Rooiberg Guide

To descend, walk right along ledge and abseil down 40OOF.

A direct line to the top of the pyramid, challenging a series of overhangs on solid rock, followed by an exciting traverse.

Note: a bolt will be added in the near future to protect the run out section on the first pitch.

Start: A few meters left of Chain Rattling Baboon Parlour.

1. Pull up onto small left facing shelf and continue up to a ledge. Move left on the ledge and climb directly up the face on thin holds (run out). Follow the good crack on the dark face past an obvious break in the small overhang until reaching a corner ledge under a roof. Pull up left through the roof on good holds, and continue moving left to a narrow stance.

2. Climb up the short left facing corner. Pull through the overhang on small holds to reach a ledge facing a large orange block split vertically. Blast through the large overhang directly above, and continue up the short face to a ledge.

3. Climb easily for a couple of meters on the left of a large white block. Standing on the block, break through the roof directly above via a difficult move (crux). Keep moving straight up on easier terrain until being stopped by a large overhang. Move out and around the block on the left and pull up to a narrow ledge. Good climbing through the obvious break on the right, reaching the blocks at the top of the pyramid, stancing on the right side under the obvious big roof.

4. Climb up into the recess on the right as for Pyramid Scheme. Instead of traversing back left, move up to an excellent hand rail and follow it rightwards for about five meters. Establish strenuously in the break and stance directly above where possible.

5. Move diagonally up and right and climb the vague orange recess. Continue up easily to the top following a vertical face with excellent holds.

Start: Just Left of Dangerous Liaison's corner

1. Climb up to a ledge then go leftwards, passing a pillar to gain a short corner. Follow this, then go diagonally left to a ledge.

2. Traverse 3m right then pull through the overhang. Go straight up through the next overhang to a ledge on the left.

3. Climb diagonally leftwards around the overhang, then up 3m before going diagonally rightwards and through a short wide crack that splits two big blocks. Stance on the blocks.

4. Climb right, around the overhang (as for Pyramid Scheme) but from the ledge above continue up slightly rightwards past a left-facing corner to a ledge.

5. Move up to the left of the lowest part of the roof then go straight up past the right hand end of the main roof to the top.

Start: As for Chain Rattling Baboon Parlour

1. Climb to the ledge then step left to climb the crack line to the right of the CRBP corner. Continue through the overhang and crack above the corner to a small ledge then continue through two overhangs to a ledge on the left (second half shared with CRBP).

2. Climb through the overhang via a very small left-facing corner above the right end of the ledge, then go straight up to another ledge. From the right hand side of the ledge go straight up to and through a short wide crack that splits two big blocks. Move 4m to the right and pull through the right end of the overhang, then up the face above passing a short, shallow corner to a ledge.

3. Climb diagonally leftwards to an obvious wedge shaped block beneath the roofs. Follow the break moving slightly left to gain the lip. Climb straight to the top.

A fantastic route, highly recomended. It is in the shade for much of the day, great summer climbing.

Start: At an obvious crack on the left hand side of Block Buttress.

1. 20m (15) Climb the crack to an easy and obvious traverse. Follow the traverse right and climb up to a bolted stance.

2. 35m (15) Climb up and left onto a shattered shelf. Follow the shelf to the left and where it runs out do a scary pull over (very exposed) and continue up to a ledge on the right. (Pitch could be broken here.) Climb the undercut corner/crack at the base of the ledge, then go diagonally up and left across a face split by horizontal rails. At the left side of the face continue straight up the arete to a good ledge above and to the right. This is at the right hand base of the blocky pyramid that provides the key to this route.

3. 20m (8) Scramble up and to the left to the top of the blocky pyramid.

4. 15m (15) Climb up into the recess on the right, reach high for an excellent rail and move acros the corner onto the face on the left, directly above the belayer. Continue straight up a vague recess to a narrow ledge under another large roof.

5. 35m (15) Traverse easily to the right for 6 or 7m, then climb up to a rail beneath a roof and traverse back left for 3 or 4m to bypass the overhangs. Climb straight to the top. There is a great tree to use as an anchor.

Can use the anchors on ETAGQS to descend.

A very popular route.

The route starts near the point where the approach trail gets to the rock face in a big red recess below the right hand end of the big roof. At this point the trail turns left and follows the rock face up. A convenient block on the ledge, about 5m up a ramp from the trail, marks the start of the route on the right hand wall of the recess.

1. 45m (19) Climb straight up from the ledge to a wide shallow crack with a loose block at the bottom. Climb the crack to it's end and then go left to a large flake. Climb the flake and a smaller one above it and continue straight up the recess to a wide rail. Above the rail is a small roof. Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left (a finger crack a metre to the left has a good layback hold (crux)). Continue up the short off-width crack through the overhang above. Continue up to large ledge.

2. 25m (15) Climb up and left under a large roof. Traverse left using the rail under the roof and decent footholds. Turn the roof on the far left and continue up easily to a large ledge. The next pitch starts 5m to the right below a narrow flaring crack that splits the roof above with a finger crack half a meter left of it.

3. 20m (18) Climb the above-mentioned finger crack. Hand swing to the right under the roof and do an awkward move to gain the ledge to the right of the roof. Climb the chimney above the ledge and move to the face on the left when it narrows after a few meters. Follow a crack to another roof then move out onto the face on the right and climb straight up to bushy ledge above.

4. 20m (14) 6m to the right is an obvious break in the face - this is climbed by the last pitch of Blunt Brothers. Climb up 2m to the left of this, pulling through a small roof on good jugs. Climb straight up until you can scramble easily to the top.

A fantastic meander on superb rock. Easier than it looks all the way. Every pitch a classic! Highly recommended.

The route starts at the same place as Swazi Kings and tends to the right

1. 30m (F3/16) Climb up a few metres before starting a long climbing traverse to the right crossing Crackattack just above it's first cruxy roof. Continue to a ledge that runs out to the front of the buttress. Climb up and right following a stepped recess to a ledge at the base of an obvious off-width corner crack.

2. 15m (F3/16) Climb the corner, using the off-width where necessary and good hold on the face to the left. At the top of the off-width bunch up under an overhang and using a good undercling turn the overhang on the left. Continue up to the large balcony ledge above. The next pitch starts a couple of meters to the right and follows the undercut and blocky right hand arete.

3. 20m (F3/16) Stepping off a protruding shelf (cairn) climb straight up the blocky arete and continue up to the long ledge above. Walk to the right. Continue past Blunt Brothers recess for some 30m to a point just before the next large recess starts. There is a square block on the ledge below a short vertical crack capped by a low overhang breaking right.

4. 20m (F3/16) Climb up to the overhang and rail right and pull up onto a protruding square block. Climb diagonally up and right onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete easily and continue past a ledge to a higher ledge below a steepening in the face.

5. 30m( F3/16) Traverse to the right following the ledge to the off-width corner crack. Climb up a couple of metres till able to move right onto the face to the right of the off-width. Pull through a low overhang and continue up the deceptively easy face to the top.

This is a spicy alternative to the first part of the second pitch of "That's what she said". It starts one meter to the right of the anchor of the first pitch. Climb a small dark red groove/face to a small roof. Pull through the roof to a recess and climb up using side pulls to a slightly bigger roof. Traverse left on a small rail passing through a small bush ( I suggest the next person climbing this to clean the small rail with a nut pick so the gear placement will be much better). Head to a good hold with no good foot holds and pull up to a sloper (high reach/crux). Climb straight up to a comfortable ledge.

18/6a

19/6a+

26/7b

24/7a

22/6c