Winterhoek Guide

Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches.

Klein Winterhoek Frontal

The route follows the immaculate line of the tapered pillar immediately left of the amphitheatre. This is R of a large groove/gulley that drops down the middle of the face.

From Campsite in Kloof follow rough path up then trending up r steeply onto grassy shoulder. Walk up grassy shoulder to the rock. Start Scrambling, heading vaguely up and R for the base of the pillar. There is a broad grassy ledge one rock band below level of base of amphitheatre. This rock band is the crux of the scramble. Various ways. Probably easiest to traverse to R skyline. You should now be on level with sickle of grass running into base of amphitheatre. (about 1.5 hours from campsite)

Scramble a further rope length or so to start of first pitch – a short R facing corner above a little ledge. There may be a beacon.

1. Up Corner. Traverse L below obvious smooth open book. (Original route goes up the smooth book above – it’s HARD!! They stood on each others’ shoulders). Traverse about 10m L of book, up ramp L then back up diag R on Pockets, then Rails, cracks, then Ledge. Belay above start of pitch.

2. (Fixed wire above belay is in the wrong place. Next corner R is correct. Original route traversed further R to awkward corner – pin. Not recommended) Up and R steep pull into corner, out L then Up to small ledge below Bullseye Overhang.

3. Up L of bullseye overhang. Then Either up crack step R onto Nose and straight up followed by C grade straight up pitch, or 5m L into corner/groove, up this out L at top. followed by C grade 50m diag R pitch. Belay at narrow ledge system where rock steepens below clean wide open book.

4. Diagonal R pitch or straight up depending on what you did for pitch 3

5. (Spikes Pitch) Up Open Book out R. Up L on suspect rock into shallow groove. Up groove till forced out L, up to good long ledge system going left.

6. (Yates Traverse) Traverse L on ledge system, moving up slightly after about a rope length. Pass a beacon, belay on a massive chockstone in a massive chimney. This chimney is part of the groove/gulley system that runs the full length of the face.

7. Up Bulging wall L of chimney on face holds (tricky) into easy chimney (another one). Up this move L to thin crack up to massive ledge. (walk-off ledge from oceans etc). Next pitch starts on R of bivvy spot.

8. Up rickety rock on ridge, over block down, up past block, up layback, belay on R. Beware nip in tail of this pitch!

9. Scramble to the top.

Descent: From summit follow beacons North along top of wall towards Groot Winterhoek. These lead to large grassy gulley which is followed to grass slopes and eventually back to the shoulder you started on. Descent to campsite about 2 hours.

On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.

Original grade 20 A3, freed at 28.

Start: from a ramp in the middle of the amphitheatre.

1. Climb the small corner to a handrail on the left. Gain a sloping ramp and traverse left to a belay ledge.

2. Traverse 10m left from the end of the ledge. Climb blocky rock at the end to a series of grooves. Belay next to a huge flake.

3. Hand rail the flake. Climb up and back right into a crack which is climbed to a ramp. Move right and layback to a ledge.

4. Climb the crack above to a sloping ramp. Move up and over a bulge. Rail left, then walk across to blocks on the Ledge of Forgotten Dreams.

5. Aid the crack and roof to a hanging belay (bolt).

6. A few free moves left before nailing the bulge to a rail. Aid left to a hanging belay in the corner.

7. Aid through the diagonal crack and up the wall to a hanging belay beneath the biggest roof.

8. Aid/free along the rail left.

9. Aid left into the corner, around and up a vertical crack. Aid and free moves lead to a sloping ramp belay (Bev Bivvi).

10. Aid the crack/corner to the roof. Go left and nail a thin crack leading to a hanging belay.

11. Climb diagonally right to a roof. Handrail left and turn the roof at its left-hand end. Move up to belay in a small corner on the right.

12. Start on the right, and handrail left across a flake to a blocky ledge. Go left to a ramp. Climb this to a wall and rail left to 'Ecstasy Ledge'.

13. Traverse right to the corner, stem it and move left. Climb the wall diagonally left to a ledge below a crack.

14. Climb the crack and continue to the highest ledge. Traverse/walk left and finish up the last 100m of LF route.

Takes a line right of OOF. Start in the same place, i.e. the ramp. Scramble up to the short corner.

1. Climb the corner, up the wall above. Go slightly left to a sloping ledge, then move right, climbing flakes to belay at a rail (peg).

2. Traverse right under the roof to the corner. Climb up and belay on a thin ledge.

3. Traverse left to a break. Pull through and continue up trending leftwards to a ledge next to some blocks.

4. Climb into a corner-system leading to a belay on the ramp below a right facing corner.

5. Climb the corner to rail under the roofs. Traverse left to the Ledge of Forgotten Dreams.

6. Zig-zags Into Infinity Base: From the highest block nail the corner to the rail. Go right and up the next corner. Intricate nailing leads left and up to belay 3m right of the scoop/hollow at the top of the OOF's A2 crack.

7. The Cloak of Black Mystery: Aid straight up on hooks to a pocket. Nail across the wall into a thin crack going diagonally right. Bolt Belay.

