Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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So 2. Jun 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area The Hill Black Dog Buttress | ||||||
26 |
FA
★★★ The Black Dog
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
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Sa 13. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 |
FA
★★ Shagohod
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves
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Mo 18. Mär 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
22 |
★★ No Antidote
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.
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Sa 16. Mär 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill | ||||||
23 |
★★ Hard as a Rock
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.
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Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
21 |
FA
★★ Peacewalker
![]() | 16m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.
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Do 28. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | ||||||
24 R |
★★ Bad Cheques
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.
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Mo 25. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
25 R |
★★★ Aftermath
![]() | 30m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped
I then downclimbed it to clean it |
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So 24. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
25 |
★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.
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Do 21. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 |
★★★ A Taste of Honey
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Not a good warmup
2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise. |
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Do 21. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Trojan
![]() | 86m, 2 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason.
Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird? Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start. |
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Di 19. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 |
★★ Cecilia
![]() | 25m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.
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Mo 18. Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Station to Station
![]() | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.
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Fr 8. Sep 2023 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Violet Town
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move
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Do 7. Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 R |
★★★ Gigantor (free version)
![]() | 100m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
5 days of effort to this point.
Pretty chuffed to get both this and Titan done free within the span of a month. As with Titan, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do this. I wasn't planning on doing it until next season, but had an unscheduled day, and decided to check it out... and I was immediately hooked on the challenge. As to the route: If the rock wasn't choss -even if it was just your run-of-the-mill Blueys Sandstone, I'd call this the single best crack climbing I've been on in the entire world (and I don't think my resume is lacking when it comes to crack climbing) for position, sustainedness, and purity. It would also be a super-duper obvious contender to climb as a giant pitch. Alas, it is choss, so while I still regard it as classic, that is very much a subjective opinion, and I think prospective repeat ascensionists should really consider whether this will be their cup-of-tea or not. P1 - is amazingly varied and technical climbing. Personally, I probably found this physically harder than P2 (in that, its more cruxy) and in some ways scarier (due to insecure cruxes). The opening finger-locking is aesthetic and great, and the insecure laybacking through the middle lends itself to complex footwork. P2 - Looser than P1 for sure (the start of the pitch is horrible!), but quite stacked. This has a lot of hard moves with no super chill rest. I found the last moves to the anchor to be the crux, there there was about 5 sections I could genuinely have fallen off on. P3 - To be honest, I didn't like this pitch at all. Loose, hard to protect short crack section, followed by a sandy traverse on eroding edges to gain the topout ledge. Less sandy/chossy than you might expect in some ways... More sandy/chossy than you might expect in others. There's an "unpredictability" to the rock here that most other chossy routes I've climbed don't quite have. The gear is also pretty good, provided you're smart about where you place, and remember that spreading fall-load over a larger surface area is better than the alternative (read: passive pro, dammit!). Don't trust the fixed gear, though |
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Di 22. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Titan
![]()
1
19
35
2
18
30
3
26
20
4
26
25
| 110m | ★ Gut | |||
5 days of effort in total to put this all together. I pink-pointed the top 2 pitches, and had the first 2m of gear pre-clipped on P3. I broke 4 fixed pegs, and 1 hourglass carrot during this process. I also took 5 falls -one of which was a sideways whip onto an hourglass carrot, that somehow held my fall!
I wanted to climb something hard on Dogface to prove to myself that I could -I've always believed that I could, but the time had come to prove it. I found this a conflicting experience. I liked the climbing on the crux pitches, and -surprisingly- didn't end up finding the bad rock/gear as terrifying as I expected. However, because every single lap the route gets harder (breakages, holds become sandier, others become more rounded, fixed gear breaks, etc) my whole experience was stressful due to the knowledge that sooner or later it would be too hard for me to climb. I've never really climbed with this type of time-constraint before (wherein, every failed lap is punished by adding .1 of a grade to the pitch). Interestingly, the bottom 2 pitches are quite moderate, and actually surprisingly good (the rock isn't too bad, the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is fun!). These pitches are probably worth doing in their own right. After that, it gets rather sandy, and kinda hard P3 had a wildly technical thin stepped corner (on good gear) to start it off (it took me quite a while to figure out the beta), followed by easy, loose, runout rambling. P4 had a very cool seam-crack crux, followed by interesting, technical, runout slab climbing on deteriorating rock. |
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Mo 31. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Bluffs | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Width Pleasure
![]() | 7m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
After work in-a-day send by headlamp!
