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The Chess Pieces

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Beschreibung

All topos and descriptions below courtesie of Robert Zipplies and Malcolm Gowans.

Until recently, this area has seen remarkably little development, despite its attractions: rock of Cederberg-like quality, a great setting, its proximity to Cape Town (this reducing the travel carbon footprint) and a reasonable walk-in distance of about 3 hours. The only real draw-back is that little or no water may be available in the dry season or unless it has rained recently. There remains much scope for climbing new routes of all grades.

Water:

It is advised to carry the water that you’ll need up with you. There is no water here in summer, unless there was a recent big dump. During winter and spring however, abundant water is generally found in a drip at the recess at the bottom of the descent gully. Take along water collection containers. If you can, check current water levels with parties who have recently visited the area.

Descent:

Once topping out on the Chess Pieces, walk down in an easterly direction and then trend leftwards towards a small neck and descend into the gulley that divides the Castle from Smalblaar ridge. Some technical scrambling and three short abseils will see you back at the start. NOTE: Be careful of loose rocks! Duration: about 45 minutes.

Gear:

A large rack is recommended, which includes small and micro wires and micro cams.

Einschränk. übernommen von Yellowwood

The Ravine, Amphitheatre and most of the climbable rock is on the farm Gevonden 733 and is privately owned by the Dave Richter family trust. There is tacit permission to climb at Yellowwood by the beneficiaries of the trust provided we do not engage in any eco-unfriendly practises.

Zustieg

From Cape Town, drive along the N1, through the tunnel and into Du Toit’s Kloof, and continue past the Du Toit’s Kloof Resort/Hotel on the left. There are two spots you can park. About 3 or 4 km from the resort, you can squeeze a car behind the barrier (not legal we were told by a police officer) on a long left bend, just before Yellowwood Ravine. Alternatively, about 1km on you can park at the first break in the barrier just below Yellowwood Ravine – this is a farm access road, so don’t park in front of the gate.

Then cross the N1 and walk up to the big pylon a few hundred metres up the slope below Yellowwood Ravine. From here follow cairns up the beautiful, but oh so relentless, valley. Where the scree runs out just below the spectacular amphitheatre, make your way up towards Smalblaar Ridge on the right. Be careful, there are some serious drop offs going around the ridge – follow the cairns. Continue until you get to the obvious overhang offering shade, green grass and magnificient views of the Chess Pieces. The walk will take anywhere from 2 to 4 hours and is best done early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat.

Ethik übernommen von Yellowwood

The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.

"Tread lightly" means no bolting of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!

Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.

It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood. Older routes such as Armageddon Time (and the direct), Blood is Sweeter than Honey and Time Warp are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as Prime Time (and the direct) and Fantastic Time as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. Most, if not all the trad routes on the main wall have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. There is minimal fixed gear and very few fixed stance

A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.

There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.

In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:

Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.

2014: There have been no less than 10 new multi-pitch trad routes established at Yellowwood in the first 5 months of this year. Together they constitute no less than 60 pitches or, combined, more than 1500m of climbing. All the routes have been free-climbed with the vast majority of the pitches of being moderate grade and only 2 pitches of grade 22 and one of grade 24. The routes are all well protected and no fixed gear was necessary.

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