8. Afterimages of Pain and Desire: Hook the wall to a slanting seam going left under the roof. Aid left to the bolt-ladder leading to the Halls of Desolation. Straight up to the rail. Move left and through the next roof. Diagonally left on blades and up to the rail under the big roof. Traverse left to belay.

9. The Downbound Train: Go diagonally left to the corner. Drop down and hook left into a very steep corner. Hook the pockets on the left-hand wall and into the crack - The Visions of Paradise. Climb the crack to belay in a corner under a roof.

10. Freeclimb right for 7m, pull through the bulge, and up the corner to a sloping ledge. Climb diagonally right across the wall to a tiny sloping ledge below a blank corner crack: The Silver Hearts Bivvi.

11. Traverse left and up to a small block. Up to a ramp. Climb leftwards up the ramp to a crack through the bulge. Belay in the corner above.

12. Go diagonally left into a rightward arching flake/corner system. At the top traverse left to a triangular ledge - Darkness on the Edge of Town.

13. Layback flakes and corners to reach the ramps and so the long ledge. Traverse left and finish up the last 100m of LF route, as per OOF - The Circle of Silence.

Opened originally at 20 A2. freed at 21.

Start in the same place as OOF and TWOS, at the small ramp leading up to the ledge.

1. Climb up and diagonally right following rails to belay on the right-hand side of a large block.

2. Climb up the thin crack above to rail. Move right to a long corner/crack. Up this to a ledge.

3. Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Traverse right until above the start of the pitch.

4. Start up the flake on the right and follow the break to a stance in a shallow corner.

5. Climb diagonally right over hollow flakes to a big corner which is climbed to a ledge. Walk right to a prow.

6. Start up the ramp and move left to a crack/corner. Up this to an undercut rail. Traverse right and mantleshelf. Move left and up to a stance on a block.

7. Pull over the bulge to reach a corner. Climb leftwards up this to reach Castle Ledge.

8. Traverse right at the same level around the corner until able to layback up a groove to a ledge high on the left. Continue up this further to stance next to a big flake (60m pitch).

9. From the flake climb up and move right. Pull over the bulge and continue up left, then right to belay below a big recess/corner.

10. Climb the recess and move right following grooves and cracks to a big scramble off rightwards to the summit ridge.

The rib right of TTTAAC.

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

A Classic

Long route to top of panel. Can't lower on 70m rope, so use chains on Snortitix.

Tricky start (key #1DMM wire in horizontal ~3m up), then pumpy climbing to the top. Scramble off to the left to descend.

Lower-offs and top rope access.

Lower-offs and top rope access.

Lower-offs and top rope access.

Follow the step like features up and right, then back along ridge to anchors on 'Lego Bolts'.

Tat on top with maillon.

Tat on top with maillon.

Not that much gear on this one. Tat on top with maillon.

Excellent face climbing with a tricky start. Tat and maillon at top.

Very nice route. Crack line and right facing corner up the pinnacle. Tat and maillon at top.

Some insecure blocks and fiddly gear.

Good climbing, gear a wee bit tricky in places.

Rail left where the very thin overlap pinches out. The route came about as we don't have enough balls.

The other side of the Brown and Yellow Face. Steeper than it looks. Climb an approach pitch (14) right of 'Unhygienix' , to the top of a pillar. Walk left to the start of Parallax. At the top of the tower, go down the ramp to the Brown and Yellow face tat rap. Great sustained line.

Climb a few meters into the recess. Move left into a finger crack (small nuts useful at the top). Step right onto a small platform and move up the short recess. Abseil off a big tree to the right.

Beautiful arete that gets progressively harder.

Up the chimney to a rude and strenuous exit. Abseil from 'Edge of Onyx' anchor.

Sustained and pumpy . Up steep grey rock to a shelf. Up and right to the blunt arete. Follow this, mainly on right side until angle eases. Tat point to the right (shared with 'Gortex')

Follow the corner and though the roof to a hand crack. At the next ledge step right and take vague corner to the next wider crack system. Tat point at the top.

Start up steep corner with a difficult move to gain easier ground. Tat point at tree.

Better than it looks. Scramble up to the long crack and corner system, ending at a magnificent perch overlooking the kloof. Tat anchor to the left (shared with Gortex ).

Pitch 1: 20m (17) Head up a thin crack to then transfer onto the slab on your left. Slab up easy climbing to reach a tree. Pitch 2: 20m (21) Continue climbing up and then trend left to reach an open book corner with a thin crack to protect. Surmount the corner to reach a nice ledge above. Pitch 3: 25m (18) From the ledge continue up a face that appears to be suspect at first. Trend through several big holds to reach pleasant climbing that takes you to the summit. Rappel back down the route using trees that are in line with the summit. No rap cord.

Start about 3m right of Crucifix . About 20m downstream of the entrance to The Slot. Hand crack through roof (hard exit), then easy up to massive tree with tat

Start just to the right of 'Pantoffelix', at the corner/hand jam crack. Climb to the roof, pull through on hand jams and/or crimps on the right face. Move to the left side of the gully and follow awkward climbing until a ledge and small tree on the left. Take the path of least resistance to a big tree at the top. Tat anchor, 35m abseil.

