Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Upper Tier | |||||
HS UKT:4a | Reset Portion of Gallery 37
Erstbegehung: Geoff Sutton, 1958 | 12m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Runnner Route
Erstbegehung: Nat Allen & D Campbell, 1955 | 11m | |||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Damascus Crack
Erstbegehung: G W S Pigott & W H Craster, 1955 | 12m | |||
HS UKT:4a | Joe Public
Erstbegehung: Dave Jones, 1978 | 18m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Tealeaf Crack
Erstbegehung: 1957 | 12m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Black and Tans
1
S 4a
12m
2
3c
18m
A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves Erstbegehung: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922 | 30m, 2 | |||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★ Black Velvet
Start at the holly. Swing left on to a ledge, then move left again to climb a corner leading to a roof. Sumount this and continue up an easier finishing crack. Erstbegehung: 1957 | 27m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Hollybush Crack
Bridge anxiously up above the holly until a difficult step can be made right to a wide crack. Follow this to the top. Erstbegehung: traditional | 26m | |||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Technical Slab
Erstbegehung: A Bowden Black, 1945 | 24m | |||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★★ Pedestal Route
1
HVD 4a
12m
2
3c
15m
Erstbegehung: Morley Wood, 1922 | 27m, 2 | |||
VS UKT:4a | ★★ Central Route
The fine slab to the right of the huge pedestal is bold. Erstbegehung: 1913 | 16m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Kelly's Shelf
Erstbegehung: Harry Kelly 1924 - 49 | 17m | |||
VD UKT:4a | Easy Gully Wall
Erstbegehung: unknown 1957 - 68 | 21m | |||
S UKT:4a | Hangman's Crack
Erstbegehung: G W S Pigott & C Topping, 1949 | 11m | |||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Left-Hand Route
Erstbegehung: Lindlay Henshaw, 1924 | 14m | |||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Dorothy's Dilemma | |||||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★ Yong
The mild jamming crack has good hidden layaway holds. Western Grit's answer to Froggatt's renowned Heather Wall. | 10m | |||
S UKT:4a | Cannonball Crack | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Valkyrie Area | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Via Dolorosa Variations
Starts on the higher ledge to the right and finishes up the dark and slippery Raven Rock Gully. Best split into 2 pitches otherwise rope drag may be a problem. | 2 | |||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Elegy Slab | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★ Fledgling's climb | 13m | |||
HS UKT:4a | Wing Wing
Between Fledgling's Climb and Little Chimney. | 9m | |||
S UKT:4a | Lucas Chimney
The narrow rift in the main angle is a well-protected struggle and the leftward exit is a pig; the best advice is to try staying high. Often green early in the season or after rain, in which case it is worthy of a manky HS 4c. | 10m | |||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress | |||||
HS UKT:4a | Straight Crack
Bridge the leaning corner (without pushing too hard on the flake) and then step left to reach the rectilinear fissure, thankfully above the wide and potentially awkward lower section. | 10m | |||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier | |||||
{FR} 3+ | Problem 4 | ||||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Yong | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder A | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Gentle Slab | 3m | |||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder B | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Slabby Seam | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder D | |||||
{FB} 3+ | ★ Poxy | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder E | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Problem 24
arête on R side | ||||
{FB} 3+ | Mantel | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder F | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Flakes | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder G | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Ledgy Arête | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Lower Tier Boulders Boulder A | |||||
{FB} 3+ | The Chips | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Lower Tier Boulders Boulder D | |||||
{FB} 3+ | ★★ Left Line | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Upper Tier Boulders | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Problem 7
one boulder, many options | ||||
{FB} 3+ | Don's Arête | ||||
{FB} 3+ | ★ Easy Groove | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Great Slab Area | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Popper | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Attic | |||||
{FB} 3+ | ★ Scrack | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Cube | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Cube Crack | ||||
{FB} 3+ | ★ K2 | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Roaches Skyline | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Chipped Wall | ||||
{FB} 3+ | Easy Arête | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Far Skyline Art Nouveau Boulders | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Problem 14
crack | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire Newstones Hazel Barn Buttress | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★ Hazel Barrow Crack
