Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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So 4. Jun 2023 - Chatsworth Edge | |||||||
Mort Wall & Sentinel Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5b | Sidewinder - mit Eszter | 10m | |||||
Not sure what you supposed to use as a hold after passing the horizontal crack, maybe the tree?
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So 4. Jun 2023 - North East Outcrops & Angus | |||||||
Angus Kirrie Hill | |||||||
5a | Glaikit Folly | 8m | Vergiss es | ||||
The anchor only have non locking carabiners with the gates loose.
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Sa 3. Jun 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Subluminal | |||||||
S 4a | ★ Bypass | 10m | |||||
Variation on the route climbed a little harder.
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Jun 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders Bullworker and Crozzle Block | |||||||
6A | ★★★ No Bull Flakes - mit Callum Mather | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Quite a proud first 6A!
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5B | ★ South Arete (unsure of actual name) - mit Callum Mather | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Really fun
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VB | ★★ Bullworker Slab - mit Callum Mather | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Fun & slabby
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Jun 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Business Boulder | |||||||
5B | ★ Big Business - mit Callum Mather | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mega classic & fun
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Jun 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Pebble | |||||||
4 | ★★ Pebble Ledges Left - mit Callum Mather | 5m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Got stuck at the top of the boulder! Very scary down climb for someone who likes the ground very much.
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Mo 29. Mai 2023 - Isle of Skye | |||||||
Sron na Ciche The Cioch & Cioch Slab | |||||||
VD | ★★★ Arrow Route | 61m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Most fun route ever
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Mo 29. Mai 2023 - Anglesey | |||||||
Gogarth North Stack Wen Zawn | |||||||
HVS 5a ~4c | ★★★ A Dream of White Horses | 150m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Epic.
Did the high tide start. Led the 2nd pitch. Seconded the 1st & 3rd pitches. Seconding feels the same as leading on this route! Such a cool feeling being so exposed on climbing around a sport grade of 5 |
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage North High Neb High Neb | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★ Jeepers Creepers - mit Josephine Roper | 15m | |||||
Backlogs. Could not do the top move through the crack and cheated my way on the right side as people were getting impatient to jump on it
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage North High Neb High Neb Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5c | ★ High Neb Edge - mit Josephine Roper | 20m | |||||
Backlogs. Hard beginning
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HS 5a | ★★ Tango Buttress - mit Josephine Roper | 14m | |||||
Backlogs. Nice climb for refreshing gear placements
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Anglesey | |||||||
Gogarth South Stack Castell Helen | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Lighthouse Arete Direct | 75m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Led first pitch. First seacliff. First rap in climb.. Epic
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage North High Neb High Neb | |||||||
S 4b | ★ Cave Buttress | 15m | ★ Gut | ||||
Trying to get my trad face climbing up a bit… was scary at one point
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E1 5b | ★★ Jeepers Creepers - mit cedric | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun few moves through roof. Well protected. Could do it with a plan I think
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage North High Neb High Neb Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5c | ★ High Neb Edge - mit Raphael Falque | 20m | ★ Gut | ||||
Start seemed 22+ to us! Gave up and climbed the arete coz I was getting pulled sideways by the toprope but still hitting the ground on stretch. Gets HVS 5c on ukc which makes more sense.
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HS 5a | ★★ Tango Buttress - mit Raphael Falque | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Looked like a pretty scary lead to me but Raphael didn’t seem too bothered. Slab with shallow breaks…
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VD | ★ Tango Crack | 14m | ★ Gut | ||||
Actually the Diff ‘Tango Descent’ to the left, to take photos of this one
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HS 4c | ★★ Norse Corner Climb | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun start, a bit easier after that than expected
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Conwy | |||||||
Lower Pen Trwyn Statement of Youth | |||||||
7a+ ~7c | Night Glue | 22m | |||||
A crucial hold has broken near the top and is way harder now. Rest of it not too bad.
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Conwy | |||||||
Lower Pen Trwyn Under the Boardwalk | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Under the Boardwalk | 18m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
High first bolt! Placed a nut below it as a backup.
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Craig Cwm Glas Bach | |||||||
HVS 5b schwer schwer | ★★★ Spitting Image | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Really nice climbing. Reasonable placements. Bit pumpy.
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HVS 5a | ★ Espasmos | ★ Gut | |||||
Not many gear placements, but also pretty easy. Felt a bit free solo-y at the top there.
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Subluminal | |||||||
S 4a | ★ Birds Nest | ||||||
Looked improbable for the grade, but everything is there when you need it. Protection, holds, you name it, you can find it.
