Routen in Western Cape für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Starts left of Cosmic Chaos, around the corner. Sitstart. LH on a slopey ledge and RH on a fat pinch. TO.

Standing Start, right hand in rail, left hand on sidepull. Climb along the left hand crack and top out.

Sitstart. Climb the fingery crack and nearby holds to TO.

Sitstart and climb tending leftward to TO.

Sit start with a low left hand on good hold and climb the corner to top out

Start the slab on the overlapping feature and head left to easy TO

Sit start on the arete right of the arrow. Left hand on undercling, right hand on lower layaway. Bump right hand to better layaway then left hand to the top. Top out.

Stand start left of Coheed. RH in slopey two-finger pocket, climb the slab. Large ledge just above the right is off

Stand-start with LH on a good incut grip and climb straight up the slab and jugs.

SS on good holds and mantle to TO.

Start standing on the far left hand side arete using the opposing side pulls. Move up the arete and top-out.

Note: A stronger climber (with chalk!) could probably do it as a sit-start which makes it a grade or two harder. I also have no idea on the grading and it could be completely off. Advice would be welcome.

Climb up the right side of the arete to the crack for the finish

Bum start and head LEFT up the crack feature.

OLD BOLT=DANGEROUS

Stand start and climb the scooped out face. 'AA: Golden Glow' is behind you.

Bum start and climb up over featured rock.

More or less in the center of the boulder there is a right facing prong at topout. Start 0.5m right of this.

Bum start and climb the slab on solid features to topout.

Bum start and climb the layback crack.

Start where two boulders form an open book, L-shape.

Standing start, climb the white slab past two "blemishes" (bolts, WTF?).

Hang start up on the lower rail on the corner.

Bum start, climb the flake/ slab.

Sit start on good jugs, move up to lip and then traverse all the way along the obvious lip/prow. TO at the peak of the prow, being a similar finish to Mike's traverse.

Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow.

SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin

Jump-start to the hollow then same TO as U19 Girls Basketball.

SDS climb the face using crimps to the R of A1.

SDS at the arete, traverse leftwards staying low and climb the blunt arete from the righthand side

SS and climb the crimps to TO.

Stand and climb the slab.

Stand with slopey holds chest height and then climb arete/prow

Sit, move up arete and finish up the slab.

Previous description which was slightly contradictory read: "Sit up to crimp then finish on the left"

Sit-start with left hand high on a sidepull and right hand on a low incut crimp, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on the arête and right hand on an edge.

Sit-start high on a layaway and climb straight up the arête.

Sit-start with left hand on a large pocket and right hand on a large sidepull.

A Good clean steep route, which latches onto the top sections of FF and BE.

Start: about 5m right of Fingertip or 4m right of Hang Ten, beneath a steep recess with a small roof halfway up.

1. Climb the recess with a few awkward and strenuous moves to turn the little overhangs. Stance on a good ledge.

2. Start round to the left, up a flaky face right of Fingertip to a ledge. Move around to the left into a recess. Climb this, breaking out left at the top to a stance above an overhang which overlooks FF's crux.

3. Move left through a corner onto a face with a detached block. climb to the roof, an traverse left to a stance beneath a corner (this pitch is shared with Hang ten.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right. This is the last pitch of BE.

1. [20] 25m

   Straight up the face at a break in low roof. Pass a higher roof on right and then left of a black roof to reach the ledge.

2. [18] 20m

   Pass the roof on the grey face on the right, then arc back left with a tricky move near the top.

"A friendly tiger, with some good teeth."

Start: the route starts on a brown corner, just right of the tall recess which is first pitch of Tarantella.

1. Pull up the brown corner to a horizontal rail. Do a crouching swing right to a sloping foot-ramp and pull up to a position underneath some blocks. Move left, then right past the blocks to a recess. Climb this until able to hold the top of a vague pillar with a flat scoop on the right. Move onto the pillar. Step left from the top and mantelshelf up onto a long narrow ledge. (Tarentella comes in here, and the next 2m up to the ledge are shared).

