Waterval Guide

On the main buttress to the right of the waterfall and left of the big overhang is a open book with two vertical cracks on either side of a column. Climb the left crack.

1. Start on the grey lichenous face heading left to the small chimney/off width. Stance at top Chimney/offwidth on a small ledge.

2. Climb the layback crack to a small ledge with a tree. Climb the face directly above the crack and to the left of the tree to a big ledge under a big roof and stance.

3. Walk 5m to the right and climb the crack into a corner with small roofs. Pull through the roofs to the summit.

Descent: head right to the gully and path leading down and back to the waterfall.

On the Upper Waterfall Ledge, to the right of the waterfall and to the left of the big overhang is an open book with 2 vertical cracks either side of the column. Climb the right crack. This is a 45m off width, so bring your biggest friends along.

1. Start at the right hand base of the column and head up into the crack, a nice ledge on your right is reached after 22m.

2. Continue up the crack. At the little roof, head leftwards up into the off width, on to a big ledge, shared with WS. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined if your rack lasts.

3. Walk 12m right along the ledge until you reach a tree where the ledge tapers out. Break through the small roof and continue up into the recess. Head leftwards at the top overhang to top out. An alternative finish would be to join the last pitch of WS.

Approach : as for rest of Upper Waterfall crag, walk up and past 2'nd pool. Just before big roofs on approach to WS, path splits off to the left. Follow cairns to base of rock.

1. Climb the recess at base of the crag. After 8m and a ledge, get into the beautifully clean off-width, and follow this to a big ledge.

2. Get into the off-width. After 4m break out left, following the rails and finger cracks diagonally up and leftward, staying left of the main off-width. After the big roof, off-width and left breaks merge. From here follow the obvious slanting off-width to a big ledge with a tree on.

Descent: big tree on ledge offers an abseil down to base of crag with 60m rope. Alternatively top out, follow escarpment over stream and back to main descent/ascent gully.

Maybe just on a side note about gear: Doesn't take a standard rack, bring your biggest friends. And nuts...

Follow the footbath along the river past the 1st pool, past the turn to the 2nd pool keeping left to the path leading to the top. At the beginning of the gully, horizontal to the start of the route break off the path and follow the ledges to the line of bolts.

*Bolts sponsored by MCSA-HH Section

1. Between a red face on the right and a grey face on the left is a ledge above a tree. Climb the white face to gain a crack. Follow the crack to the ledge 15m up.

2. Follow the crack and finish by pulling though a small roof.

1. Climb the face of the left of P1 of 'Driving Miss Daisy'. Climb the corner to the large ledge 15m up.

2. Climb from the extreme righthand edge of the belay ledge. Climb the face via the rails and the vertical crack. Finish by pulling through a small roof.

Climb the tree till you can reach the rail. Continue to top.

Ignore the tree.

Follows a series of left leaning fins to a puzzling crux on the face.

Start up the short black-streaked wall, passing to the left of a hanging bush 5m up. At the ledge pull up onto the first fin (marginal gear), then great climbing just right of the fins to the dark orange face (crux) below the final overhang. Pull right onto platform and then to the top. Abseil point from tree and touch point in situ.

Takes a direct line up the centre of the face to the left of Johan’s 19

1. Start up the centre of a short brown face up to a wide crack formed with a boulder. Pull onto the face above and continue up and right along a series of three small, right-facing bulges. Belay at small ledge.

2. Continue straight up the face on layback features. At the height of the large, vegetated ledge to the left, continue up the face, where a tricky move leads up and right to access the shallow corner just below the top.

A fantastic 3 pitch grade 20 This route can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. It is a beautiful dihedral. An easy description for it will be: “Follow the dihedral crack to the top.”

As you enter the gully this fully equipped sport route is on the obvious pinnacle to the left.

Start at the top of the pinnacle. You can either walk around to the top or do route #2 and #3 as one.

To the right of #3. Follow the easiest way to the anchors at the top.

Climb the direct line to the anchors.

This route is on the opposite side of the gully. You’ll pass it if you opt to walk from #2 to #3.

Climb the obvious arête.

A bouldery climb following a spectacular line on the prow.

1. A difficult start in the corner gains the chimney. Climb it to a ledge.

2. Climb the arching crack to the skyline (crux). Continue following the crack until reaching a large ledge.

Note: with careful rope management it is probably better to combine both pitches.

Exit: scramble out in the gulley a few meters to the right.

A massive, varied pitch with a demanding crux section that climbs the entire length of the buttress.

Start at the far right end of the ledge (accessed from the main gully). This is about 7m up from the forest below.

Head straight up the dark brown face to the recess above. Continue up passing the right side of a ledge with blocks. Follow more recesses and cracks to a narrow roof with black streaks above. Step left and follow two sections of finger cracks in orange rock to an overlap. Use the steep layback crack to gain a horizontal break up and right. Hard moves up and left to the next wide rail. Pull up and right into a small right facing corner. Finish up the face just right of the arête.

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven” (RD to follow) From the “Grey Ledge” find the obvious corner crack.

Climb the corner crack in 1 pitch.

Descent: Rap from the prow in 25m to gain the Grey Ledge. Alternatively, scramble up 10m and follow the path down.

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Scramble until the bottom of the Grey Ledge.

1. Gain the Grey ledge and traverse right. Climb to the next large ledge and walk right to right of the big block.

2. Climb towards a 2m tall crack. Climb the crack. Traverse into the exposure until below an obvious short corner. Climb the corner to a ledge under roofs. Walk past the blocks on the ledge and stance at the end of the ledge.

3. Step onto the black blocks. Step right and climb to the top. It is recommended to climb only when the waterfall is completely dry, but it may be possible to climb if there is a small waterfall.

From the lowest pool scramble against the face and scree left. Gain the “Grey Ledge” via first moves of “Teardrops from Heaven” Walk to the right most edge of the “Grey Ledge”.

Head up and right till the black and grey ledges run out. On the face in front of you you'll find an ear-shaped flake. Use this and slopy rails to gain the roof above. Pull through this and the next roof, over a thin black face and onto the big ledge shared with “Teardrops from Heaven”. From a block on the ledge pull strenuously through the roof onto a short black face leading to the top.

Descent: follow the path down. Alternatively rap 52m from the lip of the fall.