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S 4b | ★ First Corner | 14m | |||||
Definitely harder than second corner. Slippery up high.
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Plantation Unconquerables to Namenlos Area The Unconquerables | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★★ The Left Unconquerable | 17m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
pumped out trying to place gear in the crux, sat before it, then sat on it just to be sure it was good before continuing. need to either know the moves, know the gear, or climb with a bit of commitment, and I am 0/3 of these things.
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Black slab | |||||||
HS 4b | ★★ April Crack | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
nice, start is fun. though very tame with big cams.
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Flying Buttress | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
ballsed up the long move into the roof and went for an assisted haul rather than lower to the slab and try again. After that it's not too bad
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Inverted V | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Straight Crack | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
roofy bit is great. got a bit terrified on a face section that isn't mentioned in the guidebook - possibly people used to stay in the chimney but the tree has grown. there is gear just before the move but I had skipped it in a moment of overconfidence. And for tall people there's not really a move at all.
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HS 4a | ★★ Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct | 23m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
our first route, a bit easy
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HVS 5b schwer | ★★ Good Friday | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
extremely difficult move for the short!
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Fr 26. Mai 2023 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Dinorwic Quarries Serengeti Peter Pan Wall | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Peter Pan | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Nice climb. Weird feet (no feet on the right, lots of feet on the left).
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Fr 26. Mai 2023 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Dinorwic Quarries Serengeti Seamstress Slab | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Y Gwaedlyd | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Saw someone else attempt (& fail) beforehand so can't claim the onsight.
Think would have managed the onsight fine though as the flash was pretty chill. |
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Mi 24. Mai 2023 - North East Outcrops & Angus | |||||||
Angus Rob's Reed Size isn't Everything | |||||||
6c+ | Get Shorty! | 7m | |||||
Another brutal Rob's Reed start.
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So 21. Mai 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
6a+ schwer | ★★ Oops upside your head | 14m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
felt pretty pushy for the grade but I was also quite dehydrated after a day of trad in the sun!
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VS 4c | ★★ Swallow's Nest | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Led P1, thin but very nice moves
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HS 4b | ★ Moth | ★ Gut | |||||
Led P1
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So 21. Mai 2023 - Kent | |||||||
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks What Crisis? | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Stupid Effort | 9m | |||||
Also did:
Bloody subday
Small chimney
Good friday (fail)
Small wall
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Sa 20. Mai 2023 - Shropshire | |||||||
Llanymynech Quarry Cul-De-Sac Quarry | |||||||
6a | ★ Dream of White Horses, Not | 15m | ★ Gut | ||||
bolts are hard to spot
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Sa 20. Mai 2023 - Shropshire | |||||||
Llanymynech Quarry Grid Iron Wall | |||||||
6a | ★ 49 and Counting | ★ Gut | |||||
aight
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Sa 20. Mai 2023 - Portland | |||||||
Blacknor South Sacred Angel Area | |||||||
5b | ★ Do Ixtlan | ||||||
5b on rockfax.
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5a | ★ Well Done Poppet | 10m | |||||
It's 5c on rock fax.
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Mi 17. Mai 2023 - Burbage Valley | |||||||
Burbage South The North Quarry | |||||||
E2 5b | ★★★ Zeus | 12m | |||||
Probably my hardest trad onsite to date, almost dropped it at the top with the slopey topout. Proud I held it together. Funny that the crag translates this English E2 5b as 5b ish French, probably more like 6b+/c with tricky gear in the crux section, no good rest, and an unforgiving topout.
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Di 16. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Balcony Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5a leicht | ★★ Agony Crack | 11m | |||||
Easy, was not in agony, haha.
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Di 16. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Heaven Crack | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Hell Crack - mit Ian | 13m | |||||
Got spit off this years ago..easy handjamming now, wtf!
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Di 16. Mai 2023 - North East Outcrops & Angus | |||||||
Angus Rob's Reed Main Wall Left | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Grand Theft Auto | 12m | ★ Gut | ||||
2nd go.
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Di 16. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Flying Buttress | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | |||||
Took photos of Lukáš's attempt, he cleaned it, and I had a fun romp to the top
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Di 16. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Tippler Buttress | |||||||
E3 6a | ★★★ Tippler Direct | 16m | |||||
Chickened out a few days ago, wasted too much energy trying to get the gear how I wanted it. So didn't even attempt the crux. Today went up, put in the gear, downclimbed, rested, and went through the crux first go.
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E2 5c | ★★ The Dangler - mit Jakub Lacina, Lukas Lacina | 16m | |||||
Flash after Kuba ať sundown, just pulled the rope and left the gear in the roof for the sake of getting home for dinner.
