Main Alles traditionelles Klettern 7 Routen in Sektor

An adventure in a parallel universe. This route follows a huge, prominent corner system snaking up the steepest section of the wall. It starts by taking a direct line cutting through the lower, winding pitches of A Private Universe (APU). This is a mixed route: mainly traditional with 14 lead bolts over entire route. It shares 2 bolted stances on A Private Universe (APU) and has additional bolted stances for efficient, inline hauling.

Start: about 30m left of the APU pillar, by a tree and cairn below a broken, left facing recess.

1. Start is easy, but first good gear is fairly high up, so approach with caution. Head up a short slab to gain the broken, left facing corner. Head up and traverse ~2m right to a small platform with two wedged blocks. Up the short, left facing, hand jam corner and step right. Continue up and left to a wide V-shaped break at an overlap. Pull through this, then up and right to a narrow ledge with an old rap bolt on APU. Continue up ~1m left of the bolt to a rail, step right to a recess. Up another meter or two and traverse left to a double bolt anchor with ring hangers.

2. Head back right and up easy ground (taking care for loose rock) until able to move back left to another double bolt anchor.

3. Scramble up and right to gain grey face. Up straight past 2 bolts to a vague horizontal break that takes small and medium cams. Tend up and left (useful #0.5 Camalot slot enroute) to join the corner system (first flake is fragile) that arcs up and right. Pull over a bulge to a sloping ledge below a wide rail (#4 Camalot useful). Step left to follow the good holds within a section of broken orange rock up and right into a narrow right facing corner. Follow this to the ledge and use the bolted anchor on APU.

4. From the anchor walk left ~7m and pull up a short, featured slab (small wire to protect move off ledge). Traverse back right to ascend the narrow, left facing corner. Stance as the grey corner ends (not higher up) as this is where gear is best.

5. (4 bolts) The Shale Band. Up past a bolt to a rail. Move left and follow the crack system to a bulge. The upper section of the crack is fragile in places – take care and do not place gear behind the block. Pass two bolts in the shale to a rail. Traverse right and clip one bolt on APU at the lip of the roof. Establish above roof and tend up and right for ~10m to belay below an orange face.

6. Follow the crack system up the orange wall and near top step left and up to the bolted anchor on APU. If sleeping at the Private Bivy, head up easily to the narrow roof and traverse right to finish on Meteor pitch 6. From the Private Bivy, one rap brings you back here to continue the next day.

7. Scramble right over easy terrain and up to a rail below the big corner above. Pull through a short steep section (decent cam just over scoop) on good holds and then up and right to join a finger-crack running up the right wall of the corner. Step right just before crack ends and stance at a small platform (medium cams).

8. (5 bolts) Climb past the bolt to a small square perch. Head steeply up past 4 bolts to exit left, and then back right to small stance on a ramp (medium cams on the right). This pitch can be climbed with a few small cams/wires , 5 quickdraws and #0.5 to #1 Camalot size cams for anchor.

9. (1 bolt) Up from the stance and left past a bolt to a narrow horizontal shelf. Follow vertical slots (micro cams, small wires) to a rail under a roof. Step left and pull over onto a ramp. Follow the corner-crack to a stance by the black water streaks (medium cams). Do not stance further up directly under the base of corner (where any jammed blocks in the crack would fall is dislodged).

10. Climb up the right wall and traverse right to the arête. Move up and then back left on face to join main corner. Follow this, tentatively passing some jammed blocks, to a bivy cave. There is a bolt for hauling at the left side and 2 bolts on the far right (around the corner) at a second sleeping spot. Above the large boulder in the cave takes #3 or #4 Camalots. Take care as the floor of the cave is a bit unstable.

11. (1 bolt) From the left side of cave pass a bolt to a small shelf. Climb left under the roof (be careful of possible swifts nesting in the roof) into the left facing corner. Follow this and exit right at the top to a ledge. Up ~2m to a rail. Manage ropes carefully, and traverse left and diagonally up to sleeping ledge. There is a bolt and cam backup to belay/haul at.

12. (2 bolts) The Impossible Corner. From the sleeping spot, climb the corner to the roof. Traverse right to a finger crack. Continue until forced to exit right to an airy perch.