Great rock for the lower mountains, and wiiiiild moves climbing inverted feet in the offwidth. I found the moves to turn the lip and mantle out pretty bouldery at the grade, but maybe I had a silly sequence? Would love to hear beta on it. I can only think of 3 other offwidths in the greater Blueys that compares in the grade range/style, and this is probably the best. For some reason I didn't read the description, and only brought 2 x 5's, which was not ideal. I'll be back with the right gear for the red point, cause this puppy is totally worth it! |
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So 30. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 |
★★ Yumster
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6th shot. Took me 4 laps to ever come up with a consistent sequence for the crux. 5th lap I went through the crux, and fell off the first stemming move... 6th lap for the win.
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Sa 29. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Beastie Boyce
![]() | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6th shot total, and 4 core-shotting falls at the lower crux.
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Sa 22. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
27 |
FA
★★★ Litany of the Long Sun
![]() | 75m, 20 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
What a journey! Surprise send, after spending the morning on Simmo's route, and only tackling this at the end of the day with a view to sorting out the "send logistics" (with a route this long, steep, and wandery... It's fair to say that it's involved).
There's just so much here to remember, and with it being so steep, you're always on a timer to get it done. Steep, gymnastic, and sometimes quite technical. Would be megaclassic, but the rock is only about as good as Sunny Side Bell, so far from the best the Blueys has to offer. It's almost too hard to sum it up at an experience, even with the copious amounts of hyperbole I can command 2 Full days working the bottom 26/27 arete, and the effort I originally put in to climb Gaze a Gazely Stare (as well as a few repeated laps for fitness and training). On the send, I committed to constant 5m+ runouts to avoid dealing with rope drag. |
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Sa 15. Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 |
FA
★★★ Harbinger
![]() | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Originally attempted ground up. Took some falls, but was ultimately stymied by dirt and moss at the lip. Rapped in, cleaned 'er up, and went agsin. Took a huge lead whip right at the end on my 2nd shot, and sent 3rd shot on pre placed gear.
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So 9. Jul 2023 - Kiama | ||||||
Bombo Quarry Bollocks wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Never Mind The Bollocks
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. A bit of a rush to beat the arrival of night, especially at the end of a rather intense weekend (and a long first day at Bombo!), hence the cheeky pinkpoint. Super keen to come back for the True send, though.
Amazing, frictionless, technical trad climbing, with fingerslocks, fridge-hugging, face climbing, stemming, and many foot movements for every hand movement. The gear is good, but small, fiddly, and rather spaced towards the end. The finale seemed very bouldery to me. First lap was figuring out gear, cleaning the vegetation, and sussing the top crux -which definitely required some work, especially after I broke off a key footer. Maybe 23 to the rest before the crux, with a solid 25 tick when you add the crux into the equation? |
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Sa 17. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Lower Cliff | ||||||
26 R |
FA
★★ MoonMoon Crack
![]()
1
2
| 70m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
TRS Sussing lap on the bottom pitch, and the cheeky pink-point psuedo-FFA on the top pitch.
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Sa 11. Mär 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Lower) | ||||||
24 |
FA
★★ DMZ
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Cruisy, classic Gorge wandery face climbing, to an absurd finish campusing a frictionless sloper rail below a roof, and a gymastic finale into a major cave system.
Still needs some more cleaning, and some anchors. I had to do some very scary backjumping/downclimbing to clean it. |
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Fr 10. Mär 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
24 |
FA
★★ Passion in Preposterousness
![]() | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
An absurd line through the roof crack above the start of P4. Roof jams, Heel-toe above head, and some steep cranking on gear. Took me an annoying number of attempts to send.
Still needs to be done placing the gear on lead (its a mission to clean it, and we were racing a storm). |
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Sa 19. Nov 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
25 ~25 |
★ Vulcanian
![]() | 12m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3 shots. Fell off the last move on my 2nd shot. 3rd day on at Bulla, and I'm feeling proper beat-up now.
