Right Alles traditionelles Klettern 3 Routen in Sektor

Ultra Violet (23) * 310 m (20, 23, 21, 19, 23, 20, 20, 19, 18, 17, 18) A shorter rap in and climb out route that delivers some great pitches below the Red Giant Cave. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day, or rap to Red Giant Cave if you want a night on the wall. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts then tend slightly left to ledge, traverse to left end of ledge to a bolted stance.

2. 15m (23, 2B) The Milner Pitch. From a good rail, up on positive holds without gear to the first bolt. Straight up the intermittent crack past another bolt to a ledge. Traverse a few meters right to belay.

3. 15m (21, 1B) Up to a small roof and past 1 bolt to the face above. Step right and up a groove until able to step back left to vague ledge. Belay ~2m further left below shallow recess.

4. 35m (19) Climb the right facing recess for ~20m to a ledge (under the big overhanging corner), traverse left ~10m with an entertaining step down at the left end and then up to belay at the base of the open book.

5. 20m (23, 1B) Up the corner past one bolt to exit on top a platform. Continue up and right to good ledge and belay in the middle of back wall.

6. 30m (20) Up the orange rock, step left and up to find a good finger rail (do not climb higher to another rail). Traverse hard left and pull up to a rising crack system on the right. Follow this and pull left round an overlap to a stonking, exposed layback crack to the ledge. Bolted stance (rap route)

7. 40m (20) Crux of this pitch is route finding - good luck! Start up the wide crack to a ledge, move ~3m right, and aim for a broken crack system 5m above. Up this to a roof and traverse left (do not take flared hand jam crack) but further left to easier ground. Up ~10m to a rail, traverse right ~4m to recces and up to an alcove.

8. 25m (19) Mantle up and traverse left to a series of grooves, that lead up into a wide open book. Belay at the ledge (bolted stance, rap route). Traverse left into the cave and next pitch starts in middle of cave as for pitch 14 of Red Giant.

9. 30m (18) Pull through the roof of cave and then tend right. Follow line of least resistance up a wide recess and move left after ~30m to a stance shared with Red Giant on a narrow ledge.

10. 30m (17) As for Red Giant. Up the cracks to a roof, followed by a short rising traverse to the right. Above is a shallow corner, but take the next recess to the right. Continue up the ramp to a bolted stance.

11. 45m (18) Head up several meters and left to a break, traverse back right to ooze up into the base of a wide gash. Do a move or two up then step left on featured rock and straight up, finishing on easy ground.

Two fierce but very different crux pitches, and lots of good climbing on orange rock. Forecast was freezing on first preparation trip. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts and then straight up to the ledge, via a short left facing corner at the top. Belay at bolt by a flake.

2. 15m (24, 3B) Up left to first bolt over a bulge, follow intermittent cracks past two more bolts then straight to the ledge (last part is just left and parallel to pitch 2 of The Final Frontier). Bolted stance.

3. 30m (21, 2B) Start ~2m right of stance and up to arc left to first bolt. Continue up to a short left facing corner and past another bolt to narrow ledge with bolted stance on the right.

4. 30m (22, 2B) Up left to first bolt then tend up and right to a very shallow curved recess. Tend back left under a block and traverse left and up to a bolt. Blast straight up through the break in the roof. Move left and up to stance at a left facing recess with one bolt (good small wire/cam on right, and another rail slightly higher for cams).

5. 35m (21) Head up the wide corner feature, weaving left and right as required. At ~30m up there is a tricky move up and left to a narrow ledge, followed by an airy step over right and up to a cave.

6. 25m (21) Pull up to rail at the roof and traverse right ~2m, pull up to a ledge. Traverse another ~2m right to where a short testing sequence gains a vertical crack system. Follow this for ~8m to the narrow roof. Traverse left on good holds and pull up onto a ledge. Tend left and up for ~15m to find a comfortable alcove below a steep roof crack.

7. 30m (24) Follow the crack to the roof. Strenuously through the steep jam crack to a platform (tape gloves recommended!). Head up and pass a fragile flake on its left side. Continue up and left on steep exposed rock with good holds. Near the top head further left to a bolted stance on a huge ledge. Walk right on the wide, grassy ledge to the very end (~30m). Just around the exposed corner/arete is a stance with in situ thread.

8. 15m (17, 1B) Awkwardly past the big bolder in the corner and then step left and up the arete past one bolt to a mantle onto another huge ledge. Belay from two large boulders (in situ thread). Walk up and right ~15m to below a broken orange recess (left of the big, low roof ~3m up ).

9. 45m (20) Up the attractive orange recess. After ~12m step step tentatively right onto the face to gain some vertical slots. Pull up and right (don’t get pulled out left) to a level where you can traverse easily right 5 m. Up easy water-worn grey rock to the top with bolted anchor on the left. Careful rope management required to reduce rope drag higher up.

Furthest right route on cliff. Steep and sustained, with Pitches 3-5 being particularly excellent. Recommended strategy is to rap in and climb out in a day. Start: On the large ledge at the short pillar.

1. 25m (20, 3B) Start from the pillar, up past 3 bolts and then straight up to the ledge, via a short left facing corner at the top. Belay at bolt by flake.

2. 15m (20, 3B) Start a few meters right of stance, up past two bolts, and traverse left at third bolt into a break that is followed to ledge with bolted stance.

3. 35m (19, 1B) Traverse up and right on grey rock until to a traverse level (~8m above height of belay). Traverse right at a good foot ledge past one bolt to reach a diagonal break in orange rock. Follow this to a bolted stance. The Banger Pitches

4. 25m (21, 2B) More or less straight up to a tricky move past the second bolt to a rail. Traverse ~2m left and up to standing platform at base of recess. Continue up a few meters to stance at a jagged rail.

5. 30m (22, 1B) From stance start slightly right and up to the roof. Traverse left using underclings to the left edge of roof. Move ~1m left and up to a tricky, reachy move past a bolt. Reach back right to a finger crack over roof. Follow the superb leaning corner to below a very wide break in the top roof. At this height traverse left on exposed awesomeness and then pull up to a comfortable ledge.

6. 20m (19) Climb the corner at back of ledge, then traverse right below the roof to a ledge. Continue straight up via some long, testing moves to gain another ledge where you traverse right. Pull up carefully over grey blocks (the projecting one is musical) to a ledge. Stance on right side at base of short corner.

7. 15m (20) A short burly sequence up and right using a short vertical crack and sidepulls further right leads to easier ground. Up and left to a vertical crack system. Follow this to another ledge.

8. 20m (20, 1B) Up corner crack at back of the ledge (punchy start) to a hanging flake in the corner. This feature is solid enough to gingerly climb on, but DOT NOT place gear behind it (hence the bolt up and right). Follow the corner then exit right to platform – there is reasonable left of the single bolt.

9. 20m (19) Pull through the steep V-shaped feature above bolt and up a recess to mantle onto a small ledge on the right. Pull up to a roof and traverse left to a wide rail. A long move here gains the face, then tend up and right to finish up the blunt arete (to the right of a vegetated shoot). Belay at thread at ledge. Walk right ~10m past a big boulder to the right side of the roof (~3m above the ground).

10. 40m (16) One long move to get established above the overlap. Follow the left tending break to a ledge. Traverse ~4m to left end of ledge. Continue straight up easy ground from ~10m, then tend up and left to the top. Bolted belay on the left.