★★★ Valken Face 14

"A popular route for the average party."

Start: 10m left of Barrier Cave was a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Climb the face slightly right of the tree, moving left towards the top.

2. From the ledge directly above the tree climb up and diagonally right.

3. Straight up through a gap in the overhang, continue to the gully.

4. Climb the sheer but easy face which faces Barrier Ravine.

5. From 4m behind the last stance climb through a wormhole to a ledge From there climb on the right and then in the gully facing Barrier Ravine. Walk to Upper Buttress. Approach via the minor rock steps between the bushy ledge to the right of the amphitheatre. When two steps up, bear left until directly below s large overhang chimney on the buttress above.

6. The face on the right of the bushy recess is climbed. Walk to the left for a few meters.

7. A white open book recess. start on the left wall, end on the right wall.

8. Walk left along the ledge until it peters out. Climb via a jutting out flake to the broad ledge above. Walk to the left for 12m.

9. Climb the vertical while face for 6m to a narrow ledge. Traverse along this to the right for 12 to the base of a crack. Step right onto the lip of the overhang, move up 1m, then left to the crack which is then climbed to the stance 15m above.

10. The Grooved Traverse Pitch: Climb the chimney for 3m until under the overhang. swing left for 3m on good holds, at the corner ease into the groove, then continue along and down for a total of 7m into the head of the gully.

11. Traverse left along a narrow exposed ledge. Walk about 12m left.

12. Climb first the right then the left wall to the top of a deep chimney. Behind is another short chimney which exists on the left.

No bolting.