Still cleaning up, but the moves are awesome, and this is a way more enjoyable start to Karma Gettin' than Toast is. Steep as all hell, but surprisingly manageable with technique (I found 4 awesome knee-bars Full disclosure: continuing my run of breaking holds off at Bulla on this trip, I actually broke off my anchor clipping hold on the send. D'oh! |
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Fr 28. Okt 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
26 |
★★ Long Wall Mining
![]() | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Great roof climbing! More sustained than Black Leg Miner, and with a proper demanding finale.
Sent 3rd shot. Well... sort of: I actually had a silly foot slip while in the anchor clipping position, and pulling up rope for the anchor clip. Um... I mean: victory whip? Right? Seriously though, if I get a chance some day, I'll improve the style on this one. But for now, I'm content that I met the challenge. |
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Fr 7. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre | ||||||
26 |
★★ The Big Bang Is On
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Pretty chuffed with this, as I hadn't actually been able to do any of the 3 hard sequences on my first go, and had to improvise on the fly as I accidentally kept getting higher. Man, I was hanging out below that top crux for like 20 minutes trying to figure it out on the Send!
The rock is a mixed bag, but the moves are great! Steep and varied, and sustained all the way to the anchor clip. I started from the first bolt. There was a cairn that was knocked over (I think it's to make the start go?) that I couldn't be bothered rebuilding. Has anyone done the start at 26ish without the cairn? |
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Mo 3. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
26 27 |
★★ Fucked on Cocaine
![]() | 16m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sweet! Another boulder-problem overcome with trickery. One day I'll grow a muscle or two, but for now... trickery.
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Sa 3. Sep 2022 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
25 |
★★ The Removalists
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. On my onsight, I fell off on the last move to the anchors!
Other than the grotty no-hands rest in the middle, this is actually a really fun route. The top roof boulder is greata fun, and super funky. |
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So 31. Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Lower | ||||||
23 M1 23 M1 |
★ Maxbond
![]() | 45m | ★ Gut | |||
2nd shot -I found it hard to figure out the line/bolting on the onsight attempt. Could be "very good" with a bit of TLC. The actual moves are pretty cool (and kinda novelty) though it's rather unloved, and the aid move is quite weird. The lower-crux is a pretty wild bit of technical climbing, and the final traverse left to gain the P1 anchor is gripping!
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Sa 30. Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Gorge South-Eastern Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★ Wokker's Roof
![]() | 45m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Second shot on in-situ gear.
If you ignore the faff (read: choss and doddle) to get to the roof, and the fact that the roof itself is comically short, the climbing itself is bloody outrageous -especially given the era of its first ascent. Rather bouldery roof moves to gain the offwidth, after which the climbing is weird (read: fully-inverted feet-first climbing), but not too hard. The rock itself was surprisingly good for Glenbrook Gorge. |
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So 24. Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area | ||||||
25 |
★★ Hazard Reduction
![]() | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Almost a classic, marred only by the somewhat sandy start -though, it wasn't as chossy as I was expecting, and is much better than Soul Catcher P1. Quite easy at the grade (24?) but committing through the crux, and tricky to read when unchalked. Was a cruise 2nd lap, though.
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So 26. Jun 2022 - South Pacific | ||||||
Half Baked Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Lean Streak
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. Best line I climbed at this crag!
My onsight ended at the last bolt, tickling the good fingerlock. With no chalk on this, I felt like I battled hard and improvised well, only to be pipped at the post. But it wasn't for lack of trying, so that's okay Great rock, super techy moves, and an obvious feature to climb. We belayed from ground level, and had no problems with rope drag or length of fall. |
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So 26. Jun 2022 - South Pacific | ||||||
Descent Gully - Left Side | ||||||
23 |
★★★ It Began In Afrika
![]() | 12m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
For some reason I decided the obvious hold out left at the top was off-route (on the line next to this), and ignored it. Since when did I contrive climbing? 2nd shot. A really great route with a lot of climbing despite being short. The top boulder is rad!
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Sa 11. Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder | ||||||
25 |
★★ The Freedom Day
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Almost classic status! Substantially harder than the other routes on this wall -the headwall is proper stacked to the anchor. A great addition on perfect rock. Steeeeeep!
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So 29. Mai 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Egg | ||||||
24 ~25 |
★★ The Deal with Space
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Backlogging. * rolls eyes * . Once again, the "warmup" becomes the day project. Brutal at the grade!
