all to bag it #3rdGo. Would deserve 2 stars when clean.

A bit dirty but still a splendid route. Cool mantle about halfway and then spectacular climbing up a finger crack on the slab head wall. Epic battle to bag the onsite.

Repeat. Probably one of the best 21s on planet Earth. So good.

First go on lead. Felt way easier than when I top roped it last year. Great test piece for the grade.

#2ndGo

Pretty easy climbing up to a mantle at the top. 19 feels pretty generous, by local standards.

Fun, varied climbing.

Clear crux at the 4th bolt to get settled onto a layback position. Harder than it looks. Got it 3rd go.

Hard to read the crux sequence on the onsight attempt...

Really cool route. Nice laybacking and good foot jams. Could be 22, even for Waipapa. We gave it a good clean.

Two good goes today but it wasn’t meant to be.

Fitting name as it seems unattainable.

Thought I was on Honey Bee (18), absurd route finding error. Techy 23-24 climbing up to 4th bolt where a blank face with shallow pockets awaits. A bit hard for a warmup…

Clear crux at 4th bolt. Feels nails at the moment.

Fantastic route. Pretty much non stop difficult moves, back-to-back. No real stopper move though. Deserves its own anchor!

20 is way more realistic than 18. Difficultly pretty sustained throughout. Technical laybacking. Would deserve 2 stars when clean.

Technical start leads to glorious laybacking all the way up to the chains. Loved this one!

Repeat

Repeat

Repeat. So hard for the grade, or maybe I go too direct?..

Repeat. The gift that keeps on giving. Fabulous climbing from the layback start through to the mantle finish. Cemented in my top 3 for NZ. World class.

Repeat. Hard to grade as it’s just that one hard section around grade 20-21 while the rest is pretty cruisy. 18 still feels stiff though...

Repeat

Repeat. Still really enjoyable.

The first 2/3 seems doable but then it gets properly hard. Took a spanking on this one.

Repeat.