A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Scurvy Cormac Tooze J Papendorf Fernand Sieber Marc dM Wian van Zyl Alta Lourette phlip olivier FredWreck
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Vanrhynsdorp 35 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Vanrhynsdorp 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -31.749329, 18.913672
Einschränkungen
This is a vast area, with multiple landowners, see each subsection for specifics
Zustieg
Car: take N7 north toward Vanrhynsdorp. Take a right on the union road for approx 30km until waterfall sign. Turn right & follow the signs until the farm.
Übernachtung
To gain access to “Waterval” simply contact the lady in charge: 027 219 1005 It is a guest farm with rustic chalets and camping (the fee for camping is calculated in a complicated way) http://www.watervalresort.co.za/
To gain access to “baievlei” you’ll have to chat to Johan’s (the owner) son. Jaco 0272191472. To get to the “baievlei” crags you’ll either have to walk about 1km or have a serious 4x4.
Ethik
Please be courteous to everyone there and respect the land and its owners Note that both Waterval and Baievlei's main water supply/catchment is at the individual crags. Please keep it clean.
1.1. Waterval 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern und Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -31.749329, 18.882644
Übersicht
Trad and sport routes in a beautiful setting.
Beschreibung
To gain access to “Waterval” simply contact the lady in charge: 027 219 1005 It is a guest farm with rustic chalets and camping (the fee for camping is calculated in a complicated way) http://www.watervalresort.co.za/
Ethik
Please be courteous to everyone there and respect the land and its owners Note that both Waterval and Baievlei's main water supply/catchment is at the individual crags. Please keep it clean.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Lower CragSteep crag that lies above the resort. This is to your left if head towards the waterfall. Approach (20 Min walk) At the end of the resort you will find a path that starts between the two lapas. This is a well cairned and steep path that leads up the hill behind the resort. The path has some short scrambles close to the crag after which the path leads to the base of the crag which is further to the right. Currently there are two sport routes opened by Hermie Venter | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Kaleidoscope
Erstbegehung: Hermie Venter, 2014 | 24 | 14 | |||||
3 |
★★ Swart Strepie
Erstbegehung: Hermie Venter, 2013 | 25 | 14 | |||||
Upper Waterfall Area | ||||||||
5 |
★★★ Waterval Storieboek
On the main buttress to the right of the waterfall and left of the big overhang is a open book with two vertical cracks on either side of a column. Climb the left crack.
Descent: head right to the gully and path leading down and back to the waterfall. Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, J Papendorf & J. Burger, 2007 | 19 | 3 | |||||
6 |
★★ Grovel Road
On the Upper Waterfall Ledge, to the right of the waterfall and to the left of the big overhang is an open book with 2 vertical cracks either side of the column. Climb the right crack. This is a 45m off width, so bring your biggest friends along.
Erstbegehung: A. Smit, Scurvy, R. de Bruyn & L. Smit, 2012 | 22 | 61m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Godjammit
Approach : as for rest of Upper Waterfall crag, walk up and past 2'nd pool. Just before big roofs on approach to WS, path splits off to the left. Follow cairns to base of rock.
Descent: big tree on ledge offers an abseil down to base of crag with 60m rope. Alternatively top out, follow escarpment over stream and back to main descent/ascent gully. Maybe just on a side note about gear: Doesn't take a standard rack, bring your biggest friends. And nuts... Erstbegehung: A. Smit & W. Fouche, Okt 2019 | 22 | 55m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Warm Water Waltz
Follow the footbath along the river past the 1st pool, past the turn to the 2nd pool keeping left to the path leading to the top. At the beginning of the gully, horizontal to the start of the route break off the path and follow the ledges to the line of bolts. *Bolts sponsored by MCSA-HH Section Erstbegehung: phlip olivier & J Papendorf, 2007 | 22 | 78m, 3, 13 | |||||
Miss Daisy Area | ||||||||
10 |
Driving Miss Daisy
Erstbegehung: J Papendorf & phlip olivier, 2007 | 17 | 2 | |||||
11 |
Little Miss Sunshine
Erstbegehung: Nicholas Le Maitre & D. Kruger, 2008 | 17 | 2 | |||||
12 |
Herbie Goes Offroad
Erstbegehung: J Papendorf & phlip olivier, 2008 | 19 PROT:R | 2 | |||||
Boom StraatGetting There: +/- 1h. Follow the footpath along the river past the 1st pool and up to the gully to the left of the waterfall. Continue up the gully and top out to the right. Move along the top till you reach the waterfall. Follow the river against the stream staying to the left of the kloof. At the fork, scramble down into the kloof and head down the right hand branch. At the next fork the crag is on your left. Info: All the routes at this crag use natural gear. An easy scramble around the left of the crag gives you access to the top for putting up a top rope or retrieving gear at the end of the day. | ||||||||
14 |
With a Little Help From My Friends
Climb the tree till you can reach the rail. Continue to top. Erstbegehung: Nicholas Le Maitre, 2008 | 15 | ||||||
15 |
(Direct) Without Help From My Friends
Ignore the tree. Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2008 | 20 | ||||||
16 |
Passing the Pocket
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2008 | 18 | ||||||
17 |
Fire in the Sky
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2008 | 17 | ||||||
18 |
Deep Purple
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2008 | 16 | ||||||
19 |
Smoke on the Water
Erstbegehung: J Papendorf, 2008 | 17 | ||||||
20 |
Get Me to the Church on Time