If this went another 5m further up, this would be a proper classic. Despite its short length, there isn't so much as a moment to catch your breath on this intense number! |
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Mo 9. Mai 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
27 28 |
★★ Chase that Feeling
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Wow! A sustained, complex face climb with classic moves and rock, to a no-hands rest, before a gnarly V6 boulder finale through the top roof. The upper slab is not to be underestimated!
Though I could do the moves of the boulder, I didn't feel that I could put both parts of the climb together in the 2 days I had to try it, so instead I traversed over to the finale of Velvet Morning immediately before the no-hands rest at the top roof, and finished up that (hence not claiming the full grade). Sure, it's the piker's McDougall, but it makes the climb even more sustained, and just as classic as most of the other routes here IMO! Hopefully next time I'll send it properly. Full disclosure: I also started with the first 3 bolts pre-clipped. At the start I use a compression/arete-slapping/heel-hooking sequence rather than the crimp boulder. Was heaps of fun figuring it out. |
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Mi 27. Apr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay The Aviary | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Lodestone
![]() | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot total. Scrapped by way up this with the help of some funky crux beta from Michael -necessitating some gnarly foot-above-head insanity to work with my physiology- which was key to my success without working the route. It's far from over even after sticking the roof, and I felt like I was questing desperately all the way to the anchor. Highlight of the Bruny trip for sure.
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24 |
★★★ Footnote
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. Flash pumped out at the top bolt on the onsight. Awesome, technical shallow corner climbing in an insecure position. Quite unrelenting in the top half. Totally deserves its rep.
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Di 26. Apr 2022 - Bruny Island | ||||||
Cloudy Bay The Aviary | ||||||
22 |
★★ Crow
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Did not find the key crimps at the crux before I spooged off. Still felt nails at the grade 2nd shot.
Really cool, sustained climbing, with a gnarly fingery crux. The upper bit is great! |
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Sa 23. Apr 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Supernaut Face | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Master of Puppets
![]() | 55m, 13 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. First clean repeat, I think. Mega exposed climbing through huge blocky roofs on immaculate rock. I giggled my way up this on the send (singing Lovecats, for some reason).
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Mi 9. Mär 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 |
★ Digitalicious
![]() | 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot today (and a bunch of shots over the years). In today's conditions, and with some new beta (completely the opposite of how I've approached this in the past) this felt every bit only a 25 (as opposed to the 26 it's felt previously).
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So 6. Mär 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 24 M4 |
★ Thumbs Up
![]() | 92m | ★ Gut | |||
P1 only. 2nd shot today. I placed a few bits of gear, but the gear up to the crux was in situ from the first lap -its not hard to place them, and you climb back to a no-hands rest, so I'm not too stressed about upping the style.
A cool boulder problem that seemed proper hard in today's disgusting wetness -made the dubious rock, and fiddly gear even more gripping. I got rather scared on my first lap and didn't commit to the crux. I brought a full rack 0.3 to 4, as well as red C3, yellow C3, and Black Totem. A few small-medium wires are useful too (and RP's if aiding through the crux to work it). The crux is well protected once you actually get the gear in, but the rest of the route (until established on the headwall) is not good gear. |
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Sa 15. Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 |
★ Tomb Raider
![]() | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Took me 3 shots to stick the bouldery start! It's a rad boulder, but the 2nd bolt is in a proper rubbish position.
Finishing direct via River Styx was a waterfall, so we did the gr22 traverse to top the route via Tomb Raider. This was almost entirely dry despite all the rain lately. |
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Sa 1. Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
24 |
★★ Boosted
![]() | 13m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Some proper cryptic moves stymied me
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24 |
★★ Needle Shield
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Not a good warmup in the sun (I pumped out on the last hard move
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25 |
★★ The Life of Pablo
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3rd shot. A tedious first half guards an awesome, pocketed finale -with a Rose move! Easier if you're tall.
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Mi 29. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Soul Catcher
![]()
1
20
20m
2
25
40m
| 60m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Put in a proper good effort on the "onsight" and just didn't find a single hold mid-crux. Committed, tried hard, read the route right. Gotto be happy with that.