13. Climb up and right over easy ground along a wide crack, then back left up the face. Stay to the right of a large, balanced block buy using the thin under cling crack to the right – pull over to a sloping ledge. Head left and up before coming back right to the break in the roof with a large, wedged rock. Follow the ramp to a stance on a small ledge.

14. (1 bolt) Traverse up and right for ~10m to the right side of bulging section by a bolt onto a sloping face. Up and traverse left under a large a fin shaped rock (possibly not attached to mountain) ignoring the bolt in the corner heading right which is on Meteor. Continue up a crack on the left side of a pillar and move right and up to a small stance at a rail. Just up and right are a few large blocks stacked on a small ledge.

15. The Sting. A demanding pitch requiring careful rope management. Move up and left to gain the steep, awkward corner system. At the top of the corner, where there is a small ledge on the left, stay right though a bulge and up a short black and orange face to the final slab. Mantle up and traverse 2m left. Continue up the right side of a gulley to a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff.

Notes:

Suggested rack: 60m half ropes and a 60m haul line (tag line saves weight for leader).Cams – double set of cams from micro to #0.5 Camalot, doubles from #0.75 to #3 Camalot and one #4 Camalot (recommended but not essential). Standard set of wires sufficient.

Hauling: See Topo for recommended haul stances. Tie off at each anchor to protect leader in case bags fall off ledge unexpectedly. If sleeping at Private Bivy, bags can be left there and hauled after pitch 9 (60m line) or at the cave (after pitch 10) if you happen to have a 70m haul line.

Joe Möhle had the idea to attempt the same corner system (pitches 7 to 12) many years before, but he chose to do so ground-up rope solo! Starting on the lower pitches of APU, his trip ended with a long fall in the first corner (pitch 7), injuring a leg and his lower back, resulting in ropes and gear abandoned onthe cliff and a long hobble back home.

In memory of our friend Teo Iliev (1993-2021).

A sustained voyage with many excellent pitches, exposed positions and a wild finish leaning out over the entire cliff. This is a mixed route: mainly traditional with 24 lead bolts over entire route. It shares 3 bolted stances on A Private Universe (APU) and has additional bolted stances for efficient, inline hauling.

Start: at the large rock pillar leaning against the wall as for APU. The first pitch follows APU and then goes straight where APU continues right. The first pitch is described in detail as alternative breaks in the lower roof are more run-out and scary, and other parties have got lost on this section.

1. Up the leaning pillar and then continue up and slightly right to gain the narrow roof ~30m up. The break to aim for has a lower section of roof on the left (with a wide crack in its underside) and then another roof ~1m higher on right (see photo). At the lower roof section, rail right for ~1m – slightly grassy but can take a #4 Camalot. Pull back up and left to layback holds and pass the higher right-hand roof section on its left side. At this level, head easily up and right up for few meters, then head straight up the face to the narrow roof above (~42m above the ground). Move slightly left and then up a vertical crack below a large prominent tree. Bolted haul station to the left of the tree.

2. Move up and right to above the tree and then more or less straight up to top of the slabs. Single haul bolt below a rail.

3. (1 bolt) Start slightly left of the anchor up the face to pass the roof on its left side. Follow the arête, often on good holds to the left, past a bolt to the final overlap. Straight up to a bolted APU stance.

4. (4 bolts) The Pyramid. Starting slightly right, move left to the bolt and up the thin seam to a ledge. Head diagonally right along the side of the Pyramid (#4 Camalot useful) to the apex. Pull up onto the steep, blunt arête passing 3 bolts, then slightly left to a small, right-facing corner. Exit the top of corner to the left (cams at ankle height) and traverse left a few meters until able to mantle up to a ledge with double bolt anchor.

5. (3 bolts) Climb up past 2 bolts to a roof above a shale band. The second bolt can either be climbed straight with a reachy move or to the right on crimps. At the roof, move left and pull through at the third bolt. Continue up ~5m to belay at a narrow ledge with a finger rail 2.5 m higher up (#0.4 to #0.5 Camalot size required).

