Begehungen geklettert zwischen 2013-01-01 und 2013-12-31 in Oceania als verschiedene Ticktypen von Sam May

Good climb but I was in the wrong mood to enjoy it. Had to haul down on a badly tangled pull cord with the microtraxion, while abseiling in behind a large Bunny Bucket Buttress conga line.

Took 7 bolt plates, some wires, and 3 cams #0.75 to #2 (which we did place one or two times)

Barefoot for a warmdown.

A bit of a shock after three weeks of Blueys vertical hauling. Funky, technical, awesome.

Even with half the holds broken off it's still a contender for juggiest route in the mountains.

Great stuff all round, position, line and climbing. Surprisingly exposed. If you're going to do it in pitches I recommend taking the bolt plates and topping out.

Shoulda been onsight...peeled off the crux then immediately lowered off and got it 2nd shot.

A bit of a mini-epic taking out three beginners. One person overcome by the call of nature just after being put on belay to follow the first pitch (no tp of course). A dropped belay device. A stupidly tight pair of shoes that took 10 min to put on at every belay. Rain on the last pitch, then full-blown storm on the access pitch, a waterfall spraying in my face as the belayer was assulted by hail.

More dogging than a poodle show and my shoes still haven't fully dried.

Great, would have two stars at Thompsons Point.

This crag isn't bad, afternoon shade, bush character, Wolgan style walk in to keep away the masses, I'll be back.

I liked this, lots of character for a short 18 sport route. Sandbag start, spicy bolting ("It would be safer on trad!") and good climbing.

First multipitch for Dave and Lilian. Beginners accidentally unclipping themselves on the halfway ledge on this climb is becoming a tradition...

Three years ago I would have been raving, but now it's just a good morning out.

Linked pitches 1 & 2, simulclimbed the halfway ledge, off by 1pm for lunch and latte in Blackheath, before going cragging in the afternoon.

(Unfortunately our style looks less impressive next to the 3 Queenslanders in front of us, who simulclimbed BBB and HC in a day, to train for speed climbing in Yosemite!)

This time I managed to clean all of Ro's nuts without weighting the rope or crying. Was a close-run thing though, with a little deja vu!

Led the slab traverse.

SLAB. GASM.

Surely this has been done before? It was about 30m from our tents...but we did break off the obvious footer, and scrape and brush away a lot of moss that would be hard to avoid.

Great little offwidth problem, and will now be mandatory for every stay at Catani.

Brilliant, varied and exposed all the way to the hard-won summit. In three pitches, one lead each.

We were making fun of a shaking James, until we tried to to second it! Tricky and hard to protect! And excellent!

At sunset. Aw man it was great.

Rest day antics. I thought we were top-roping!?

Put a good #3 and/or #4 camalot in the ramp at the start.

Aided over two days. First grade V. An adventure!

Buffalo aid weekend 2013. Only one flared manky cam placement above a bomber #1 camalot in the pocket at the top of the initial crack. All smiles after that, even placed a hook for fun.

Buffalo aid weekend 2013. Seconding Ben on jugs for aid practice.

Buffalo aid weekend 2013, Macca belaying. "Crack jugging on cams to practice your aid sequence" suuuure, excellent sandbag guys!

After falling onto a tipped-out #5 camalot I returned with a #6 and big bro, still about three meters of thrutching out of the aiders to finish the job.

Ok climbing but short and dirty. Good enough lead at the grade I suppose.

Pitches 2, 3 & 4 with Neil and Bulti. 2nd pitch is awesome! 3rd is awful access rubbish. 4th is a great weird finale and harder than it looks.

Another lap with Richard Croker. Really excellent climbing, rock, and protection. A must for the beginning Sydney trad leader, along with Crack Of Dawn and Cosmic Ecology

So glad I saved this for the onsight! Great line and climbing. Intimidating reputation, but the protection is good, really.

(GEAR BETA) First half has nuts and a cam or two, then red and purple totem cams are sinker at the crux, and a #4 Friend for the topout.

Armbar practice.

Old school flaring chimney. Take big gear. I think I've now done every grade 14/15 crackline at here.

Horrible squeeze but the most obvious and secure access to the top of the cliff down the right hand end.

Finally found the "descent route" after many visits. The guide is hard to follow down this end. Chipped jugs all over it but scary exposed.

Been looking at this for years and finally had a crack! A gnarly little bit of climbing.

Even with gear preplaced on rap by Bulti the crux was unprotected. Would be very serious to onsight, respect to all those who have done it!

Hard for the grade.

If this is the route I did (start up the block and then three bolts traversing left out over the cave), it took me two shots actually, and I would say a huge sandbag at 16. There's two or three steep moves with no jugs in sight. Best line here though!

I honestly have no idea if this is 10 or not, some beginners trouble, but it's in a good position.

Still dirty. Maybe ok for kids, but even the first-timers with us looked bored.

Mediocre addition to the Dam Cliffs beginner rambles.

Welcome to the Wolgan. Sandy, funky, splitter and FULL value for the grade. P1 only seconding Bulti.

Could baaarely reach the horizontal on tippy toes...up and down to get gear and dithering a lot before committing. Add several grades if you're short.

Good climb though, striking line. Rapped off after P1.

Solo aid practice - micro traxion for top rope self belay, plus backup knots on other side of the rope. A couple laps with passive pro only, some top stepping, and also a bit of cam hooking and bat hooking.

Excellent! Flash with pre-placed gear and beta - not having to place the bolts plates definitely takes away from the experience, so I'll have to come back for a redpoint. Bomber #1 and #3 camalots then all carrots.

Absolutely brilliant splitter, maybe the most aesthetic crack I've seen in the mountains, seriously! Climbs great too, did feel easy, on second at least! Good lead by Ro with a small rack.

Minor adventure at the end of the day with huge packs, topping out in the dark.

Challenging route finding on P1 and the start of P2, with the belay in an odd spot. After that, cruise home on jugs past the deluxe belay ledge for P3.

Please nobody ever repeat this! Go do Centerpoint, it looks great.

The obvious line here. Accessible sea cliff consumer classic, sandy horror for the whole family.