A 5m section of hard arete climbing on P2, but the rest of the pitch is only about gr23. Still cool, but looks better than it is, and its quality is tempered by the hideous 1st pitch, and the terrible equipping. Bareback is better. Bring 4 x Bolt Plates, a 0.4, 0.75 and #3 cam -to supplement some crazy runouts and the bad bash-in carrots. |
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Di 28. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
27 |
★★★ These Dogs Must Be Pru's
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
3rd shot today (and a bunch of laps over many years). Psyched to get this done. For me the crux is the streno slab moves off the no-hands rest, with everything above it to the top being super funky.
EOD and 3rd day on, I was stoked to pull this send out of nowhere. |
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Mi 15. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
25 25 R |
★★ Sidetracks
![]() | 50m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. A very hard crux, but also quite a few other hard moves. Surprisingly sustained, and very committing, with 2 proper exhilarating runouts. Wild moves and cool holds the whole way. Super steep!
I almost took the biggest fall possible after botching the upper crux at the height of the runout, and deciding the press on with smeared feet and fading fingers. My heart definitely skipped a few beats there. |
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Mi 1. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Rubber Lover
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
About bloody time. I couldnt even speculate how many laps I've had on this in thr last decade. I can now retire and take up croquet.
Subjectively, I dont like this climb (mostly for its fat-finger hating boulder problem) but objectively its not a bad route. |
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So 21. Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Goats Meat Cave | ||||||
26 |
★★ Goat Chops
![]() | 30m, 19 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Once again, the finale where it kicks back in the steepness is mega. For me to cut-loose after gaining the jug on the lip, I had to do the full "cliffhanger" one-handed wild body swing, which made me feel every bit Sly Stallone in his prime
I had a pretty cool onsight effort despite the lack of chalk, making the big move to the lip of the roof, but not where any jugs were Probably only 26, in reality. |
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23 |
★★ Goats Meat
![]() | 25m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
An awesome top half where it steepens considerably, and a tedious lower half. I found the loooong crux sequence on this quite hard at the grade (and totally pumped out on the warmup).
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So 14. Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
23 21 |
★★ Beginners' Steps
![]() | 47m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
First shot today as a warmup, but I Top Rope Solo'd this clean 4 months ago, so can't claim the flash
Awesome face climbing start on great rock, followed by a steep, exposed arete that is fairly easy but for a single sequence. With numb hands this felt tough! Proper alpine conditions today. Quite torturous. |
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Sa 13. Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Ashes to Ashes Area | ||||||
24 25 |
★★★ Ashes to Ashes
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot via the original left hand sequence at the crux. In its more popular iteration, it is essentially gr22 climbing either side of a nails boulder. Great rock, but very broken-up and inconsistent.
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So 7. Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Goats Meat Cave | ||||||
26 |
★★ Chicks Smashing Grunters
![]() | 28m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3rd shot. In todays wet and spoogy conditions, the arete-slapping and slimper cranking felt rather desperate. Essentially a 3 bolt arete boulder off a ledge, with some awesome (but easier) steepness at the top. Very Good, but with the caveat that the access "pitch" introduces an annoying degree of faff.
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Sa 23. Okt 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Cottage Boulder | ||||||
21 |
★ Disinclined
![]() | 45m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Ridiculous, but really good. On a hot and sweaty day like today, this was not the warmup I was looking for
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24 |
★★★ Leanings
![]() | 17m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very easily second shot, but totally punted the onsight. Aw well. Absolutely brilliant. I can't believe I waited until now to climb this? One of the top 5 24's in the Blueys, for sure.
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So 17. Okt 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
27 |
★★ Black Heathen (extended)
![]() | 42m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. A really hard face boulder-problem followed by a gritstone-esque sloper headwall that felt way harder on link than I expected. Probably should get done more often.
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Sa 25. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Stevia (Linkup)
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot today, 3rd total. Sustained face climbing on a route that doesn't see much traffic. Will probably clean up nicely over time.
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Sa 18. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
26 |
★★ Corner Drug
![]() | 36m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot today, and I've had a few laps in years gone by. Was rather damp up the face in the rain, and the corner was wetter than normal, but managed to power-scream my way up it.