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Tippler Buttress | |||||||
E2 5c | ★★ The Dangler — 3 Versuche - mit Ian | 16m | ★ Gut | ||||
Tough if you make it that way..Ian cruised it! fell off it in the morning, gave it two other goes in the evening..
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Lawrencefield Quarry | |||||||
The Pool | |||||||
E2 5c | ★★★ Billy Whizz - mit Ian | 18m | ★ Gut | ||||
Didn't like it as much as I thought I was going to..slippery crack
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E2 5c | ★★★ Suspense - mit Lukas Lacina, Ian | 20m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
the best route of the trip! small gear, small holds, good rests..this will defo stay in my memory
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | |||||||
Tirpentwys Main Wall | |||||||
6a+ | The Brown Dirt Cowboy - mit DavidB | ||||||
Pumpy and sustained, I thought I was coming off but just kept flailing away and stayed on!
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Cardiff and Newport crags | |||||||
Tirpentwys The Left Wall | |||||||
5b | ★★ By Default Line - mit DavidB | ||||||
At Stanage it would get V Diff! Good fun.
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Green Death | |||||||
E3 5b ~E2 | ★★★ Great West Road | 34m | |||||
only did the first pitch = E2 5b, powerful laybacking
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Keyhole Cave | |||||||
E2 5c | ★★★ Regent Street | 22m | |||||
Damn, not an easy one, going for the final chuck, my finger got righteously stuck in the crack, after struggling to get it out there was only enough power left for a half hearted lunge for the top of the crack. So close.
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E4 6b | ★★ Coventry Street | 22m | |||||
Cool moves getting to the cave, hard and powerful.
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
London Wall | |||||||
E5 6a | ★★★ London Wall | 22m | |||||
Wow, world class route, fun experience, need to improve at finger cracks if I wanna come back and get this done.
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Mo 15. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
The Embankment | |||||||
E3 5c ~E2 | ★★★ Time For Tea | 20m | |||||
Eh, I wanted to go for the version direct to the tree, but chickened out, the version mentioned in the BMC guide to finish towards embankment 3 felt a bit more secure, so there I went. I'd not take E3 for this version as it was a cop-out.
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So 14. Mai 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Winspit Quarryman's Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Queen Anne's Men — 2 Versuche | 20m, 4 | |||||
Finally came back to finish this route 5 years after first trying it.
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So 14. Mai 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Winspit South Face | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Gorilla Tactics — 2 Versuche | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Really amazing route with juggy holds in all the right places. Loved every second. Went second go.
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Sa 13. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Hollybush Crack | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Queersville - mit luke | 15m | ★ Gut | ||||
Would not want to lead this props to Luke!
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Sa 13. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Plantation Unconquerables to Namenlos Area The Unconquerables | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★ The Little Unconquerable - mit luke | 12m | Durchschnitt | ||||
not too interesting
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Sa 13. Mai 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Subluminal | |||||||
HVS 5a | Freda Direct - mit Alex | ||||||
HVS variation. Fell in the middle, then finished clean.
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VS 5a | ★★ Freda - mit Alex | 14m | |||||
VS variation. Slipped at the opening moves.
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S 4a | ★★ Second Corner - mit Alex | 14m | |||||
Actually felt easier than double chock stone
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HVD | Double Chockstone - mit Alex | 14m | |||||
Loved the climb, but it felt insecure in the chimney.
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Sa 13. Mai 2023 - Queen's Crag | |||||||
7B | ★★★ Worldline | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Brilliant introduction to British bouldering!
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Sa 13. Mai 2023 - Central Highlands | |||||||
Dunkeld Area Craig a Barns (Polney Crag) Myopic Buttress | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Vibe Heads | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First 7b+. Took a few sessions and maybe 4-5 RP attempts. Didn't inspire me at first, but got hooked fairly quickly. Beta intensive.
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Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
The Embankment | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 4 - mit Ian | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Last of the Emb. I had yet to climb...yaay!:) climbs well
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E3 5c | ★★★ Time For Tea - mit Ian | 20m | |||||
I had some beta from Ian but was still gripped AF...tough crack and tricky moves on the runout part
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Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Cioch Bay | |||||||
HVS 5b | ★★ Supra Direct - mit luke | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Stiff getting over the overhang, climbs better than it looks!
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Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Keyhole Cave | |||||||
E2 5c | ★★★ Regent Street - mit Ian | 22m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
fell off the crux got too comfortable:D gutted! but such an amazing route!
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HVS 5b | ★ The Whore | Durchschnitt | |||||
Meh
|
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Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Great North Road | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great North Road | 35m | |||||
Had a bit of a marathon on this one.