6. (4 bolts) Head up and left to the base of the arête (bolt). Pull around the arete and pass 3 more bolts, exiting right at the top of the corner. Step back left to a large left facing corner (optional stance) and then follow the weakness up and right to arrive at the bolted APU anchor on the far-left side of the Private Bivy (APU takes a lower rising traverse to the middle of the Private Bivy).

7. (1 bolt) The Boulder Move. From the anchor on the far-left side of the left-hand bivy ledge, boulder past the bolt, then straight up into the corner crack to a narrow ledge (small to medium cams).

8. Traverse right for ~2m and then diagonally up right on easiest line to the rail below the roof. Rail right for ~10m, passing under the steep, wide crack on APU to an airy perch with a rail for small to medium cams. It is possible to use similar gear in the rail and to step down and right ~2m to another narrow ledge for a more comfortable stance.

9. Start up a finger crack to the right of the perch stance and step back left to a prong above the belay. Navigate the steep recess to a rail under an overlap. Traverse left to the 3 bolt anchor on APU.

10. Traverse left on a good foot ledge, under the bolts on APU. Continue left, stepping down a level and then back up to a left- facing groove. Pull up the wide crack and left onto the face, then traverse a few meters further left to a bolted stance.

11. (3 bolts) Step right and then up past two bolts to a ledge. Climb the steep, fierce crack to a bolted stance above a small ledge (this is the right end of the Moonshine Cave – possible bivy).

12. (2 bolts) Tricky moves off the anchor past a bolt and small cam placement to a rail. Carry on up and then slightly left to the 3 bolt stance on APU (possible bivy on the Long Ledge to the right). Tend up and left (APU goes right) passing one more bolt to a big ledge with good rail for finger size cams. The Moonshine Ledge can be accessed by traversing ~25m left – lower out and haul bags if sleeping there.

13. This pitch wanders a bit and requires careful rope management (see photo). Directly above stance is a grey, left facing corner. Climb this until you find a wide gash that breaks off to the right. Follow this to a rail. Traverse right a few meters to some good vertical slots. Pull up to a rail, then traverse right again to an orange bulge. Up to a rail (APU bolts even further right), then traverse back left to a right facing recess. Finish up this to a broad ledge. Here, APU bolts go up and right, but move left and stance (finger to medium size cams) below the steep bolted face.

14. (4 bolts) The Sport Pitch. Fly up the overhanging face past 4 bolts to a rail at the roof. Traverse left until able to pull up onto easier ground. Step right and up to a ledge (bolted anchor). Can be climbed with 4 quickdraws and a handful of finger to medium sized cams.

15. A stellar pitch of moderate climbing. Start just right of the anchor and tend diagonally right for ~6 m, then tend left across the face aiming for the narrowest break through the overlap (with a semi-attached chock stone). Head straight up towards a small triangular roof, then move left to exit left via a vague diagonal under a slanted roof (see photo). Stance at good horizontal rail ~5m higher at a sloping shelf. To the right on the ledge is another possible bivy.

16. (2 bolts) Up left to a mantle by a bolt, then up and further left until reaching the large fin shaped rock (Moonshine traverses under it). Step right into the left facing corner with one bolt. Exit onto a sloping shelf and traverse right to a grey left facing recess. Up to the roof and rail right. Either stance at the first narrow ledge (more in line with next pitch) or slightly up and left on a bigger grassy ledge.

17. Follow the rising weakness on the right with a steep finish onto a grassy ledge.

18. The Space Cowboy. Start up the corner to reach the roof. Rail ~5m right (#4 Camalot useful) and pull up onto the enormous rib to ride the bronco and the end of the universe. Dismount and finish up and slightly left to find a bolted anchor over the lip.

Notes:

Suggested rack: 60m half ropes and 60m haul line (tag line saves weight for leader). Triple set of cams from micro to #0.5 Camalot, doubles from #0.75 to #3 Camalot and one #4 Camalot. Standard set of wires sufficient.

Hauling: See topo for recommendations. Tie off at each anchor to protect leader in case bags fall off ledges. Fortunately it is possible to do one haul through the Dog Leg. Pitches 7 to 10: a 60m line on the bags left at the Private Bivy can be tied tight at anchor 9 and the leader can trail the remainder of the haul line across the traverse and it just reaches anchor 10.