2. Take an overhanging break in the white face ahead. Steep pull ups leads to the Halfway Ledge. Traverse left to the corner. (Corner comes up to this corner, and Plumbline takes the rib). Climb the corner to the a big block, then up to a ledge.

3. In front of the big sloping block, the pitches of Crest and Cameron's break through the overhangs. On the right the overhangs end and a yellow, undercut recess lies just left of a wet, grassy crack. Take the small recess (crux). Move left and up to a stance shared with Cameron's Frontal.

4. Step left and up into a crack cutting the overhangs. A big ledge is gained below the long easy ramp of Cameron's.

5. Take the thin finger-rails and diagonal crack through the overhang on the left. Shuffle left to the corner before taking the steep face above, bearing left to a ledge.

6. The tall crack at the back of the ledge is Frontal. On the right is an undercut crack in the corner. Pull around the overhang using a bollard, then climb the corner to a hand rail. Mantelshelf up. Scramble the broken face to a wormhole gully then on to the top.

On the north-west corner of Spring Buttress between the subsidiary wall on the left and the main amphitheatre on the right is a small weathered wall. The climb ascends a crack to the right of centre on the buttress and then climbs diagonally up right past the overhangs. Start in a shallow overhung scoop.

One of the best routes on the amphitheatre with a fine last pitch.

Start: about 10m right of Gates, below an undercut sloping corner/ramp.

1. Stand on the blocks and pull into the corner. Move up left past some small roofs, then continue up leftwards to stance in a cubbyhole on the right.

2. Traverse right to a good ledge below an obvious slanting corner.

3. Climb the corner and rail to a stance.

4. Climb the faint corner to the roof. Rail right, move up to the next roof, then rail back left to clear the roof. Climb the short wall, past the wide horizontal crack to reach a ledge a little higher. One could stance 4m left on a grassy ledge which allows the belayer to watch the leader on the last pitch.

5. Climb up through two horizontal breaks to beneath an overhang, where one steps left to beneath a clean but featured face. Climb the face diagonally right to reach the top.

Start: About 10m right of Men at arms, directly beneath the huge overhang at the top of the amphitheatre. Just left of a corner and right of some black streaks should be a beacon. ( Fear of Flying takes the break on the right with a peg.

1. Pull up on jugs and a prong, traverse left to gain the white nose. Climb up, tending right to stance below a large flake in a horizontal crack.

2. Climb behind the flake, then up the face and through a small roof to a rail. Traverse right and climb the face to stance at a wide rail on Fear).

3. As for Fear Traverse left to stance at either of the grassy stances or the one before it (they are all great, and work$).

4. Climb the face diagonally right, (as for Railrunner).

Start on Podocarpus and then head up the face (some tricky moves) until able to move left into the vertical hand crack. Straight to top.

Pull onto the wall about 2m right of We are the Robots. Tend right and then up the face to pull through the roof using the flake. Step left and top out on We are the Robots.

On the right end of the orange wall is a turret, take this to the ledge, step 2-3m right to climb the face just left of the open book crack. Follow the cracks to a horizontal break that bends up to a vertical crack just left of the route. From the next rail blast through to the top.

Good climbing up to the left side of the small roof (with black streaks above). Then run-out to the top.

1. At the left side of the crag, pull onto the middle of the sea-facing wall. At the first rail, traverse left to a tiny platform, and climb up just left of some vague arête features. Hanging stance at the level of the main roof.

2. Move slightly right and then straight up, using a layback crack system at the vague bulge. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

Start at short grey face. Pull up to a rail and then continue up the centre of the blunt prow. Continue up a left facing corner and at the top step right and then straight up the face to the top.

Start on good hold and move up the slab on beautiful pockets

1. [17] 17m

2. [16] 20m

3. [20] 10m

4. [16] 30m

1. [20] 30m

2. [19] 18m

1. [20] 25m

2. [16] 17m

3. [19] 14m

Start 2m right of 'Staircase'

1. [20] 20m

   ???

2. [17] 15m

   ???

3. [20] 20m

   ???