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2008 | 18 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
First GullyGetting there: Follow the footpath along the river past the 1st pool, then past the turn to the 2nd pool keeping left to the path and up to the gully. Info: There is a mixture of Sport and Trad routes at this gully. I do not know the names of these routes and am just putting down the names we normally use to refer to them. | ||||||||
22 |
Enjoying the Improbable
Follows a series of left leaning fins to a puzzling crux on the face. Start up the short black-streaked wall, passing to the left of a hanging bush 5m up. At the ledge pull up onto the first fin (marginal gear), then great climbing just right of the fins to the dark orange face (crux) below the final overhang. Pull right onto platform and then to the top. Abseil point from tree and touch point in situ. Erstbegehung: Richard Halsey, Mai 2016 | 23 | 30m | |||||
23 |
The Physics of Tears
Takes a direct line up the centre of the face to the left of Johan’s 19
Erstbegehung: Richard Halsey & M. Bosman, Mai 2016 | 20 | 50m, 2 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Johan's 19
A fantastic 3 pitch grade 20 This route can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. It is a beautiful dihedral. An easy description for it will be: “Follow the dihedral crack to the top.” Erste freie Begeh.: J Papendorf & phlip olivier, 2008 | 20 | 3 | |||||
25 |
★★ The Pinnacle Route
As you enter the gully this fully equipped sport route is on the obvious pinnacle to the left. Erstbegehung: J. Botha, 2006 | 17 | 8 | |||||
26 |
★★ The Extension to the Pinnacle
Start at the top of the pinnacle. You can either walk around to the top or do route #2 and #3 as one. Erstbegehung: J. Botha, 2006 | 18 | 7 | |||||
27 |
The Easy Trad Route
To the right of #3. Follow the easiest way to the anchors at the top. Erstbegehung: J. Botha | 16 | ||||||
28 |
The Easy Trad Route Direct
Climb the direct line to the anchors. Erstbegehung: J Papendorf, 2007 | 19 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★★ Johan's 20
This route is on the opposite side of the gully. You’ll pass it if you opt to walk from #2 to #3. Erstbegehung: J. Botha, 2006 | 21 | 7 | |||||
30 |
Fransie Buurman's Arête
Climb the obvious arête. Erstbegehung: F. Buurman, 2007 | 19 | ||||||
31 |
★★★ Sweet Sixteen
A bouldery climb following a spectacular line on the prow.
Note: with careful rope management it is probably better to combine both pitches. Exit: scramble out in the gulley a few meters to the right. Erstbegehung: Fernand Sieber & Dale Tristram, 11 Mai | 21 | 23m, 2 | |||||
32 |
Above the Verreaux
A massive, varied pitch with a demanding crux section that climbs the entire length of the buttress. Start at the far right end of the ledge (accessed from the main gully). This is about 7m up from the forest below. Head straight up the dark brown face to the recess above. Continue up passing the right side of a ledge with blocks. Follow more recesses and cracks to a narrow roof with black streaks above. Step left and follow two sections of finger cracks in orange rock to an overlap. Use the steep layback crack to gain a horizontal break up and right. Hard moves up and left to the next wide rail. Pull up and right into a small right facing corner. Finish up the face just right of the arête. Erstbegehung: Richard Halsey, Mai 2016 | 24 | 55m | |||||
Lowest Pool Area | ||||||||
34 |
★★★ AquaDucks
From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven” (RD to follow) From the “Grey Ledge” find the obvious corner crack. Climb the corner crack in 1 pitch. Descent: Rap from the prow in 25m to gain the Grey Ledge. Alternatively, scramble up 10m and follow the path down. Erstbegehung: J Papendorf, 2010 | 20 | ||||||
35 |
Teardrops From Heaven
From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Scramble until the bottom of the Grey Ledge.
Erstbegehung: J Papendorf, D. Viljoen, U. Deutschlander & phlip olivier, 2010 | 11 | 3 | |||||
36 |
Half Jack
From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven” Walk to the right most edge of the “Grey Ledge”. Head up and right till the black and grey ledges run out. On the face in front of you you'll find an ear-shaped flake. Use this and slopy rails to gain the roof above. Pull through this and the next roof, over a thin black face and onto the big ledge shared with “Teardrops from Heaven”. From a block on the ledge pull strenuously through the roof onto a short black face leading to the top. Descent: follow the path down. Alternatively rap 52m from the lip of the fall. Erstbegehung: phlip olivier, 2010 | 23 |
1.2. Baievlei 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -31.749329, 18.946931
Einschränkungen
To gain access to “baievlei” you’ll have to chat to Johan’s (the owner) son. Jaco 0272191472. To get to the “baievlei” crags you’ll either have to walk about 1km or have a serious 4x4.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ 1st Upon a Time
Start in the small corner on the Column.
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier & J Papendorf, 2007 | 19 | 4 | |||||
2 |
A Second Coming
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier & J Papendorf, 2007 | 20 | 4 | |||||
3 |
★★★ 3 to Thunder
Below the RD for the first ascent: Gain the “Thunder Ledge” via “Initiation Scramble” (D grade). Follow the main rightward leaning crack in the middle of the face in 3 pitches.
Alternative RD (As per 1st free ascent):
Erstbegehung: phlip olivier & J Papendorf, 2007 Erste freie Begeh.: phlip olivier, 2010 | 24 | 3 |
1.3. The Slab 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Alle Sportklettern
Beschreibung
Triangular slab boulder.
Zustieg
A few minutes drive past the entrance to the Waterval resort on the neck.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
★★ Come up to the Lab
Erstbegehung: Tony Lourens, 2011 | 15 | 4 | |||
2 |
★★ And See what's on the slab
Erstbegehung: Tony Lourens, 2011 | 17 | 4 |