A rap in and climb out route. Two money pitches and two linkers. A nice day out for those wanting to experience the Slanghoek exposure, without the big wall logistics.

Start: do the first long 60m rap on APU. From anchor 15 (as per abseil topo), go straight down for 35m to ledge with some large blocks and a large tree.

1. (1 bolt) Start left of the tree, over some blocky ground to a thin seem and bolt. Straight up the step recess to a rail, traverse right ~2m and pull steeply over the roof. Straight up to a hard move (crux) before easier ground continues directly up to a finger crack just before the bolted anchor.

2. Tend up and right keeping just right of the series of steep orange overlaps. Up the blocky recess to belay on the left side of a giant, grey, disc shaped boulder.

3. Step left and up orange rock to a vague corner. Steeply up and left into a bottomless open book. Follow cracks to exit right onto a ledge. Traverse a few meters right under a crack in the narrow roof to an easier looking break on the right.

4. 15m (18) Pull over the low roof into the left of two water run offs with gritty rock. At the ledge ~5m up, traverse right for several meters (there is gear in the vertical grooves – small cams and wires). On left side of ledge, pull up and left onto a slab with more vertical groove on the right. Straight up on flat edges to the left of main groove to reach the top roof. Pull up and right to a stance on the rim (#2 Camalot size crack and can be backed up on highline bolts ~7m to the left).

Notes: First pitch climbed clean on second but not on lead as of July 2021.

1. (25m 20) Clamber up the obvious pillar in the middle of the main (right hand) wall. Belay atop this pillar. Head up to an overhang, traverse a few metres and break through the overhang. Head up and then traverse right to belay.

2. (25m 17) Head around the corner to the right then up an easy recess and up onto the vegetated easy ground.

3. (35m 12) Scramble up and to the left to belay at a small tree at the base of an obvious flaky recess.

4. (25m 19) Climb the delicate recess and then out right around an overhang and up to a stance.

5. (25m 16) Traverse out right then up an obvious break to reach a roof. Traverse back left under the roof then up to a stance.

6. (30m 12) Head out left along the rising ledge system then up a little to belay.

7. (25m 16) Head on up blocky ground then out right around a corner to a belay ledge.

8. (25m 21, A1) From the right end of the ledge head up to reach the huge razor flake. Gingerly head up this to get to the roof above then traverse left to break through the overhang and up to a stance.

9. (30m, 19) Head up then follow the fault line as it leans right.

10. (40m, 20) Head up until forced out to the right. Traverse spectacularly on hard orange rock then up to a good sleeping ledge. From the sleeping ledge clamber around to the left to gain a higher ledge system at the base of an overhanging recess.

11. (35m, 20 A1) Mostly free and on excellent rock climb the recess upwards and outwards using micro nuts for aid where the crack squeezes out. Break right to reach a hanging stance on bolts.

12. (30m, 22 A1) Climb directly up to the huge overhanging bulge and use the hand crack to climb spectacularly out and over to easier vertical ground. Head up to a hanging stance.

13. (30m, 22 A1) Head up to climb the improbable outward leaning orange face to the left. Gain the recess and get up to a handrail. Head spectacularly out left and awkwardly get onto a ledge over and up to the left. Ascend difficult ground to belay much higher on a large ledge.

14. (35m, 22 A1) Crawl to the left of the ledge then up the yet-again outward leaning orange face to the left (do not get led right by gear high up on the grey face – a nasty place!). Climb the orange face and proceed through assorted overhangs to reach easy ground. Reach a belay halfway up the pillar ahead.

15. (25m, 19) Climb the pillar then up steep ground until getting up to a stance on a sloping ledge.

16. (10m, 19) Traverse right around a corner and then up to a stance.

17. (40m, 18) Climb directly up to a thin flake taking care not to drop it onto the belay. Trend right and up through mixed ground to reach a stance on a ledge.

18. (25m, 19) Head into the recess above, then out left onto the face. Head up and leftwards to gain a vertical crack. Continue up to a stance on a small ledge.