Climb the juggy groove to bulges which are passed by moving leftwards. | ||||
Midlands Staffordshire Newstones Scratch / Rhynose Buttress | |||||
{FB} 3+ | Jam Crack | ||||
S UKT:4a | Candy Man
Climb rightwards up the front of the buttress over a series of bulges on the large perched flakes. | 8m | |||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Grimley's Rock | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Grimley's Groove
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Hidden Wall | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Orinoco
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Pirate Block | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | The Ramp Direct
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Warthog Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Little Slab
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Hobgoblin | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Hob Pocket
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Rare Slab | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Rare Slab
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Cracked Boulder | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Mossy Slab
| ||||
Midlands Cademan Wood and Broad Hill Pinnacle Crag | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Up The Junction
| ||||
Midlands Granitethorpe Quarry | |||||
S UKT:4a | The Weatherman | ||||
S UKT:4a | Straight Up | ||||
Midlands High Sharpley Flake Crag | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Thin Finger | ||||
Midlands Ratchet Hill Red And Black | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Red Faced Punter | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Too Much Chutney | ||||
Midlands Blackbrook Reservoir | |||||
VB FB:4C | Bigger Splash | ||||
Midlands Oaks Pinnacle Isolated Pinnacle | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Right Face | ||||
Midlands Bardon Hill The Fence | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Iron Eyes Cody | ||||
Midlands The Outwoods Main Wall | |||||
S UKT:4a | VC Bob | 9m | |||
Midlands Mountsorrel Crags Memorial Crag | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Slab and Arête | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Left Edge | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Right Arête | ||||
Midlands Mountsorrel Crags Castle Crag | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Up Over | ||||
Midlands Anchor Church Caves | |||||
S UKT:4a | Pillar of Wisdom | ||||
S UKT:4a | Doorway | 8m | |||
Midlands Carver's Rocks | |||||
S UKT:4a | SP 1880 | 9m | |||
Midlands Pleasley Vale Frog Buttress | |||||
HVD UKT:4a | Scout Crack | 12m | |||
HVD UKT:4a | Frog Spawn | 13m | |||
S UKT:4a | Toadpole | ||||
HVD UKT:4a | Toad Wall | ||||
HS UKT:4a | Make It Snappy | ||||
HVD UKT:4a | Crocodile Corner | ||||
HVD UKT:4a | Crocodile Corner Arete | ||||
S UKT:4a | Forever Amber | ||||
S UKT:4a | Amber Block | ||||
Midlands Pleasley Vale White Wall | |||||
HVD UKT:4a | Hang About | 4m | |||
HS UKT:4a | White Wall | ||||
S UKT:4a | Nick's Nick | ||||
HS UKT:4a | Bobbin | ||||
Midlands Pleasley Vale The Turret | |||||
S UKT:4a | Wandering Wolverine | ||||
HVD UKT:4a | Tensing Stretch | 12m | |||
Midlands Pleasley Vale Monks Wall | |||||
HVD UKT:4a | Funnel | ||||
Midlands Pleasley Vale Green Wall | |||||
HS UKT:4a | Green Wall | 11m | |||
HS UKT:4a | Rose Arete | ||||
Midlands Pleasley Park Quarry | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Simple Simon | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Key Board Warrior | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Big Boots | ||||
FB_ALT:3+ | Electron | ||||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Upper Walls | |||||
FB_ALT:3+ | FOMO
Up and right of the slot. | ||||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Central Section | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Sleepwalk | 63m, 4 | |||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Idleburger Buttress Area | |||||
HS UKT:4a | Tigger
A direct route through the wandering line of Idleburger Buttress. Climb straight up and then to the left of the obvious roof where Idleburger Buttress goes right. | 25m | |||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Morning Slab | |||||
S UKT:4a | Dawn's Walk | 3 | |||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Evening Wall | |||||
VS UKT:4a | Boilerplate Rib | 18m | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Direct Route
A well-travelled line up the slab and corner in the centre of Evening Wall. Start at the left side of the slab where it abuts a steep wall. Make a bouldery move over the low overhang to get established on the slab. Climb the polished slab, with a move right to runners in a thin horizontal crack halfway. Gain a ledge at the base of the steeper upper corner. Follow the corner to an exit on the left. A variation finish up the wall and overhang right of the final corner is also worthwhile. | 27m | |||
S UKT:4a | Direct Finish
Alternative route off lunchtime ledge to Direct Route. | ||||
South-West England Somerset Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Central Buttress | |||||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Central Gully
Rockfax Description Popular and often climbed but care is needed with the route finding. Start 4m left of the Central Rib belay at some short walls leading to a big grassy/vegetated ledge.
| 80m, 3 |