Essentially, ~20m of pleasant 23ish face/corner climbing on generally great rock, followed by a gnarly (but unique!) bridging and crimping crux up high. |
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Sa 11. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Underworld | ||||||
25 |
★★ Gravel Rash
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot with gear in-situ. A super-high quality roof crack climb, but incredibly sharp -the name is apt! I'm currently rocking some of the worst jam scars I've ever scored.
Had a good onsight attempt that I'm fairly happy with, falling off right as I gained the stance in the roof proper, after having hung around for ages getting pumped trying to figure out the awkward transition. The bolts may have made sense at the time of the FA, but they need to go now, methinks. I'll be back (once the scars have healed) for the greenpoint |
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Sa 4. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
24 23 |
Cipressa
![]() | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
2nd shot. Onsight ended on the final move to the anchors. Given how crap the 29 this finishes up is, this probably isn't too hideous a way to experience the rad ending, but damn its hard! Even 2nd shot I just barely stuck it.
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So 29. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Loop the Loop
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot today (not a good warmup!) Yay, I finally got around to actually climbing this clean. Was more fun before the hold out left on the traverse broke off. Still pretty worthy.
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Fr 27. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Left Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Johnny The Neo Liberal Bogan
![]() | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
First shot today, but I blew my onsight almost a decade ago
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Fr 20. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge | ||||||
25 |
★★ Compressed Carbon
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. A tad gluey and crunchy, but genuinely good face climbing/slabbing, with quite a few challenging moves the entire way. Probably the next thing you should do here when you've done You Crazy Diamond and Diamond Jack.
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Fr 20. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Mr Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Mr Wendle
![]() | 10m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3rd lap today. Finally got around to actually ticking this, and when it went, it was a rather inauspicious affair. Hilarious roof thugging.
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Mo 16. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
26 |
Poggio
![]() | 25m | Durchschnitt | |||
3rd shot. Probably 23 but for a brief (but extremely bouldery) crux. The moves are surprisingly good despite how strange the line looks, but the rock is generally pretty crap for this part of the world. Might be 25?
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27 28 |
★★★ Zoncolan
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd redpoint shot today, 7th shot in total (and a few equipping laps). No particularly hard moves, but unrelenting from where it splits from Reigning Steel until you clip the anchors.
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Mi 11. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area El Desperado Wall | ||||||
24 |
★★ Sport Unknown
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Gut | |||
2nd shot. Got rather scared getting to the 4th bolt on the Onsight. A radical (but sketch) roofy crux down low, followed by course crimping up the arete. Stay off the chimney/opposing wall for the full tick.
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Sa 31. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
27 26 |
★★★ Sadomastication
![]() | 67m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot today, and quite a few laps trying it over many years. When it went, it went easily, but all the shots before it were an absolute struggle.
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Sa 24. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
26 |
★★ He-Man
![]() | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Steep pumpy jugs to a crimp-boulder finale. Better than it looks!
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So 18. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Tank Top | ||||||
27 |
★★ Deuca
![]() | 23m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot today, and I had a lap about a year ago as well. Probably soft at the grade.
Aside from the kinda dangerous bolting, and the uninteresting first half, the second act is sustained and demanding face climbing, with a true heartbreaker arete-slapping finale. With no chalk on this, the first lap today was rather gripping, given the runouts and the very sideways nature of the route. |
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So 4. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | ||||||
23 |
★ Squid Munching
![]() | 12m | Durchschnitt | |||
Cleaning up an old dog... now I never have to do this horrible thing again. The climbing is okay in a burly kind-of-way, but its about as contrived as sport climbing gets. A contender for the worst route at The Glen.
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So 16. Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
26 25 |
★★ Letters to the Editor
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot today. By far the hardest of the "Grade 25 Trilogy of Face Classics at Cosmic", and quite a fair bit harder/more sustained than Aesthetic Images. Very sustained, with four demanding cruxes, but all of the bolts are in really bad condition, and the runouts on this at two points are downright dangerous.
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Fr 2. Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
26 |
★★ Easy Fit
![]() | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. More pumpy and less cruxy than Ha Ha, and certainly more fun. Not too hard at the grade. I even got my hands totally back to front at the crux and had to improvise the entire sequence like that (trust me, it looked as absurd as it sounds) but managed to get up it. The entire finale is also pumpy fun.