19. (35m, 22) Climb up and right on easy ground. Ascend the recess for some distance, pull out and over a huge chockstone, head out left onto a slightly outward-leaning orange face using underclings, then up through some small overhangs. At a large bulging overhang ahead use a hand-sized jam crack to overcome it. Head up the bottomless chimney/recess to finish spectacularly on the rim a long way out from the base of the wall.

The first time the amphitheatre was free climbed was via A Private Universe, but with an alternate pitch to the wide, steep crack on Pitch 10. This alternate pitch (which is excellent) was also incorporated into Meteor.

1. Clamber up to the top of the pillar. Head slightly right and up to the overhang, traverse a metre or so right to a break between the lower left section and higher right section of roof. Continue up and right for ~10m and then up to belay near the top of a recess.

2. Continue up and then scramble far left to belay at a small tree at the base of an obvious flaky recess.

3. Climb the delicate recess and then out right around an overhang and up to a bolted stance.

4. Traverse out right then up an obvious break to reach a roof. Traverse back left under the roof and further left to a bolted stance.

5. Head out left along the rising ledge system for ~15m and up into a small left facing corner. Pass an optional belay and continue on rocky ground to a stance at the right end of a ledge.

6. Head up to reach the huge razor flake. Gingerly climb and aid this (taking care of loose rock) to get to the roof. Traverse left to break through the overhang and up left to a bolted stance. A #4 Camalot is useful.

7. Head up then follow the fault line as it leans right to a stance with 4 bolts.

8. Head up and to the right under the Moonshine Corner pitch 7. Traverse spectacularly right on hard orange rock then up to a good sleeping ledge (bolts on either end). From the sleeping ledge clamber around to the left to gain a higher ledge system at the base of an overhanging recess.

9. Climb to the left of the bolts until the roof, then traverse right under the steep, wide crack on APU to an airy perch with a rail for small to medium cams.

10. Start up a finger crack to the right of the perch stance and step back left to a prong above the belay. Navigate the steep recess to a rail under an overlap. Traverse left to the three-bolt anchor.

11. Head up to climb the improbable outward leaning orange face to the left. Gain the recess and get up to a handrail. Head spectacularly out left past 2 bolts and awkwardly get onto a ledge over and up to the left. Ascend a steep bulging crack (or slightly easier but run out face to right) to a bolted stance on tiny ledge. This pitch is usually aided as per original RD.

12. Climb up to a small ledge immediately above the belay. From here move right to a recess which leads up to a belay in the middle of the Long Ledge (possible bivy). Crawl ~ 15m left to a bolted stance for next pitch.

13. Follow bolts, then head up slightly left to easier ground, climbing past a 3 bolt rap anchor on a ledge. Climb up a recess on the left hand side of the pillar above, passing more bolts, to a single bolt stance on a large sloping ledge.

14. Move left and then up and right across the thin technical face to stance with 3 bolts.

15. Climb directly up to a thin flake taking care not to drop it onto the belay. Trend right and up through mixed ground to reach a bolted stance on a ledge.

16. Head into the recess above then out left onto the face. Head up and leftwards to gain a vertical crack. Continue up to a bolted stance on a small ledge.

17. Head up the obvious V-shaped recess. When the recess steepens climb up and left on the orange face using underclings and laybacks, and through some small overhangs. Pull past a chockstone and back right into the steep recess. Head up through the bottomless offwidth/chimney to the top, thenright to 3 bolts on the rim. A #4 Camelot is useful.

Tackles the right side of the amphitheatre, with excellent, sustained climbing on pitches 6 to 10 through the steep orange rock band. Pitch 7 gets a Parental Guidance (PG) advisory warning – it is not dangerously run out, but approach carefully and with a modicum of boldness. More-or-less shares the first 3 and half pitches of RS through the slabs.

Start: at the short pillar leaning against the face – shared with APU, Ruby and Meteor.

1. Up the leaning pillar and then continue slightly up and right to gain the narrow roof ~30m up. The break to aim for has a lower section of roof on the left (with a wide crack in its underside) and then a section on the right ~1m higher. At the lower roof section, rail right for ~1m – slightly grassy but can take a #4 Camalot. Pull back up and left to layback holds and pass the higher right-hand roof section on its left side. Head diagonally up and right to a ledge. Walk right to the base of vague left facing corner crack.

