Begehungen in American Pie

Grade maintains- i think it's just from the difficulty of finding it. But happy to have something to warm up on.

I strangely find the face wall easier to manage and see the beta as compared to the 5C.

hard to figure out, but easy move with some great confidence!

5C version is much more sketchy than its 6b version

Find my own beta to send the route

I thought the start was spicy, till I got to the end. Very fun movement

Figured we'd give it a go since we worked out the top crux. The start has apparently been chipped, so should sit slightly lower on the grade range. Very pleasant slabby climbing that feels the hardest at the top. Did a failed onsight attempt so just toproped to end off our impromptu evening climb. Note - small unimportant flake has come off the wall on the right side of the bolt line.

thought i onsighted it this time and found out that i alr did 5 years ago when logging…

Did every part on the face except the lower of the two ledges. On the way down, saw a possible beta with a right toe to lean far enough to get the jug on the side.

Nabbed the redpoint on my final climb out. Physical crux on the final bolt feels pretty desperate - left-leg bopping to get high enough for the counterclockwise moment. Mental crux is the final move for me - high left sidecrimp into a right sit-in that high above the bolt is just gruelling.

Same old same old.

Penultimate bolt is slightly lower than you’d want - small chance of decking to the ledge with an overly loose belay. Try not to clip into the Rainmaker anchor directly to the right as it makes the rope drag horrible. Shared crux messes with your head a bit - will be back for more!

First bolt (shared with Little Mermaid) has been removed since the incident. Class 4 scrambling to previous second bolt, but care as it is >5m up.

Nice quick run for Anthea.