1. [18] 12m

2. [14] 26m

3. [16] 10m

4. [16] 30m

5. [13] 15m

6. [20] 20m

Start between 'Africa Eyrie' and 'Atlantic Crag'

1. [17]

2. [19]

3. [19]

4. [20]

5. [16]

1. [7] 10m

2. [17] 20m

3. [19] 35m

4. [20] 10m

5. [15]17m

1. [19] 10m

2. [17] 40m

3. [20] 25m

4. [20] 8m

5. [20] 20m

1. [20] 30m

2. [17] 8m

3. walk left

4. [10] 45m

Granite classic! Glue-in lower-off's at the finish.

Start ~6m right of Stuffed Lion, just left of a bush in vague corner. P1, 20m (20). Climb up, step right over the bush and up to a ledge. Step left to a recess, then up to a white, hanging pillar. Move carefully across the pillar to the right, then up to a small roof below a short, brown face. Some tricky reaches bring you to the next roof. Pull through this on good holds, then tend left to a good ledge. Stance below a corner. This will be a grade or two harder if you are short. P2, 15m (15). Climb the crack system in the corner, near the top head left to a wide ledge.

The route starts on a face 2m right of "Luther Played The Boogy", and heads slightly right to a fault in an over lap. Ascend left facing crack before dancing right under the roof to big holds then up to the friendliest natural anchor one could ask for.

Climbs the seam on the wall between “Hung my Head” and “No Charge”. Start: Climb the awkward start of “No Charge”. At the cubby-hole, move left and up through a narrow roof, pick up the thin seam on steepish wall to the top.

1. ±19m (Grade ±20, Consensus requ.): Start ±5m right of the start of pitch 3 (As per D. Mercer book) of White Face. Climb the short brown face and pull up thru the roof to a cubby hole. Tend 2m right and continue up a layback, step left and climb diagonally right to a large platform. If the layback proves too difficult a variation to the left is about 3 grades easier.

2. ±23m (Grade ±17, Consensus requ.): Start where the ledge peters out on the right. Climb the right leaning ramp and pass a few rails heading for the prominent V-Groove. Move through this and tend right through steep sections to the small corner. An abseil awaits at the ledge above the corner. Abseil or scramble to top-out.

The route is between Bantry Crag 32 and Hotfoot 33 in David Mercer’s guidebook and follows a pretty straight line up directly to the abseil anchors above Rainbow Crag’s rib.

P1: Start from the ledge left of the old lookout’s foundation below Rainbow crag. It takes the rib shown as a notable undercut white rectangular hanging block in David Mercer’s guidebook photo. To the right is an easy gully with ribs, which can be scrambled up. To the left is a yellow scoop (has been climbed/bad rock). The main rib is climbed on the left side with friction layback moves to a place on top to stand and get some gear. Then move left and up past a grass tuft to another place to stand and try to place gear for the crux awkward mantleshelf move (Warning-several small cams needed to protect this move). On the ledge above move diagonally left to a low block with a crack that provides a good belay point for cams.

P2: climbs above the sandstone cave where you land from the abseil. (The first moves may be common with Hotfoot according to Mercer’s line and description, but I think we climbed Hotfoot further left?) In the recess are 2 cracks which form a clear V shape from below. Climb the left one, handrail right and layback up to a ledge. Then climb more or less straight up to the abseil point. Very steep and strenuous.

Climb the L town side arete.

Climb the middle of the face to TO.

Climb up to the black veins and beyond.

Sit-start with left hand on the rail and right hand on a pinch grip and head up and slightly right to finish.

Start as for Sunset Riders, now traverse left below the rails on jugs and top-out when reaching the black face and vertical crack just past the arête.

Stand start on two made-for-climbing jugs on the lip.

Sit-start with left hand on a good slot and right hand just below, head right and up along the seam / crack to a positive slot jug on the end of the rail, move up and traverse right to end. No top-out.

Sit-start and head up right to a sharp right hand pocket, and then up the little prow to finish.

Sit-start on underclings and move up to a big ledge.