2. Head up the vague corner crack, then step right and up easy ground. Belay at a tree with tat against the short grey wall above.

3. Climb the face a few meters left of the tree (which has a left facing corner crack above it). Traverse right and then up two levels using some cracks and flakes. Continue traversing right all the way to below the base of the large left facing grey corner – easy but sketchy in places. Pop up to a small stance ~2m above the traverse level.

4. Climb the left facing corner until a horizontal break at a height where a traverse to the right meets the base of the next grey corner. Stance at the base of this second corner.

5. Up the corner to a wide ledge, then move right and diagonally up a boulder ramp for a few meters to stance below a right-facing corner and a rightward tending break.

6. Climb the break for 5 m and exit left onto the narrow rail/ ledge. A hanging stance ~1m left of the right end of the ledge is advised due to nature of the next pitch.

7. (23 PG) The Gangplank. Traverse left along the ledge until it narrows at a point directly below a break in the narrow roof ~15m up. Get good gear in the rail at foot height. Climb confidently up to a tiny left facing corner type feature (where there is #9 DMM Offset Alloy Nut or equivalent). Up to a fin and vertical microcam slot. Pull left on good holds and up to gain more sidepulls (and good gear). Weave up the steep face to the roof and step right to the break. Pull through and step left. Finish delicately up the big flake (there is a crack to the left for a medium cam) to the awesome sleeping ledge.

8. The Space Boogy. Start up a series of laybacks that tend up and right to a horizontal break. Continue strenuously up the vertical cracks and sidepulls and step left to a tiny ledge. Move back right into the corner (green alien or equivalent/small offset wires). Pull up to a fragile down pointing flake ~70cm long (do not place gear behind it!). Behind this flake, and almost obscured by it, is a cunning pod in solid rock for a medium cam. Boogy up the excellent face, pulling out right to the arete for the final moves. Up and right to a stance on a small platform.

9. Head up and right (slightly run out) to gain the base of the wide tube type feature that provides a bit of a puzzle. Exit to the ledge and up to a stance on a narrow ledge.

10. The Stargasm. Demanding, strenuous and outstanding. Start confidently up a series of steep cracks and laybacks to a vague recess. Pull up and left via tricky moves to a hand rail. Traverse left over the void for ~2m, and then some big gymnastic moves up and left to gain a small ledge. Finish up the steep recess to a good ledge. Stiff for the grade.

11. Ramble easily diagonally right along the break to one little boulder move. Continue up and stop at a rail at the left end of the higher grassy ledge (this is a much better place to haul from that on the ledge itself). After hauling, move a few meters right to the base of a wide crack.

12. Scramble up right of the wide crack and step back left (do not be tempted by the easy looking, blocky terrain to the right). Punchy start up the grey face aiming for a patch of orange rock ~8m up. Head slightly left, then straight, and by the top of the pitch traverse slightly right to a small platform, just down and left from some steep fins.

13. Start up the steep fins and then up to the wide crack above that breaks through and overhanging wall. Continue straight up more steep cracks and into the Red Giant Cave.

14. Pull through the roof of cave and then tend left to a slight groove. From the top of this, follow a series wide vertical crack and blocks until you can turn right onto a sloping ledge at the base of a slightly brown corner.

15. Up the cracks to a roof, followed by a short rising traverse to the right. Above is a shallow corner, but take the next recess to the right. Continue up the ramp to the tat stance.

16. Take the most direct line up to the visible anchor up and right, that uses the best rock.

Notes:

It should be possible to combine P6 and P7, which would reduce potential fall factor on P7, but could produce rope drag. If you walk in and haul the bottom pitches, then the following seems the best approach: At the end of pitch 2, walk the bags as far as possible to the right along the grass ledge and leave them there. Mid way through P3 (at the Ruby stance on their P3) haul the bags and leave them there. At the end of Red Giant pitch 5, move to the far left of the ledge and haul the bags from there (or traverse further left to Ruby P4 anchor, haul and leave them there).