Start a few metres to the right of the arete up the slope. (There is more than one option). After bomber early gear do a bold move to good holds and, avoiding actually going to the left edge, head diagonally up right on the face to a tree on a ledge. Climb past the left of a tree and then head up the marvelous scoop for a few meters and then onto the left airy arete to a lower off. The route is 35m long but one can be lowered with 60m rope(s) ending high up on the slope.

Climb past 2 bolts to a break. Continue up the dark unlikely looking rock directly above tending very slightly left to easier ground. Don’t be tempted into the corner and cracks on the left but climb easily straight up on the face to a lower off.

Traverse in and past single bolt left of Playtex . Climb straight up and then diagonally right to finish just right of tree at anchor on Playtex

Thin crack just right of Playtex. Take small gear.

Bolted line through small overlap at half height. Good warm up for the harder routes.

At the back of the Slot and up on left is a short pinnacle. The base is at a height just above ledge where Slick Trix ends. Follows the obvious crack up the middle of the pinnacle. Abseil from tree to left.

Curious crux near beginning then tend right to join Ibex . FA: R.

Techy cruxes, big moves and pumpy . Most satisfying! Past two bolts to funky right traverse. Advised to unclip first bolt after clipping second, and unclip second after clipping third.

Climb up the ramp to the first slightly overhanging step. The climb up the right crack using fist and hand jams (crux) step left to the next crack. Climb it and traverse left along the edge of the slot up until you arrive under the tree. (two rap bolts)

Direct start to Dramatix

Steep, featured arete. Good value for the length.

Short and powerful crack line just right of the bolts. Take care with gear placements.

The corner crack with green left wall. Completes the trio of short routes at the entrance to the slot.

Crack line up the left of the orange face.

Tricky start, then tend up and right to the small left facing corner. Up and left to follow the left crack tending up to join 'Rolex'.

Follow the crack just right of the large hanging vegetation. Continue up the chimney exiting the left at the top. Scramble left to tat anchor above 'Rolex'. FA: R.

Weave up from the bottom left to top right, avoiding loose rock. Finish right of crack on blunt arete. Scramble up to 'Rolex' rap point.

This rib is the far right side of X Factor, facing the Panel. Lovely long pitch up the crack system on the right side of the rib. Start with the shallow chimney, climb through the tree, and follow the crack system to the top, exiting in the middle of the rib. Carefully scramble to 'Rolex' anchor (probably good to stay roped.

Follow the short layback past a small tree (take care with gear). Tend right to intermittent crack up the face. Continue up the wide cracks and breaks (#4 Camalot useful) finishing on the right side of the summit block.

Climb the far right of the three main cracks on the face of the Sphinx. Follow this crack line up to the base of the balancing block. Climb up the front of the block all the way to the top.

Sustained start to wide crack in dark rock.

Crack line on right of panel. Traverse left to use chains on The Lily Flex

On the first buttress on the left on the walk up to the Panel. Start bottom left and tend up and right. Easier and better than it looks.

Traverse under the first bolt to start. Interesting and sustained sequences on pockets to reach the finish crack.

A long voyage, about 45m. After the 4th (and last) bolt, head left to a wide crack Rappel straight back down.

FA: D. Miles?

Split from 'Snortitix' at second last bolt and go to top of crag. To long to lower on 70m rope, so lower to anchor on 'Snortitix'

Diagonally up the broken break. At the top move left and up to access anchors on 'Snortitix'

Surprisingly tricky off width crack at the beginning up to a ledge, easier terrain from there. At the top, you can take a direct line at the off width but there is no gear climbing off the ledge. Alternatively, follow the dotted yellow line round the corner on easy terrain. Done in 2 pitches.

Some loose rock, take care.

Up and right on good laybacks to a small ledge. Up the face to the top crack. Gear above mid ledge is not great.

Follow the arcing layback feature to a vertical crack on the left side of the arete. Move right near the top. Descent: Walk off. Step out right at end of route behind the boulder.

Start in the groove right of the deep crack, progress up slowly tending left. Vertical for its grade, good protection. Tat anchor on top of the left spire.

Climb and stem up the right side of the deep chimney until forced to exit onto the right pillar. Move onto the easier than it looks overhanging face and climb on good jugs until reaching a platform on top. Either ab off here or continue up the new gray face on the left on easier but unprotected terrain. This goes to the top of the spire, and a large slung cord anchor. (The obviously loose block jammed in the chimney to be cleared).

Up the center of pillar with steep start.

Bouldery starts leads to good jugs, go straight up to the big ledge.

Follow the arete to the top. Fun, vertical route, not a lot of gear placements lower down (but easy climbing).

Up the easy ramp then climb the right side of pillar. Stay right of the arête (loose rock) and come back left at the top. .

Climb the crack through a chimney and then traverse right a few meters to find some flakes up to a ledge. Move right to a shield that is setup as a tat rap point. We stopped short of the summit due to time. Potential for more climbing above.

Sustained start, guess at grade, needs other opinions.