Begehungen in Tonga

Nice route in a beautiful location. High tide so unfortunately couldn't make it via the coast and Olu crag. Usual Eua mission: Tried to hire a car but the shop had lost the key. Luckily a random guy at the shop with a truck offered us a lift. We were driven out as far as we could get on very rough 4x4 tracks. Then walked through plantation and jungle for around an hour to the archway. Climbed the route then snorkeled on the spectacular beach. Met some friendly locals who were basket weaving and showed us a slightly quicker path back, just opposite the blue lagoon. They got out there by horse! Very thankful to see the truck back at the agreed meeting point at our arranged time. Another Eua adventure...

Rushed ascent in a 3 after getting to the crag the long way around via the beach. Some pitching and some moving together. Overall an amazing adventure, but we were limited with time so had to rush through the easy stuff and get out for a pre-arranged pick up.

The first pitch is a very nice climb. I was a bit tired after three days of hiking around Eua to various crags, so made use of the plentiful rests We didn't climb the second pitch because we weren't doing any multi-pitch this trip.

Warm up

Follow the crack/flake arete, with jugs all around. Really nice climb

Sort of a boulder-y start but super easy with grippy jugs. Goes left onto the face and then traverse right. Nice ledges to rest on along the way. If you don't have a nice jug, just keep moving and you will find one

Easy fun flake at the start, followed by slight overhang sustained to anchors (past the tree branch brushing the rock). There is a full body jam just before the pumpy part for a hands-free rest and plenty of juggy pockets though. A bit slopey pulling up to anchor but hidden pockets. Beautiful long, fun climb! ♡

I was a bit too scared at the start with the sharp overhung rock above more sharp rock - really afraid to fall! After that, with a nice rest in a cave ledge, a smooth jug traverse to a crack and stem, followed by fun crimp slab with a hidden jug by the tree jutting out from the rock, and then easy as to finish in a HUGE cave at the anchor!

Beautiful arete with arch as a backdrop, easy nice moves trending slightly left to the anchor

Great climb but the rope drag on the upper slab was horrendous. Wonderful location, if slightly intimidating on first arrival. About 29-30 metres according to our 60m rope

Beautiful location for a climb but we were a bit rushed given it was late afternoon and it takes a good hour to get back to a reasonable parking spot

First introduction to 'Eua climbing. Nice climbing to the right after access pitch. Nice to have an overhang feel so easy because of great holds and rests

'Eua climbing! Nice cave and view from the anchors at the top of this one.

Fun little route up a squeeze chimney if you want and onto a nice juggy arete to a grassy ledge with a big cave and lovely sea view just before the anchor

didn't climb the access pitch, one hang on Gregs 2nd pitch, but climbed my alternate via "Original Sin". First lead of tree of knowledge pitch, not really onsight as I bolted it. And followed Exodus pitch clean even with heavy backpack. Not a gimmee.

tricky turning the corner at the 3rd bolt and getting onto the face/tufa. then sustained finicky face climbing till the traverse and jug at bolt 6. Not as good quality as Gregs 2nd pitch of Forbidden Fruit, and didn't turn out to be easier.

First pitch interesting path moving left across the blind part. Second pitch tough onsight finding the best holds and clipping the DBB

long and varied, goes to Cosmos anchors. Could use a separate lower anchor for direct toproping and cleaning, above current midway anchor, but in alcove right above line.

just lots of jugs through moderate terrain

toproped direct line into third bolt at about 20. And possibly easier line staying left until about bolt 5 at <18. otherwise, a good feature.

sharp, but crisp, not too hard actually

climbing right of second bolt makes it easier, but still challenging through low crux, and hanging on up top.

quality of rock seems mungy/wet. hard long moves at start and bolting a bit high on first bolt, hard to clip 3rd.

Climbed using jugs on arete right of bolts, otherwise it would be more full on through the middle part. Starts with some jugs up past the first bolt, but in your face immediately to the second, which is a bit high. cruxy to the third bolt, but plenty of pump remaining for the top half of the first pitch. Didn't do the second pitch