★★ Valken D 8

Often used as a descent.

Start: on the right side of the buttress the rock protrudes at the base, and the path to Barrier Cave passes by. On the left side of this about 3m up is a large tree next to a small ramp. The rock is well polished by foot traffic.

Description: Climb up the corner to the base of the ramp, ascend this to the ledge above, then walk along a well trodden trail to the right behind a tree and climb a short tricky crack to another ledge 3m higher. Now walk left to the corner. A tree acts as a good belay. Climb up about 10m until you can traverse left (the 'Piano Traverse') to a short crack. You can belay here which makes communication easy, or move back and up another crack on the side of a stack of alarming looking blocks to a ledge above.

Continue up the gully, climb a crack moving onto the smooth face on the left side near the top to a loose slope. The crack now continues up to the top of the buttress but is filled with bushes, so climb the steps on the left. At the broad ledge above, walk left and scramble through a short rock band. Now head back diagonally right for the skyline of the buttress where you should see an obvious hook shaped prong of rock.

Continue along the crest of the buttress, which includes one or two short chimneys until, near the top, a smooth face is reached. This has a canopy overhang on the right. Move right and up onto the pinnacle of loose rock under the overhang. From the top move to the overhang, traverse left until you can move around and up a crack to the top.

No bolting.