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So 14. Mär 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Duck Walk
![]() | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
3rd shot. Fell off matching the anchor-clipping hold on my second shot! Despite disgustingly wet conditions, I was pretty happy to get this one ticked off without too much hard work. Three distinct and different cruxes, though the rock is far from spectacular. The top headwall is the money here.
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Sa 20. Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Titan
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Backlogging. 2nd shot today, 4th total. This time the crack was proper sopping wet, and rather terrifying to lead. I placed a few bits of gear on the Send, but most was insitu. Really wanted to do this properly (placing all gear) but just didn't feel comfortable given that this thing was actually running with water. Maybe at a later date
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So 7. Feb 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
23 |
★ Young and dumb (Young, dumb and full of Hoppy's cum)
![]() | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Like a lot of stuff here, 'tis quite moderate when you know where to go. As an onsight attempt, this made a bad warmup. But knowing what to do, it would be great. One briefly tough sequence, but otherwise quite mild.
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Sa 6. Feb 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
25 |
★★ Trotters Trifecta 2
![]() | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Not very hard for the grade, but one silly mistake (anticipated a jug while cruising, and it wasn't a jug) and the onsight is all over
Super steep, but pretty juggy. Short and sweet thugging. |
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So 31. Jan 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
25 |
★★ Toast
![]() | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Took the better part of 2 days to tick. Despite being so short, this is intensely bouldery and steep. I climbed through the crux with some gnarly "heels above head" silliness. Pumpy and powerful.
Caveat: after falling off on the previous lap, I lowered with the 3rd bolt still clipped and immediately went again... and then sent. |
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Sa 30. Jan 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
23 |
★ Pigeons Don't Pinch
![]() | 9m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Thought I could warmup on this... I was quite mistaken
Maybe 24ish? A fairly sustained route all the way to the anchors. Actually quite worthwhile. |
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Fr 29. Jan 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
23 |
★ Pigeon Fancers Nightmare
![]() | 12m, 9 | ★ Gut | |||
Only 1 hard move. I fell off almost immediately, lowered back to the start, and then climbed to the anchors clean. Whoops.
A bit like Nev Herrod at The Glen, this is a moderately hilarious 1-sequence wonder. Actually not a bad warmup. |
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Do 21. Jan 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
26 |
★★ Flesh Gording
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5th shot overall. Took me 3 shots to figure out the end of the crux (lacking a 2nd kneebar pad was a huge impediment to unlocking it). 4th shot I slipped off from the victory jug. 5th it went down tiredly -after 1 rest day in 2 weeks, I'm wrecked.
Powerful roof thugging, with less jugs than most of the other routes here at the grade. The crux sequence is awesome technical knee-barring. If this weren't razor-blade sharp, it'd score a classic from me for sure. |
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25 |
★★★ Black Leg Miner
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Sent easily second shot, having a roaring good time (and a conversation with my belayer). First shot, I got quite lost as to where exactly this goes. Utterly unreal climbing and so continuously roofy, yet not hard at the grade, and featuring some funky movement. Despite the rock being incredibly sharp, this is unlike anything I've encountered before.
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Di 19. Jan 2021 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave | ||||||
23 |
★★ Pudding Pullers (Blackleg Miner (Pitch 1))
![]() | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Not a great warmup in 100% humidity. Awesome climbing at the grade, and quite a unique experience
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Fr 15. Jan 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Phoenix Rising
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Classic climbing, but the dubious rock renders it "very good". A surprisingly bouldery and sustained outing, with only one real rest on the entire route. My first lap took me 1.5 hours to put together the beta (though route was clearly untrafficked), and to send it I had to go all guns blazing with lots of noise, clipping bolts at my ankles, and a bit of whimpering. For a face climb, this one runs a surprising gamut of moves and styles.
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Do 14. Jan 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
26 |
★★ Aslan
![]() | 50m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
4th shot Pink-Point send. Awesome. One off the bucket list of obscure ticks (that has been there since I first came to Kaputah a decade ago!).