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Do 11. Mai 2023 - Higgar Tor | |||||||
The Leaning Block | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★★ The File - mit Ian, Lukas Lacina | 15m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Compulsory lap
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E2 5b | ★★★ The Rasp - mit Ian, Lukas Lacina | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
The topout was wet, fell off while getting rained on...oh well gotta get better at the steep stuff!
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Mi 10. Mai 2023 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Plantation Goliath's Groove | |||||||
E1 5b | ★ Death and Night and Blood - mit Lukas Lacina, Jakub Lacina | 18m | |||||
Nearly shit my pants on this one!
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Di 9. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
Great North Road | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great North Road - mit Ian | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Downclimbed from the crux years ago, short stiff layback moves, otherwise easy
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Di 9. Mai 2023 - Millstone Edge | |||||||
The Embankment | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 3 - mit Ian, Lukas Lacina | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
The best of the embankments? Fell off it years ago on the OS, cruised right up it this time! Awesome seeing the progress without really not doing much trad recently!
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VS 4c | ★★ Embankment 2 | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
My first trad lead years ago!:)
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Di 9. Mai 2023 - Central Highlands | |||||||
Weem Crag Main Sport Sector | |||||||
7b | ★★★ The Screaming Weem — 2 Versuche | 22m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
2nd go.
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So 7. Mai 2023 - Portland | |||||||
Battleship Battleship Back Cliff The Back Cliff | |||||||
7b+ schwer | ★★★ Zinc Oxide Mountain | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
First try in a year. Need to come back for a proper weekend on it & should be able to send it 🤞
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So 7. Mai 2023 - Other Avon Crags | |||||||
Uphill Quarry The Pedestal Face | |||||||
E5 ~7b | ★★★ Living Dead — 2 Versuche | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
2nd try - 7b sport route
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Fr 5. Mai 2023 - West Highlands | |||||||
Glen Nevis Polldubh Repton Buttress | |||||||
VS 4c schwer schwer | ★ Sprauchle | 30m | ★ Gut | ||||
very run out start but steady climbing
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Do 4. Mai 2023 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
Bulging Flies - mit Shunt | |||||||
Replaced threads. Jamming feels better. Crux move still a stopper.
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Mo 1. Mai 2023 - Swanage | |||||||
Winspit Quarryman's Wall | |||||||
3+ | ★ Tom's Patience — 5 Versuche | 12m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Second visit on this.still working on it.bit short for it.
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Mo 1. Mai 2023 - Birchen Edge | |||||||
Tar's Wall & Barbette Buttress | |||||||
VD ~VS | Cannonball Wall - mit Eszter | 10m | |||||
Direct start. The grade is correct if you start on the left.
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Sa 29. Apr 2023 - Anglesey | |||||||
Gogarth North Stack Wen Zawn | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★★ A Dream of White Horses - mit Rowan H | 150m | |||||
Lead linked 1 and 2
|
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HVS 4c | ★★ Britomartis - mit Rowan H | 58m | |||||
Lead pitch 1
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Sa 29. Apr 2023 - Other Avon Crags | |||||||
Uphill Quarry The Pedestal Face | |||||||
6c | Chimes From The Grave | ||||||
Climbing with the back 2 fingers... Spice!
|
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E5 | ★★★ Living Dead — 2 Versuche | ||||||
Went for the 8 finger send... Denied
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Sa 29. Apr 2023 - Portland | |||||||
Blacknor North Wolfgang Forever Area | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ For Love and Liberty | 21m | |||||
gave this a quick shot as some guys had left the draws in. really fun and hard climbing as expected but really enjoyed the sequence. will maybe come back to work on this at some point. fingers are wrecked !
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Di 25. Apr 2023 - Portland | |||||||
Blacknor South Sacred Angel Area | |||||||
7b | ★ Southern Twist | 16m | |||||
top roped clean x2 then sent on first lead attempt - total 6 attempts including first 3 working attempts
|
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Mi 19. Apr 2023 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
HVS 5a ~5b | ★★ Birdlime Traverse - mit Leslie Ward | 19m | |||||
E1 5b
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Mi 19. Apr 2023 - Kent | |||||||
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks Long Layback Area | |||||||
3b | ★ Dark Chimney | 10m | ★ Gut | ||||
nice
|
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7a | ★★ The Flakes | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
super cool, desperate at the top
|
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6a+ | ★★ Long Layback | 8m | ★ Gut | ||||
some nice jams up the crack if you choose to use them
|
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7a | ★★★ Hangover 3 | 8m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
super awesome, feels like a gym route!
|