Parking 1 Guide

The feature just left of Kersie Fees

The feature just left of Kersie Fees

Takes a central line, with a short fierce crux. Climb up to the break and traverse 1m right to below the milk chocolate coloured streak. Tricky moves lead to easier but steeper climbing. The only vertical slot in the brown streak takes a medium wire (offset best), and without it, there may be a different type of brown streak.

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.

Make a bold start (possible to protect first moves with micro nuts) up to the ledge then step left to the corner. A tricky move up to the next rail, and out left to a little perch. Continue up and right on fantastic holds and then left of the big fin at the top.

On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to the top. Scramble off back.

Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back.

A deceptively tricky recess opposite the Dragon Wall.

Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall.

This route is in a collection of features opposite (South) of the Dragon area

Between Ken’s block and Red Turret is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to the platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with the centre of Arête and gun for the top. Walk off and down the gulley to the right of the route.

suggested: extend the deepest draw in the recess

5m left of 'Yellow River' there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.

Perma-draws at the top.

On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.

Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.

Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right-hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.

A great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.

A new route, keep you posted