Both pitches have awesome moves, with (mostly) good rock, and are improbably steep. P2 has a funky opening roof to negotiate, before going gnarly old-school palm-on-wall feet-smeared-on-nothing steep stemming, which reminded me of the crux of Pythagoras Theorem. Figuring out the crux sequence probably took me 1.5 hours of effort over 2 laps! I found the gear on both pitches (especially pitch 2) fiddly and a bit dubious, and never got to the point on P2 where I wanted to do the ascent placing gear (though having to finish before the midday summer sun arrived each day, and being on a mere road trip were also factors). I think maybe with another day on the route I might've gotten to that point. |
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Di 12. Jan 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Where Eagles dare
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd shot. The untrafficked onsight ended between the last bolt and the anchor, despite giving it everything. Felt solid and enjoyable on the 2nd lap. Maybe not too hard for the grade? An engaging gritstone-esque ramble up a funky buttress, with all the most engaging bits at the top.
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Mi 6. Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall | ||||||
25 |
★★ Apraxia
![]() | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
3rd shot today (plus a bunch of laps over the years). The first shot where I gave up tic-tacking the crux, and consigned myself to the drive-by, I went to the top.
Awesome, sustained, varied climbing, with a few loose holds and some idiotic bolting. It's really not over until you clip the chains, and there are just so many sections you could easily slip off. |
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Fr 1. Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Adventure Park | ||||||
24 |
★★★ Vigilante
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Number 3 of 4 of the crag classics. A hard start (seems to have gotten easier from when I first did it) and then just oodles of classy face climbing up impeccable rock, to a wild and committing finish. I absolutely love this route.
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26/27 |
★★★ No Country for Old Men
![]() | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Number 2 of 4 of the Crag Classics. A rad, pumpy, jumpy start, then into some weird thin trickery, followed by a steep, juggy, pumpy arete all the way to the top. Features some of the best rock at the crag.
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26 |
★★★ Curfew
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
1 of 4 Crag Classics. Took me 2 days, and an annoying number of shots at the start, but DAMN it's fun.
Very bouldery, improbable start, then awesome feature climbing to the top. Flakes, seams, and a roofy finale. |
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Mo 28. Dez 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Gold Mine Fernville | ||||||
25 |
★★ Very Thick Piece of Toast
![]() | 15m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. Short'n'sweet, and not too hard at the grade. Lots of rad pocket moves.
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Sa 26. Dez 2020 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Tianjara Falls Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods gully | ||||||
24 |
★★ Upchuck
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot. A very thin, very bouldery crux surrounded by otherwise fairly moderate climbing.
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Sa 26. Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Centre | ||||||
27 |
★★ Navel Aviator
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
2nd shot.
Short, but rather intense. I probably enjoyed this more than I remember, but the moves past the rooflet are bloody hard for me For added length, on the send I lead down-climbed form the anchor back through the traverse. |
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Sa 26. Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
26 |
★★★ The Boy From Oz
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Equipped as a warmup, and sent fairly soundly first redpoint effort today. I'd also had a bunch of shots a few months ago.
I just really enjoyed this route. The face is quality climbing on good rock, and really engaging without being too hard. Then everything from the roof up is just funky insanity. |
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Sa 12. Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Sunny Side' | ||||||
27 |
★★ Force Cannon
![]() | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
4th day of effort (including a hung-over day where I struggled not to vomit for the day). My ultimate anti-style (dynamic roof-bouldering on pockets) but mega nevertheless. Just like being back in Margalef. My hardest tick in this "particular" style.
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Sa 29. Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Sunny Side' | ||||||
27 |
★★ Farkenright
![]() | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
3rd day of effort (including a day where it was so wet that neither Jase nor I could get anywhere). Steep as all hell, but more of an endurance route with a few funky dynos than anything proper hard. Rad to get it done.
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Do 27. Aug 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass The Birdcage Area | ||||||
27 |
★★ Final Flight
![]() | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
5th shot total (including a few warmup laps). Awesomely steep and exposed up an overhanging prow. Mostly about gr24 steep jugging, with a crazy thin crux down low (must be utterly nails if you're short) and a bouldery iron-cross in the middle.
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Once you get to the steepness, its all just genuinely fun climbing. The rock quality is wave wall, but longer, and steeper. The main 3 bolts of the crux is just super funky, powerful, tucked-in bouldering over a long sequence, and I just really enjoyed my time on this.
Hope you guys do too.
Fun fact: this is the first time I've projected anything since my accident in September last year!