Truitjieskraal Guide

The feature just left of Kersie Fees

The feature just left of Kersie Fees

Takes a central line, with a short fierce crux. Climb up to the break and traverse 1m right to below the milk chocolate coloured streak. Tricky moves lead to easier but steeper climbing. The only vertical slot in the brown streak takes a medium wire (offset best), and without it, there may be a different type of brown streak.

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.

Make a bold start (possible to protect first moves with micro nuts) up to the ledge then step left to the corner. A tricky move up to the next rail, and out left to a little perch. Continue up and right on fantastic holds and then left of the big fin at the top.

On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to the top. Scramble off back.

Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back.

A deceptively tricky recess opposite the Dragon Wall.

Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall.

This route is in a collection of features opposite (South) of the Dragon area

Between Ken’s block and Red Turret is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to the platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with the centre of Arête and gun for the top. Walk off and down the gulley to the right of the route.

suggested: extend the deepest draw in the recess

5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.

Perma-draws at the top.

On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.

Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.

Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right-hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.

A great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.

Missing the first hanger- which was already very high.

Badly bolted!

Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress. Lower from Fynhoud chains.

Route on second buttress in alley. Climbs obvious lay back at 1/3rd height, then steep jugs to top.

Climb arête on left corner of third buttress to lower off chains

The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank. Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly runout climbing.

Route on fourth buttress. Climbs obvious diagonal open book (near arch).

Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag.

Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.

Climb to lower offs at top. Well protected. Small cam protects exit move to lower offs.

Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge. Climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A large nut (BD size 13) is useful for the vertical crack. (now bolted as an average sport route - better as a trad climb)

Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.

Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start.

Take the Tube left of Flint Hard and follow the left side of the higher feature and step back right to the chains of Flint Hard at the top.

Closed Project

Take the wide slot that eventually narrows to a hand crack above the pod, between The Passion and Golden Handshake. Better than it looks.

Deadpoint from the rail in the pillar to the obvious hold. Break left and exit through notch in the roof on to the juggy face.

Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall

On the tower on the left. Start from the rock platform on the right. ±1-2m above the ground

Shuffle through the side door and negotiate the wormhole before pulling up onto the face above the cave. Straight up to the top. A unique and interesting line. Walk off the back (involves a bit of a downclimb) or improvise a rapp point.

Approach: On the right-hand side of the cave that houses the bushman rock art is a passage with blocks and then steps. Up the steps and left leads to the wormhole. Slight right is the start of the route on a rock platform.

Climb the centre of the east face of the small pillar, to the right of the cave art, encountered on the path from the second car park. At the top, walk across and step across the crevice to the main buttress and find a suitable abseil point.

Takes the crack to the left of Lang Arm. The start is tricky and although there is good gear there is potential for a ground fall. At the top move right to use Lang Arm anchors.

Bouldery start

Could be harder if you're short

The route immediately left of Forked Tongue, shares anchors with this route.

A must do classic!

Further right along the wall from Forked Tongue, in the deep gully.

Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top.

Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left.

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

Other than referring to a species of snake, B.O.A. stands for Bold, Out there Adventure. Take some long runners to avoid rope drag and enjoy the journey.

Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!

Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.

This route is on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow.

Start up the break on the left of the wall and at the ledge pull onto the second half of the wall just to the left of the corner of the roof.

This route is on the wall that forms the gulley on the first buttress to the right of the King Cobra Prow. Start up the middle break with a tricky start. At the ledge step right to use a lower section of the roof to pull through and then step left and straight up the face to the top. Start will be harder for shorter folks.

This route is on the small face in front of the second buttress to the right of King Cobra Prow.

Head up the face to an overlap. Pull right to layback and up to the narrow roof. Crank through using the finger crack and easily to the ledge. Walk off right.

Scramble to the start, use the routes lo's to abseil down.

Start just right of a recess and then more or less straight to the top with a steep section in the middle.

Takes the vague arête on the right of the buttress at the entrance to the gulley.

Start on the central pillar and climb up over a small lip on 'ok' gear. Continue up over a small roof and straight up to the top of the wall on good rails. Descend off the back via a sketchy scramble or ab off using tat.

Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down the gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk-off back and around.

This route is on the left side of the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head-on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018.

Start up the beak on the right side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep ground to the blunt arête, which ends at a small ledge.

This route is on the left side of the Bushman Wall, which forms a pillar when viewed head-on. Abseil tat as of Mar 2018.

Start up the beak on the left side of the pillar to a ledge. Continue up the steep section and straight to the top.

Climbs diagonally up the face to the right of Lena

Start in the gully and up the face until able to move left and up the right arete of the largest section of the Bushman Wall.

Start just to the right of a small overhang and climb in the centre of the face.

Start near Klip Man but head up and tend right to the top right corner of the wall.

Start 4m right of 'Sweet and Sticky'. Follow the break, to the right of some loose looking flakes higher up and through an overlap.